If you guys had my car...what would you do?
With 2 grand to spend I would first upgrade the induction system (SLP lid $100 and K&N air filter $50). Also, I would perform all the free mods....there free $0. Then I would go to the exhaust (FLP headers $850, Random Tech. cats and cat-back exhaust $750, I think). I read in Chevy Hi-Performance where a company down in Flordia (Vincy Hi-Performance...check it out on the web) got about 50-75 horsepower just from the headers, cats, and cat-back. This would be my idea of some good performance up grades without messing with gears, torque converters, and the internal engine.
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1998 Z28. Artic White.
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1998 Z28. Artic White.
- SS hood
- Sport Appearance pkg.
- Ported, Polished MAFH
- Free ram air Mod.
- Flowmaster Exhaust
- Custom Stainless tips
- T-tops
- Fully loaded
First of all save your money and install it all yourself or find a friend(s) to help you that know how!
lid :$100
shifter: $170
SLP loudmouth: $350
Hooker long tubes and y-pipe(no cats): ~$700
Nitto drag radials: ~$300
subframe connectors: ~$300
port your own TB: ~ 80 bucks for dremel and proper bit/sand paper
This is exactly $2000 grand and alot of HP for that Z and you to take
Good luck and have fun,
Rick
lid :$100
shifter: $170
SLP loudmouth: $350
Hooker long tubes and y-pipe(no cats): ~$700
Nitto drag radials: ~$300
subframe connectors: ~$300
port your own TB: ~ 80 bucks for dremel and proper bit/sand paper
This is exactly $2000 grand and alot of HP for that Z and you to take

Good luck and have fun,
Rick
I know I can do most of the mods myself. I kinda wanted the exhaust welded on. Is this a good idea or should I do it in my driveway and clamp it. All my friends say I should have it welded. There isnt any way I can do the SFC's myself. I am going to have to have someone weld those in for me. When I said leave some room for istallation I wasnt talking about the lid or the MAF or anything like that. I can handle that stuff.
joN
joN
Well first off what did your car come with and is this a street/strip setup or primarily street?
If you already have the upgraded dual/dual exhaust, you're really not going to get an improved performance by going to the Corsa or any other AM catback for that matter. So if you change the exhaust it's for sound and looks ... for sound just replace the muffler - you will want something like a Magnaflow - nice sound, good performance and inexpensive. Then pick youself up some nice tips for asthetics.
If you do decide to go with a full catback, keep in mind the tried and true - Borla, B&B. The latest hot thing, Corsa/GMMG, have not stood the test of time yet. The Corsa muffler's have been dropping like flies here after about a year and there are people complaining of rattling with the GMMG.
MAFs/MAF ends ... unless you have money to burn, they are a high risk propostion, especially on a '01/'02. They can be impressive when you first put them on, but as the PCM adjusts to them, you easily wind up with nothing or an actual power loss. I tried the SLP, Pace and ported ends. In every case I lost ET at the track or rwhp on the dyno.
Intake ... do at least a lid, anywhere from $85 to $150 depending upon your taste. As far as a K&N or a Holly filter - not really neccesary, unless you are going with !FRA or an induction system. If you are going with an induction system, look into the FIPK. It maintains the integrity of your cars cooling system and mates up well with the SS hood. Any other induction system - such as the FTRA or SLP - will cost more, cannabilzes your cooling system and exposes the car to potential hydrolock. Unless you're hardcore drag racing it's really not worth it.
A ported TB is a good mod, nothing really impressive. But the throttle feels more responsive and you get a little more top end if you do the bump stop mod ... do the whole thing yourself or pick one up for around $160 or less with a core swap.
Crank pully, again good safe proven mod, especially with an M6 and if you do just the crank and not the alternater. Check around, I think the price on an ASP pully is probably just under a $200. Install shouldn't be more than $150, if that.
