Just Heads?
I have a 2000 SS 16k miles M6. I have read the forums and done my homework. This is what I have found. Everyone here wants more HP. My car is an everyday driver as I cant get my self to park it and drive the honda. I have purchased but not installed a zex kit, 3.73 gears (I returned the 4.10s after hearing the horror stories) I would like to purchase a set of stage 2 heads and LT Headers next week. I would like to have a cam but I hear I will get horrible gass mileage with the cam, its only $350.00 more. I dont want to go down to 17mpg. My questions:
1> With the heads and headers installed without the cam would I still get decent mpg meaning around 25 - 27 mpg and of course the important HP gain.
2> Would I be better off and more power with a stage 1 setup with the cam. Basically the same price as the stage 2 w/o the cam. I was told that a stage 1 setup with the cam will not kill my mpg. as much and give much more power. At the same time everyone says save for a stage 2.
I know I will probably change this but other than a few more free mods this is all I will do to the car. I only have $3.4k to put into this setup that will include the install minus the headers.
Any prefs? One day I would just like to be around 400 hp from my homework this is the way. I know there are a lot of pure engine guys on this board.
1> With the heads and headers installed without the cam would I still get decent mpg meaning around 25 - 27 mpg and of course the important HP gain.
2> Would I be better off and more power with a stage 1 setup with the cam. Basically the same price as the stage 2 w/o the cam. I was told that a stage 1 setup with the cam will not kill my mpg. as much and give much more power. At the same time everyone says save for a stage 2.
I know I will probably change this but other than a few more free mods this is all I will do to the car. I only have $3.4k to put into this setup that will include the install minus the headers.
Any prefs? One day I would just like to be around 400 hp from my homework this is the way. I know there are a lot of pure engine guys on this board.
While I don't have 3.73's yet I do have everything else. With my Stage 2 ARE setup with the cam I am getting about 30+ on the highway and 20ish + around town. If you just get a set of heads and don't do the cam you are going to be really disappointed. Seeing that it only takes another hour in the install.
Also keep in mind that a set of bolts and all the gaskets to do the heads are going to be about 400 bucks. Tuning may be required too. I'd recommend getting your car tuned on the dyno rather than mail order for a long list of reasons. 12 Quarts of oil, two oil filters, two gallons of coolant, two cans of 134A refrigerant, 8 spark plugs and a box of bandaids with some bactine are also required. That adds another $150 bucks easily. If you don't have a torque wrench, goto Home Depot and get a Husky TQ Wrench for 250lb-ft ($100). Just make sure you know when you are dealing with bolts in inch-pounds (like the lifter guide bolts).
It's a rather lenghty list of steps to do, but relatively easy. I think you'll find your stash of cash will be quickly drained. But it will be worth it. I am sitting right at 400 RWHP and it's pretty cool.
If you don't have the cash to do it all up front, do the longtubes first. That'll put you around 340 to 350 at the rear easily with the right setup. Then do the heads later.
------------------
Grand Rapids, MI
2002 WS6
http://www.sigma-epsilon.org/steve
stevedertien@attbi.com
Whisper Lid, Grotyohann Headers and Y-pipe, Corsa Exhaust, BMR SFC's, McLeod Single Disk, Spohn Torque Arm, LCA and Panhard Rod and much more to come
[This message has been edited by derty (edited July 31, 2002).]
Also keep in mind that a set of bolts and all the gaskets to do the heads are going to be about 400 bucks. Tuning may be required too. I'd recommend getting your car tuned on the dyno rather than mail order for a long list of reasons. 12 Quarts of oil, two oil filters, two gallons of coolant, two cans of 134A refrigerant, 8 spark plugs and a box of bandaids with some bactine are also required. That adds another $150 bucks easily. If you don't have a torque wrench, goto Home Depot and get a Husky TQ Wrench for 250lb-ft ($100). Just make sure you know when you are dealing with bolts in inch-pounds (like the lifter guide bolts).
