jayrob98

Alright here is the deal. I have a 98 T/A bone stock LS1 with about 74,000 well maintained miles, still under extended warranty till 100,000. I went out to start it one evening and the "check gauges" light illuminated and I glanced at the cluster to see 0psi on the oil pressure. I turned it off and popped the hood. Checked the oil and it looked fine, it was just changed about 1000 miles previous. All other fluid levels were within normal limits. I was hoping it was just the sensor or sending unit so I went and started it up again about 15 secs later at idle I heard a knocking in the top end...duh no oil. Called and had it towed to the dealer. They currently have it tore apart right now and are awaiting a GM adjuster to come and decide what to do. I have been so busy with school I have not been able to go talk to the mechanic but the service manager said the bearings were "spun", the cam was damaged and they were wanting to replace the engine???? Any tips on what I should do or look for. Thanks

Jay Rob

AL SS590 M6

Well heck it's too late to look for anything now. You already ruined the motor. Why on earth did you start it back up with no oil pressure? It was probably just the oil pump. Sometimes the pressure relief valve sticks open and all of the oil dumps back to the pan. Just hope for a new long block that runs good.

thom1

apparently the 98 LS1 tends to lose it's oil pump without warning. I hear a lot of people losing them. I lost mine.

I'm about half done replacing mine. 98 SS 40k miles

JeffHooke

When the oil pump goes how much warning does it give you if any? Does it leave you by the side of the road or can you notice it start to go bad then replace it?

AL SS590 M6

When it sticks open you just have a few seconds to react to save the motor. Most don't react fast enough because you can't drive and watch your gages constantly.

camaro322hp

if dealer decides to go the "new motor" route, ask how much it would cost you to upgrade to the almighty LS6

mebanditws6

If he has the M6 that'd be a great option, but he'd need to build up the auto to handle the 400hp or maybe get good 10 passes at most from the stock 4L60E until the bands give up.

Jason

jayrob98

After several phone calls to the GMPP warranty dept and daily visits to the dealer, 3wks later GM has finally authorized the dealer to drop a new LS1 long block in my T/A. Now I am curious as to what I should look for when they put the new engine in. Has anyone had their engine replaced. This is a new (not remanufactured) engine. What is the proper way to break it in and what actually will they use from my old engine? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

Jay Rob

mebanditws6

Allow 1,000 miles for the break in. Don't take it over 3k rpm for the first 500. When you drive vary your speed even on the interstate (don't use cruise control). After 500 miles, you can take the motor to around 4k. Use just a regular dino oil for break in. Change the oil at 500 miles to get some of the metal shavings out of the motor for good measure and put in dino oil until 1,000. Change it again at 1,000 and use synthetic if you want or whatever you prefer.

Yes this is kinda a long time, but it insures a good break in and will allow the rings to seat well.

Jason

ShayTal

so what do you guys think ? change the oil pump after 40K ? or wait untill it mulfunction and hope for the best ?

mebanditws6

GM fixed the oil pump issue for the 99 model year. You shouldn't have any problems with your brand new engine.

Jason

Bluntdogg

So the oil pump going out early was only a problem in the '98 model years? I've already destroyed one engine in a car, I can't afford to do it again.