Suspension ... there's really no bad choices out there. BMR is about the best bang for the buck for the bolt on stuff - PHR, STB and LCAs. If you get LCAs, make sure you get the poly/rubber. Personally though, unless you are hardcore drag racing, just weld a plate on your stock LCAs to box them - any welding shop could do it for $20 with scrap they have lying around. AS far as SFCs, if you're hard core racing, autox or drag, get a set of double diamonds. But, they will hang down and are noticable under the car. If you're primarly street, a set of BMRs will tuck up real nice and should more than meet your needs.
As far as headers and gears, save those for another round of modding. No matter how you cut it a set of headers will be between $1100 to $1600 installed. Unless you go real cheap and get a set of uncoated Hookers and I wouldn't recommend going uncoated headers in the Midwest. Gears same thing, by the time you get the gears, install kit, gear oil, speedometer adjustment and installation, your talking $700 to $800. You might be able to do one of these if you're real frugal on your other mods.
Good Luck
------------------
'01 Mystic Teal Z28
A4/3.23/Leather/T-Tops
Mods List Here
12.38/110.72/1.74 60'
325 rwhp/341 rwtq
www.MysticZ28.com
NorCal LS1/LT1
"To play it safe is not to play"
If you already have the upgraded dual/dual exhaust, you're really not going to get an improved performance by going to the Corsa or any other AM catback for that matter. So if you change the exhaust it's for sound and looks ... for sound just replace the muffler - you will want something like a Magnaflow - nice sound, good performance and inexpensive. Then pick youself up some nice tips for asthetics.
If you do decide to go with a full catback, keep in mind the tried and true - Borla, B&B. The latest hot thing, Corsa/GMMG, have not stood the test of time yet. The Corsa muffler's have been dropping like flies here after about a year and there are people complaining of rattling with the GMMG.
MAFs/MAF ends ... unless you have money to burn, they are a high risk propostion, especially on a '01/'02. They can be impressive when you first put them on, but as the PCM adjusts to them, you easily wind up with nothing or an actual power loss. I tried the SLP, Pace and ported ends. In every case I lost ET at the track or rwhp on the dyno.
Intake ... do at least a lid, anywhere from $85 to $150 depending upon your taste. As far as a K&N or a Holly filter - not really neccesary, unless you are going with !FRA or an induction system. If you are going with an induction system, look into the FIPK. It maintains the integrity of your cars cooling system and mates up well with the SS hood. Any other induction system - such as the FTRA or SLP - will cost more, cannabilzes your cooling system and exposes the car to potential hydrolock. Unless you're hardcore drag racing it's really not worth it.
A ported TB is a good mod, nothing really impressive. But the throttle feels more responsive and you get a little more top end if you do the bump stop mod ... do the whole thing yourself or pick one up for around $160 or less with a core swap.
Crank pully, again good safe proven mod, especially with an M6 and if you do just the crank and not the alternater. Check around, I think the price on an ASP pully is probably just under a $200. Install shouldn't be more than $150, if that.
Suspension ... there's really no bad choices out there. BMR is about the best bang for the buck for the bolt on stuff - PHR, STB and LCAs. If you get LCAs, make sure you get the poly/rubber. Personally though, unless you are hardcore drag racing, just weld a plate on your stock LCAs to box them - any welding shop could do it for $20 with scrap they have lying around. AS far as SFCs, if you're hard core racing, autox or drag, get a set of double diamonds. But, they will hang down and are noticable under the car. If you're primarly street, a set of BMRs will tuck up real nice and should more than meet your needs.
As far as headers and gears, save those for another round of modding. No matter how you cut it a set of headers will be between $1100 to $1600 installed. Unless you go real cheap and get a set of uncoated Hookers and I wouldn't recommend going uncoated headers in the Midwest. Gears same thing, by the time you get the gears, install kit, gear oil, speedometer adjustment and installation, your talking $700 to $800. You might be able to do one of these if you're real frugal on your other mods.
Good Luck
------------------
'01 Mystic Teal Z28
A4/3.23/Leather/T-Tops
Mods List Here
12.38/110.72/1.74 60'
325 rwhp/341 rwtq
www.MysticZ28.com
NorCal LS1/LT1
"To play it safe is not to play"
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