It's a rather lenghty list of steps to do, but relatively easy. I think you'll find your stash of cash will be quickly drained. But it will be worth it. I am sitting right at 400 RWHP and it's pretty cool.
If you don't have the cash to do it all up front, do the longtubes first. That'll put you around 340 to 350 at the rear easily with the right setup. Then do the heads later.
------------------
Grand Rapids, MI
2002 WS6
http://www.sigma-epsilon.org/steve
stevedertien@attbi.com
Whisper Lid, Grotyohann Headers and Y-pipe, Corsa Exhaust, BMR SFC's, McLeod Single Disk, Spohn Torque Arm, LCA and Panhard Rod and much more to come
[This message has been edited by derty (edited July 31, 2002).]
I agree with derty, doing heads w/o a cam will leave you a little disappointed. I also believe that you'll be disappointed if you go with stage 1 heads and a cam. IMO, go with a good pair of stage 2 heads, a nice cam and the headers. After a good dyno tune, you should easily be putting out 425rwhp and your gas mileage probably will not suffer too much, if any.
Personally, I would still do it even if my gas mileage took a pretty big hit. Power=fun.
Oh yeah, your car will be a f***in' beast on spray.
------------------
Aaron
Black ’96 Z28 *sold*
SSM '02 Z28
Pro 5.0, FRA, MTI lid
¼- 13.21@108.2
Personally, I would still do it even if my gas mileage took a pretty big hit. Power=fun.
Oh yeah, your car will be a f***in' beast on spray.
------------------
Aaron
Black ’96 Z28 *sold*
SSM '02 Z28
Pro 5.0, FRA, MTI lid
¼- 13.21@108.2
I know that I can search and find but if you guys know of any places that sell the intake and head setups with good support the price is important to me but support if i call with problems is equally important to me. Please list the links. If I can keep above 27mpg hell yeah I will get the stage 2 and cam, and the LTs. I will wait on the intake because I can see this costing me around $4k plus. I know that will really help me out so I will plan for that in a few months. I want to get the engine work out of the way.
I found this LS1 Stage 2 Heads - by Z-Rated Motorsports - $1995.00
410 RWHP, 395 RWTQ WITH HEADERS AND CAMLS218 CAM *Hot tank and inspect heads *Fully ported race prepped cylinder heads *Competition 3 angle valve job *Resurface heads to desired compression *Stainless steel SI valves 2.02 int. / 1.57 exh. *Viton valve seals *Comp Cams hi performance valve springs *Machined locks and titanium retainers *Set all valve spring pressures and heights *Flow test *Fully assembled cylinder head *Ready to bolt on / core is required
LS218 Cam - $399.00
CAMLS218 HYD. ROLLER CAM INT-218 EXH-222 .560" LIFT 412 RWHP AND 395 RWTQ WITH OUR STAGE II HEADS AND HEADERS MODIFIED ECU AND STOCK BOTTOM END
I know I could have just put the link but WTH. Do you think that this is too much for a daily driver. Can anyone beat this price? Or should I get a more aggressive cam.
Again thanks,
I found this LS1 Stage 2 Heads - by Z-Rated Motorsports - $1995.00
410 RWHP, 395 RWTQ WITH HEADERS AND CAMLS218 CAM *Hot tank and inspect heads *Fully ported race prepped cylinder heads *Competition 3 angle valve job *Resurface heads to desired compression *Stainless steel SI valves 2.02 int. / 1.57 exh. *Viton valve seals *Comp Cams hi performance valve springs *Machined locks and titanium retainers *Set all valve spring pressures and heights *Flow test *Fully assembled cylinder head *Ready to bolt on / core is required
LS218 Cam - $399.00
CAMLS218 HYD. ROLLER CAM INT-218 EXH-222 .560" LIFT 412 RWHP AND 395 RWTQ WITH OUR STAGE II HEADS AND HEADERS MODIFIED ECU AND STOCK BOTTOM END
I know I could have just put the link but WTH. Do you think that this is too much for a daily driver. Can anyone beat this price? Or should I get a more aggressive cam.
Again thanks,
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