How do Lower Control arms help you hook better? I just don't understand it. What do Lower control arms do exactly? Sorry for the stupid question, but I'm curious. Also, what else could I do for traction? Thanks.

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--Michael
'01 Camaro SS A4
Mods Include:
Superior 3.73 Gears, Jet Chip Racing Chip, K&N Air Filter, Free Ram Air Cut-out, Granatelli MAF, Whisper Induction Lid, Corsa Cat-back Exhaust, Jet PCM Controller--Calibrates for my gears, Auburn Carrier, Hypertech 160 Degree Thermostat, SLP Strut Tower Brace, Sub Frame Connectors, Throttle Body Bypass, Powerslot Slotted Rotors, Hawk Performance Brake Pads.

Best 1/4: 13.192 @ 106.38MPH w/2.086 60' on GoodYear Eagle F1 tires.

Recent 1/4 run on 4/10/02: 13.502 with a 2.367 60' on 275x40ZR17 Dunlop SP sports, without the 160 thermostat, STB, SFC, or TB Bypass--With Some DR's, maybe run a 12.8, or 12.7? Fingers crossed. Headers coming soon.

See "Cammie" at http://members.cardomain.com/ozorowsky

 

The two lower control arms are the primary links that attach the rear axle to the car. They pivot at both ends to allow the suspension to travel. Most aftermarket LCA's will use polyurethane at the pivot points instead of the factory's rubber because the rubber is easily compressed. Aftermarket LCA's are constructed of tubular or boxed steel (or billet aluminum) and resist flex much more effectively than the OEM stamped steel arms. High quality LCA's add significantly to traction by reducing wheel hop and eliminating unwanted axle movement under power. Most manufacturers offer brackets to alter the rear mounting point to improve suspension geometry on launch, but these brackets are best suited for vehicles that see more than occasional dragstrip use. Aftermarket LCA's are easily installed (four bolts) and the swap is completely reversible if you sell the car or want to return it to stock.

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1986 Buick Regal T-Type TE44, .030" TRW's, 43 lb injectors, ATR Downpipe, wastegate, ram air and exhaust, Lubrant chips, custom converter by Alan, Hot-wired 340 fuel pump, Bilstein shocks, GNX wheels, Ultralite gauges, and the whole METCO catalog
New Better Faster Engine Under Construction

1987 Buick Regal Turbo T 'Old Gray' GM Hi-Tech Performance magazine's project car - Ron Joseph bullet, Stage 5 60-1 turbo, DeQuick VR4 intercooler, Level 10 trans and converter, staged double pumper fuel system, 55 lb injectors, Bilstein shocks, Ultralite gauges

2002 Camaro SS Sebring Silver hardtop with ebony leather, Hurst 'where's third gear?' shifter, SLP lid & PS filter, !CAGS, METCO LCA's and bolt-in driveshaft loop

 

Addendum: If you autocross or take turns at high speed, you don't want to get Poly bushings at both ends...because they are stiffer, they can bind in hard turns and you could lose traction. A lot of aftermarket LCA manufacturers have LCAs that are poly at one end and rubber or spherical at the other end, which allows a little "give" for hard turning.

For a purely drag application, poly-polys are better.

Make sure you torque them down good, too. 80 foot-pounds on the bolts and 60 on the nuts.



[This message has been edited by squirrels (edited June 21, 2002).]