yea i know that, but i dont see how this would not help me at all, sure stock ends are good for more. but im sure i gained a little out of these.

 

I really doubt that they helped make power. But they do screw up your ability to get the tune calibration right.

 

k well ill swap em out, see if that helps

 

if you like the way the aftermarket maf ends look, just get some high temp engine paint and spray a couple coats on the ends, be sure to tape off the inside though. then sell your expensive aftermarket ones to someone who doesnt know any better

 

The MAF is designed with a screen and a patricular airflow profile in mind. its got electronics to kill airflow noise. In the PCM there is also some filtering done both on the hardware side and digitally in the code to condition the signal. When you modify the MAF you skew all of those filtering strategys. This will cuase massive trouble. Add a good flowing lid and a large camshaft and it gets worse becuase you have alot more wave action taking place in the intake tract due to camshaft reversion etc. the stock ends flow well enough to make 420rwhp on our really stingy in house dyno. Trust me they aren't a restriction. If you feel your MAf is holding you back get a 5pin 85MM MAF conversion setup from someplace like SLP etc.

 

My stock MAF is good for 471 rwhp.

 

k ive been playing with the Iac table in ls1 edit. it helped a bit, but im still getting some brutal idle problems. as i approach a light say i put the car into neutral it will drop to 450-500 rpm and i have to tap the throttle a couple times for it to pick back up, then it drops back down. it takes anywhere from 3-10 seconds for the computer to correct itself

anyways i was looking in the tables in ls1 edit, there is a table called "idle air"
in this there are 2 rows, "in gear" and "neutral" my in gear tab all seems normal, but the Neutral row every box is set to "0" so i dont know if this is contributing to the problem, if this was set to zero wouldnt that make the motor get no air at idle in neutral?


also, when it drops right down to 500 sometimes i can hear the airbox trying to suck a lot of air. it creates a loud enough vacuum for me to hear over my engine noise. not sure what this means?

 

Whats your idle set at btw?

 

900 or 950, and at colder temps i think i have it set to 1050

 

I just put a 224 cam in my wife's car, no hole drilling was needed. Car idles perfect. All I did was "speed density" tuning then I went back and tuned the maf. Runs perfect, no hole drilling needed.

 

what did u change in "speed density" and also to the maf settings?

 

anyone have any other suggestions? i still havn't drilled my tbody, im really leaning towards that way at this time tho. i dont know any other settings that would allow me to correct this problem.

 

Didn't I suggest drilling the TB 4 months ago?



Mike

 

yea i got kind of side tracked :P

my tuning software can't monitor the iac tables. so i dont know how big to drill it. and i kind of wanted to avoid drilling but i think it may come to that :P

 

What are your IAC's??

When I had the similar cam. I just moved the set screw for the TB to the top. And adjusted the air from there. Didn't have to drill.