A couple of things to try.

Add an extra heavy guage ground wire from the engine to the point where the battery is hooked to the frame.

Get a stock MAF and try that.

 

ill try all of this. thanks guys. i just put new plugs after header install but ill check them all over again and test resistance on the wires. IF anyone knows how much resistance (ohm) should be across the primary on the coils (A & D prongs) id really like to know so I can test them all.

 

Just tested the wires, from what I found, resistance should be around 351 ohms (6in ls1 wire). Here's what I found:

Cylinder
#1 - 392 Ohms
#3 - 398 Ohms
#5 - 394 Ohms
#7 - 400 Ohms

#2 - 393 Ohms
#4 - 390 Ohms

#6 - O.L. (Out of Limit most of the time) Initial reading was around 3,000 and I only got it to read this wire about 3 times in total out of the 30 times of trying. When it did test the other 2 times, it was 386 and 393.

#8 - 380-1700 Ohms was the range for this one, it was in range a couple times but most of the time it was way out of range, initial reading was 980 Ohms.

So what I concluded was that wires 6 and 8 are bad and probably firing only a couple times and causing it to back fire, ill replace those first to see what it helps. I will check plugs next, when they were new though the car acted the same.

I also tested one coil, it had no resistance, which is what I was told it should be.

 

Sounds like a couple wires may be bad. But it won't fix your problem. A bad wire will cause a misfire, not a backfire.

And ALL ignition coils have resistance. If they didn't, they wouldn't work.

 

i was told little to no resistance.

 

how do you feel about it being a bad timing set? my initial thought.

 

i misfire can lead to a backfire...Letting unburned fuel into exhaust where it is heated and then ignited= backfire...

Pull the 2 bad wires off and see if anything changes

 

thanks man.

 

replaced the faulty stock wires with MSD 8.5mm wires and i fired it up, didnt pop, could still hear it hesitate a little but I will test it for real tommorow, try to drive it and see what it does under load. I did get some smoke from the cylinder that had the bad wire and that says to me it wasnt even firing because i coated the headers and when you start a car for the first time after coating them they smoke a little. Well it was smoking from that cylinder. I still have a little work to do and well see how everything goes.

 

im going to check the timing chain. but i put MSd wires and after watching my vid again i just noticed only the passenger side is throwing flames........... and 6 & 8 had bad plug wires but it is still popping. What could I check for ...... may just be that side only.

 

Checking the timing chain certainly cannot hurt, but I don't think it will lead to anything. A timing chain and/or valve timing issue would be found on all cylinders, not just one bank. Maybe try a crank relearn while you're at it.

 

thanks. im suspecting bad coil on 6 & 8

 

Update. I replaced the coils but that didnt solve anything so sold the ones I bought for it. I put new plugs and new wires. I also checked the timing chain and all lines up. Still backfiring some and when I drive it, it seems like it doesnt wanna climb RPM's, like it struggles to do so. Well finally drove it about 1 or 2 blocks to the nearest autozone to get the codes read and here is what I found.

P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Low Voltage
P0452 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Low Voltage

2 other codes were present but are EGR and egr is being deleted. P0443/P0449

As far as the first two codes go, Im going to replace the Camshaft position sensor, thinking its the main problem. Not sure what the fuel tank pressure sensor has to do with anything and I think it should run fine without it correct?

I'm still going to check fuel pressure and compression in each cylinder and hopefully the cam sensor fixes it. If I have good fuel pressure and still have a bad fuel tank pressure sensor, should I replace it?

If all fails, heads are coming off and Im checking for bad valves.



Let me know what you guys think.

 

I believe the problem was stated accurately early on. It's too rich. Have you tried to reset the PCM by pulling the PCM/BAT fuse under the hood for 5~10 minutes? If you were driving around with open headers, the O2 sensors would have gone nuts and the PCM would have pushed the fuel trims way positive. If you drove around on it like this long enough, you probably fouled out a few plugs too. Just starting it up cold won't get rid of those fuel trims because the car has to run for 2~3 minutes and coolant temps have to be above 104*F before it'll go back into closed loop & start learning again.

Reset the PCM to get the fuel trims back to "0" and if that doesn't completely work, a plug swap may be necessary. I'd also inspect/clean the MAF while you're doing simple maintenance.

 

Im no longer running open headers, nor have I been driving it, the car has been sitting, and the plugs are fine. The car is throwing the camshaft position sensor code so Im going to start with what I know first, and that is that the cam sensor is most likely bad and would cause this condition. I have reset the PCM plenty of times, the car has been sitting with the battery unhooked. Also when turning it over you can hear a compression type sound as if there may be air trying to go back through the intake, which could be caused by a bent valve.