"Look about one third of the way down the page. K&N FPIK is a totally different animal. Big oblong filter. Not the same as SLP, FTRA, ect.
It has always been my opinion that a lid and SSRA will out perform the FPIK on the road and at the track."

Al, part of my response was incorrect you're right...the k&n pack is not really a cai....
but the part about the filter oil affecting the maf sensor is still pertinant to the topic.

sorry bout that

 

teke184, you are my hero.

"Type R Sticker"

 

i am to many....i try hard....


...like the fonz

 

What is wrong with shorties? I know longtubes are better.

 

I cant find the magazine right now. I'll look a little later but I thibk it might be at work. As soon as I find it I will post it. Later

 

Found it.......it was actually Super Chevy. May 2004 issue. The 3 guys they talked to were Brian Reese(cheif engineer at SLP), Greg Banish(owner of Detroit Speedworks) and Bill Strope(owner of Strope's Speed Shop).
DO's
Subframe Connectors: They say it should be first mod on any f-bod. Bigger the better.
Cold-Air Lid or K&N FIPK: All say a proven mod
Cat-back: Power and noise= good
Long Tubes: All say dont bother with shorties. 1.75 primaries with 3in collectors.
Upgrade Valvetrain: LS1's weak spot. If your going past 6k rpm, LS6 valves are lightweight and have sodium filled stems.
Watch Your Comp Ratio: Espescially with forced induction.
Be Careful with Pulleys: Some cause waterpump and alternator to turn slow.
Tourque Converter: Dont bother with low stalls, go with 3,300ish. Higher and have to recalibrate PCM.
Short Throw Shifter: Obvious
Ring and Pinion: 4.10 6sp and 3.73 auto. Gas mileage will be virtually unaffected.
Drag Radials: "On a stock car ?!?!?!? HELL YEAH. Traction is key.


DONT's
Port Your MAF: All say BAD. We all know the reasons.
Larger than Stock TB: Untill approaching 600hp dont bother
Go Nuts With Exhaust: LS1's like a little back pressure. Dont go with mufflerless catbacks and 4in pipping untill HUGE HP.
Platinum Plugs with Nitrous or SC: Tip can stay hot and cause pre detonation. NGK TRK for SC and NGK TR5 for NA
Delete Torque Managment Table or Disable Knock Protection: LS1edit can do this and KILL the tranny.
Invest in Intake Manifold: Until your at higher hp levels the gains aint worth it.
Use a 160 Therm Without Programming: Wont do anything.
Over Cam for a Blower: "They sound fast with more duration and overlap but, most boost goes out the tailpipe"
Use O2 sims Up Front: "Better off wiping out with tuning"
Neglect Fuel System: Injectors good past 450fwhp anything more than 525fwhp a MUST. Fuel pump could be upgraded past 450fwhp.

Take it for what it is. I am just posting a breif version from the article so dont get mad at me. Alot is stuff I think we all know.
www.detroitspeedworks.com
www.slponline.com
www.stropespeedshop.com

 

Awesome.

 

"Use a 160 Therm Without Programming: Wont do anything"

so when i'm cruising around with little traffic on a nice cool evening, and run into a mustang at a stop light...my water temp is around 170* (160stat) i won't see any gains untill my car reaches the 185* reset fan setting?

um....ok....

"Use O2 sims Up Front: "Better off wiping out with tuning""

don't they mean "rear" o2 sensors? fronts are VITAL to the cars ecm

 

I have done lots of mods on lt1 and ls1 cars.
Little stuff works but don't do a heck of a lot.I guess it adds up.
Little stuff is lid,ported tb,different mafs,ls6 intake,pulleys.The lid is likely the best most proven power increaser here.
Also you can clean maf wires with electrical contact cleaner or carefully with
alchohol.I use holley power shots now they are supposed to be sensor friendly.
Big impressive mods.Like was said..if auto especially with 2.73 get rid of those crappy things and put in 3.42 or possibly 3.73 if you are more hardcore.
For m6 cars go with 3.73 or 4.10.4.10 are generally not suggested if you are going for big power adders.

Stall converters work and work well.Most ls1 guys like 3200 range even on stock engines.Most lt1 guys like 2800 to 3000 on more stock engines.The lt1 seems to have more snap down low.So dont' seem to need as much converter.

Tires will help the car hook on the street..nitto drag radials are popular.I had so some but bought them used off buddy and they were flat spotted from sitting for a year plus.Heads up on them.I went back to street tires but thats because street tires are more fun..wheelspin is fun but the car is slower.
Thats ok..can make it fast at track with drag tires.

Now cam and headers probably give about equal gains.Heads give the biggist gains but are the most pricey of the NA ,normally aspirated mods.

Big mods..well these work and work well..You can go heads,cam,headers usually long tubes.
Or nitrous or superchargers or turbos.

And somewhere along the line tuning stuff especially after headers they usually make the ls1 run pig rich.

This stuff isn't rocket science..oh and there are diversions like stroker motors and stuff like that but generally for the bucks unless your current motor needs rebuilding a power adder will give you more than a stroker or bored out ls1.

 

It was DONT use front O2 simulators. You need the info that real O2 sensors give you. Than the guys said if it came to using front O2 sims that you should go in and edit these out with PCM programming. Just quoting what article said

 

So are the Electric Cut Outs bad?

 

No reason to not invest in a ported TB. Granted, don't waste your money on a $400 one, instead, get someone to port it for maybe $100.

I don't see anything wrong with deleting TM. In theory, it puts more strain on the tranny, but then again, the tranny doesn't slip anymore afterwards. Many people do this, including myself, with little to no ill effect.

Don't worry about an intake manifold? That's BS. Lots of LS1 guys upgrade to the LS6 manifold, especially since you can find them for under $300 now. I was lucky enough to find a used F.A.S.T. intake, which has shown gains over the LS6 by as much as .2 in some instances. I DEFINATELY noticed a difference with it. A huge difference up top: she definately likes to pull now.

So yeah, everything else looks like great info. I still stand by what I said earlier and say that a stall should be the first thing to do to an auto (after sub-frame connectors and drag radials)