ok i'm tryin to set up a christmas list for the family (even though it's all incredibly too expensive) and i'm gonna put a cam on there...here's the question...i want a cam that's not stock sounding but still mild enough to be a daily driver...all those numbers confuse the hell outta me. I already have LTs w/ a M6...anything else needed? thanks a lot!!!

 

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=327734

That thread will teach you the majority of what you need to know about cams

I also bought this book from barns and noble called chevy ls1/ls6 performance it is written by christopher p. endres and it explains it very well too.

The type of cam you want probably has to be relative to your emissions in your city/county/state or who ever sets those stupid laws. so it would help if you told us your required emissions for passing

im pretty sure that the lsa (lobe separation angle) which will look like 112* or 114* or 116* in your case 119.5* (that is the stock cam) is the major thing that affects the sound of your cam. The lower it is the more choppy and the higher the more smoother....

Just read up... if your going to invest that kind of money into your car i think you should understand what you are going to buy...

Dakota

 

I believe overlap would be the main thing that would change the idle characteristics. Overlap can be decreased by widening the LSA.

What you said is accurate, but LSA is not what technically dictates a mild or choppy idle- that's duration and overlap.

Ben T.

 

my baddd... your right i just looked at it in the book

 

can't go wrong with the tried and true TR224 cam

mild street manners, noticable idle, easy on springs, and yields about 30hp on stock heads.

 

do i need to worry about springs? is that something i should change while i'm around there? should i change the oil pump to (thunder racing suggests it when changing the cam)??? i had written in my notebook a thunder racing 230...i don't remember why i wrote that down but is it ok?

 

for any cam making over .525" lift you need new springs, that is the max the stockers can handle.

the oil pump is a good idea, nice peace of mind, as is the timing chain.

the 230 cam will be pretty big, still street friendly for the most part. but that is a very subjective concept. some people don't like the street manners of the 224 size cams, some people like me think that a 233 cam is still street friendly.

 

TR224 cam, 112 lsa...nice choppy idle. Very streetable. Or, a hotcam kit.

 

As stated by Study, Overlap determines idle quality and emissions compliance. Negative overlap=smooth running and clean . Positive overlap=rough idle and dirty.
Overlap is a function of LSA and duration. Run a short enough duration with a tight LSA and you can still have -overlap.
This is the formula:
(Int Dur + Exh Dur)/2 - (2 X lsa) = * of overlap
(at .050 lifts)
Tight LSA (lower numbers), gets in the power quicker.
More LSA, holds power longer

Basically, larger duration will make more power, but the power band will move up in the RPM range. Shorter duration makes power in lower RPM "more torque".

Lift, since you know nada stay with small lift numbers unless you want to learn about things and are willing to change springs somewhat regularly.

This has all been VERY general concepts.

Other things needed with a cam: springs and pushrods. These are both a must with any aftermarket grind. Sure you can get by with stock PR's, but you're pushing it. Might as well do the job right. You'll also want a tune. General rule of thumb, if you can't afford a tune, you can't afford a cam.

I'd suggest ditching that MAF and getting a LS6 intake before a cam. Hotcam would be easy on the springs and give you a nasty idle, but is somewhat lacking in power. You can step up a little and get the LPE GT2-5 cam and some LS6/2 springs for less than a hotcam kit and make a bit more power.

Most of all give yourself some time to make sense of all those numbers.
I don't get why people are too lazy to research things prior to purchasing. Why remain clueless? Use the pinkish-gray squishy thing between your ears. It does more than keep the echo down.

 

Yeah one day when i have time between school and work i'll figure all that stuff out...that helped though! What do you mean ditch the MAF? I'm looking at LS6 intakes also...isn't it possible to get the later LS6 intake w/out the EGR and just block off the EGR on my car or something like that? would that be beneficial?

 

Ditch the ported and polished crap. It'll make you run lean.

And yes, that is done regularly with the LS6.

School and work...pfff. I was still building engines and racing between school and work. lol

 

ok i had a question bout that to...isn't the power on the lean side, just not extremly lean? if so, how lean does ported and polished or Granatelli make it run? reason i'm asking is i bought a GMS MAF and was told to ditch it cause it makes you run lean, so i bought the ported and polished one used and now i need to buy another one? yeah i try to find time to do that stuff but really don't have the dough!

 

all the factory installed LS6 intakes didn't have the EGR provisions. the only LS6 intakes taht do are the aftermarket SLP versions.

 

The best MAF is a stock MAF.