Greed4Speed

I'm guessing there aren't any modded LS1's in your area. Any idea what your ET is?


You know, I always hear about how the LS1 is only faster because of better heads and intake. Well, there is more to it. I think rod to crank ratio makes a difference too.
I remember when I was helping a co-worker wrench on his dirt track car how the 6.0 rodded 350s would run off and leave the 5.7" rodded 350s.

The LS1 has 6.1" rods, did the LT1 keep the old SBC 5.7" size?

slomarao

im not saying your wrong but the power is made with the top end of the motor. The heads, intake, 1.7rr, and lid design cai are the major players i think.
The lower end makes a difference but i dont think its a major power area.

Greed4Speed

I agree most of the power difference is up top.

I'm just saying there is more to consider than just heads and intake.

PoorMan

LT1's rule.

Kredz28

Lets not forget that the majority of stock LS1's will dyno 300 rwhp stock. My 93 Z (at the time) had intake, mac mids, 1.6 rockers, and a magnaflow and it made 282 rwhp. We all know what the benefits of the ls1 are, but most of us will agree that its cheaper to build an LT1 car, so pick your poison.

mitchleftwich

To answer the guys question about the gears, etc.

My 94 was an auto with 3.42

My 99 is a stick with 3.42 I was told, but have not seen.

I am hoping the good news is that my ls1 just needed some TLC. I pulled the plugs and the previous owner had put in crap champions that were shot to hell (electroids gone). The fuel filter was loaded with junk, and I have found a few other areas.

After killing myself to get the plugs changed this weekend and have yet to install #8 in the morning, I will be excited to see the change the tune has made.

I do beleive the top end of this car is stronger then my LT1. I went to pass someone on the highway the other day at around 60 mph. I dropped it into 3rd and nailed it and was suprised how fast it took off and got to 90 mph.

Bottom line, after reading all these replys on my original post I stick to what I said. My LT1 felt stronger on the bottom end where I tend to drive. Now tomorrow, I may see the light hehehe.

Thanks guys.

slingshot

I really like my 93, but one of the reasons I bought it was because of the price. I got mine at a really good price with 81,000 miles, and nice ls1s are still pretty expensive for a college student I have beaten an ls1, but I also have a few boltons

Greed4Speed

You may notice a nice difference with a fresh filter. Mine was going way lean on the passenger side because of a dirty fuel filter. The filter wasn't that old either, just got some junky fuel somewhere.

And yes, fresh plugs will make a nice difference too. While you're at it, clean the MAF and try running some seafoam through your top end.

You're trying to get to #8 plug from below right?

mitchleftwich

I got the #8 in today and finished buttoning up everything else.

To answer your question: I got to #8 from the top after sliding the coils pack out of the way, laying up on the engine and doing it by brail hehehe.

I also installed a SLP Lid and K&N I got off ebay.

She started right up, and once it warmed up and the idle dropped I noticed the slight vibe at idle was gone as well as the fluctuation. Also before when I would rev it up I would get a slight pop out of the exhaust and that is now gone.

Took it for a test drive and did not really notice any power diff. Right off the bat I'm like what is the new noise? Then I figured out it was the new lid making the noise. I could of lived without that hehehe.

So no diff in power that I could really tell, but what I was after did get done.

Thanks guys.

Greed4Speed

On those coil packs if you leave the rear bolts that are hard to reach off, then it'll be easier to remove next time.

robb4964

I dont think its cheaper to build an LT1 at all.

A cam only LS1 with a good tune can out run most head/cam LT1's with a fraction of the work and cost.

Headers cost about the same

LS1 heads are cheaper no that you would need them.

cams are close to the same price but with LS1's stock RR's are fine

Pushrods cost about the same

Labor should be cheaper for LS1's cause it is MUCH easier to do anything to them.

Headers on LS1=cake
Headers on LT1= pain in the ***

Cam in LS1=cake
cam in LT1=pain in the ***

I dont know why everyone keeps saying it cost more to build an LS1. The only thing that cost more is the initial purchase of the vehicle and even that is becoming less of an issue.

red_94z

I agree LS1=better in every way(cheaper easier blah blah). I also agree the LT1 feels much faster down low. which is why i love driving mine around all the time

MERRY CHRISTMAS

ptown

I second the above post.

Merry Christmas all.

AL SS590 M6

Or you can slot the rear bolt hole so that all you need do is to loosen the bolt to remove the coil pack. Lessens the chance of vibrations caused by the bolt being gone.

darrens99formul

I used to drive a stock 95 A4 Z28. It was a lot of fun around town and ran 14.2 @ 97 in the quarter mile.

Then I bought a stock 99 Formula and it also was a lot of fun around town. It ran 13.5 @ 103 in the quarter mile (same track and similair 60').

I felt like the LT1 had an edge around town due to all the low end torque. But I was later proven wrong. The 95 Z28 was sold to a friend of mine who raced me in the 99 Formula. We did a 0-80. We were neck and neck through first (0-40) and I started pulling in second.

So in the end my butt dyno was wrong. My LS1 ran .7 quicker and 6 mph faster in the quarter and could stay side by side with my old LT1 0-40. I have been very happy and very impressed with the LS1 ever since. Get your plugs and fuel filter replaced and hopefully you'll have as much fun and success as I have had.

Good luck.