Marc 85Z28

This will be the last time I chime in. That cam sensor DTC is most likely a phantom, as in, there is nothing really wrong with the sensor or the circuit. You've got a swapped in LS1 and who knows what PCM and harness. The PCM and crankshaft position sensor must be calibrated together, otherwise you will exhibit the symptoms you're experiencing. But if you like go ahead and put on some exhaust, some O2s, plug wires, new coils etc etc Check the cam timing and pull the heads. OR, try the crank position sensor variation relearn. Just try it, you may be surprised

The fuel pressure sensor code you're getting is because the PCM is not seeing a reading from a fuel tank pressure sensor (fuel tank vapor pressure), which is a part of the evaporative emissions system. That should have zero affect on anything other than a stored code.

Mike96z

Funny thing is Ive done everything here but pull the heads. Ive tried every single suggestion in this thread. I think your referring to pulling the fuse to relearn for the crank sensor but the car sits with the battery off, i let it idle for about 10 minutes, drive it around, nothing changes. Dont get me wrong, doing everything suggested has made the car run alittle better but its still not driveable, maybe Ill get a vid of me driving it down the street so you guys can see how it acts. As far as the PCM, the PCM, Wiring, and Sensors/Engine/Trans are all from a 98 SS, all came off the same exact car and were together as a package from the factory, I didnt use a PCM froma different car, so the sensor should have no problems being calibrated to the PCM.

Marc 85Z28

When I say crankshaft position sensor variance relearn, I mean just that. It's not something you can do by pulling a fuse. The relearn is a procedure that calibrates the crank sensor to the PCM. Only someone with a Tech II can perform this. It's at least worth a shot, and is much easier than further disassembling the engine. You're better off properly diagnosing the concern rather than throw parts at it.

I've seen very similar symptoms to yours on a few different vehicles; all had swapped in engines. Some came as a "dropout".

Mike96z

If its the sensor that came with the engine and the pcm and harness, why does it need to be recalibrated. thats like saying if I go buy a new sensor, I must pay someone to calibrate it, but in that case, you just install it and plug it in and nothing more is needed to be done. I am having someone come with a tuner, they are going to flash the pcm and put it back to stock, because I do not even know what its at rite now. They are also going to delete the EGR etc for me and do some diagnostics on it.

Marc 85Z28

The GM service manual says otherwise. So why ask for advice if you don't bother to listen?

Good luck to you!

Mike96z

I was just stating that with every car Ive owned and even other peoples cars that Ive worked on, replacing a senser, whether it be the crank or cam sensor, did not need any recalibration. Im not sure how to go about it nor do I know how much it costs. More information would be nice. I just dont see why it is a must, seems more like an option.

Mike96z

Im willing to give it a shot, as with anything that everyone posted. So how is the crank position sensor relearn done? does this go for the cam sensor? If you pull the battery does it reset this?

Mike96z

Umm. yea I found out that the cam sensor wasnt even plugged in. I hooked it up. The plug is what I believe went there. It was coming from the passenger side and was a very long wire that was separated with wire protector and had a 3 prong connector and I hooked it up but still popped and idles irregular. Im going to drive it around awhile and see if something changes. It does start up faster and should climb rpms quicker.

Mike96z

Did some research on the crank sensor relearn and its not needed unless it throws the code for this specific issue.

If a vehicle’s PCM is changed out, there is a chance the new PCM will contain incorrect information about how the CKP sensor reports its signal to the PCM. If the new PCM’s information is incorrect, and the PCM cannot self-correct it, it will set the P1336 Diagnostic Trouble Code and turn the SES light on. Aside from the annoying SES light, vehicle performance may be affected, and emissions systems may be compromised

Mike96z

MAP sensor is plugged up.

wrnchbndr

Without the cat and the auxilary air pump working with it wouldn't the pops be normal. I'm not an auto tuner by any means but have done quite a lot of custom exhaust work on highly tweeked bikes. Pops are just a fact of life on a system that dumps so close to the exhaust ports. When you added the rest of the exhaust system, without the cat and the air pump, you're gonna have a bit more unburned fuel until the car warms up and the pcm tweeks the mixture. I wouldn't worry about the pops at all but rather concentrate on getting the pcm to do its job via the O2 sensors

Mike96z

yea the pops were because of the cam sensor being unplugged, it doesnt pop anymore, when it gets really hot then the engine will pop alot. It got hot because the fans for some reason arent coming on.

Ironxcross

this is why i just sold my lt1 car and bought an ls1 car.

Mike96z

Umm. this is an LS1, not an LT1.

Mike96z

compression test numbers

Alright, here are the numbers, Im thinking I have a burnt valve or bent push rod or something maybe bent valve, it pops and backfires, alot of valvetrane noise on the passenger side. Not sure what compression should be but here it is.

#1 210
#3 220
#5 200
#7 210

#2 210
#4 180
#6 180
#8 (didnt do it, too hard, tried for an hour) guessing its around 200)

Let me know what anyone thinks of this. Help is appreciated.