I posted earlier about an SES code being thrown (basically was a misfire code). Took the car to the track on Sat to run it looking for some new bests due to installing the Hooker headers/y-pipe.

Well - they didnt come. My previous best was a 12.65 @ 112.8 mph with my average being in the mid/low 12.7's right around 112.x (average weather).

Saturday in decent weather I posted three mid-12.8 second runs with a best of 111.3 mph and one 12.71 sec at 111.8 mph. WTF?

I was very dissapointed - I was looking for a solid low-12.6 run at least if not into the 12.5's at around 113-114mph. Wasnt even close.

Well, we autotapped the car to check the O2 readings and I was extremely rich (.985's to even over 1.000!). I think that this is the reason my times sucked @ss (compared to what I was looking for).

This upcoming week (next week at latest) we are gonna throw the car on the dyno for a couple wideband runs and to play with the MAFT (just put back on the car) to lean the sucker out and get some power back.

My two questions are:

1) What settings are most appropriate and what have you guys had the most luck with (looking for your recomendation or suggestion) in cars with similar mods (see sig).

2) Would being this rich be the main culprit for the slower than expected ET's and traps speeds?

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks.

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2001 Camaro SS - NBM (M6)

Best 1/4: 12.65 at 112.8 (before CAI and 2nd cutout)
Best 60': 1.91 on F1's

Mods:

SLP CAI, SLP 85mm MAF, SLP Lid, ASP Pulleys, K&N Filter, B&M Ripper, 2 cutouts, Nitto 555R's

Future mods:

Hooker Headers (coated), Hooker Y-pipe, Lunatti B1 cam, Comp 918 springs/hardened pushrods, MAFT (or LS1 Edit)

 

yes, the extremely rich condition could be accounted for running slower ET's. as for a good setting...it all depends. *most* people set the maft rich at idle and lean at wot.

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1999 Camaro SS A4 Black/Black/Dark Gray w/ Torch Red Hood Scoop and Torch Red Rear Stripe... 3:23 || SLP Loudmouth || SLP AirBox Lid w/ K&N || SLP Bowtie Grille || SLP CAI || SLP SFC || SLP STB || AZP&S Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator w/ 3psi Boost || Sullivan Aluminum Racing Pedals || Yank ST3500 || B&M 24K Tranny Cooler || Jet-Hot Hooker LT Headers w/ ORY || Dual 3'' Summit Cutouts || Hypertech 160 T-Stat || SLP Fan Switch || MAF-Translator || 17 x 9.5 Aluminum Z06 Wheels || Nitto 555R's || Macewen White Faced Gauges w/ Red Dash Bulbs & White Shift Selector Overlays || Xenon Headlights.

Me <------- Saving EVERY PENNY from now (Aug. '02) until summer '03 to TURBOCHARGE the SS!!

 

It's not uncommon to have to tune before you will see your gains from LTs.

Don't worry about your MAFT settings until you get on the wideband. Every car is different. Just tune yourself in to about a 12.9 to 13.0 range.

Good Luck

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'01 Mystic Teal Z28
A4/3.73
Mods List Here

12.12/112.81/1.70 60'
325 rwhp/341 rwtq
www.MysticZ28.com

NorCal LS1/LT1

"To play it safe is not to play"

 

The rich condition will cause the slower ET's. As far as recommendations, post or email me you LTrims and 02's and I'll give it a shot. As far as tuning on a wideband, I tried this weekend and it doesn't work that well because of the SLP cold air or the FTRA that I have. My car was dialed in for the street and I would still get a little KR in 4th in the warmer weather as my 02's would get in the .855-.865 range down from .890-.900 range in 1st gear. On the dyno the car was running 12.2. I had to lean it out to 6% at WOT to get the dyno #'s, but the car will not run that on the street due to the FTRA sending extra air in and leaning me out at speed. It is a big guessing game. I hope you get the car running good and post some good gains from the Hookers, as I have them on the way.

John

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2002 NBM SS #1845. MN6, Nuetral leather, and T-tops. SLP options- SS Grill, SS Floormats, and SS Rear Deck Mat. Show and Go- SLP Y Pipe, Flowtech Cutout, B&B Triflow Quad tip, FTRA, Direct Flow lid, Holley PowerShot, Thunder Racing MAF Ends, MAFT, ASP Pulley, NGK's, B&M Ripper, TA Rear Girdle, TA Stud Kit, !CAGS, BMR STB, Granatelli SFC's, Chrome Z06's, Clear Corners, Silver Guages W/SS Emblems, and 5% tint.

Dyno #'s- 338 rwhp and 347 rwtq

Hooker LT's and Off Road Y Pipe on order!

 

So basically you have to detune the car in order to get the FTRA to work. What's the point of using an FTRA then??

You give up hp in the lower gears, so that the FTRA will work at higher speeds ... but the FTRA, at speed, is probably only making up for the hp you sacrificed to get it to work anyway.

Just out of curosity what was your hp at 12.2 AF/R and when you had adjusted to 6% lean with the MAFT??



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'01 Mystic Teal Z28
A4/3.73
Mods List Here

12.12/112.81/1.70 60'
325 rwhp/341 rwtq
www.MysticZ28.com

NorCal LS1/LT1

"To play it safe is not to play"