this in one of my older articles has been proven to be true about the gearing. a very tall gear will lose hp from having too much load on an engine and a very deep gear loses some because it's revs too quick on the dyno to get high velocity built in the intake as well as having to spin the driveshaft (remember, it's a rotating weight) as well as spinning the pinion gear and it's bearing faster. as far as what gear to run it in, every gear on the trans will show a different hp number. this has been researched time and time again and it does make a difference. i'd like to see the sheets where it came out exactly the same.

 

Not true.. at least the oil part 'cause I dynoed after I changed all the fluids! no difference...

as for the gears, that is most likely true and I believe it.. someone want to call dynojet and get an answer from them?

as for "dynos are not tracks" true again... but so many people dont know how to get the most out of their cars that it is a useful tool.. Helps you detemine shift points for both autos and manuals and with calculations will help you determine what is possibly the best time the car can run.. which will help you gauge your driving ability and adjust accordingly.

 

I agree with using the dyno as a tuning tool but to many people think way to much of the numbers. I would much rather use the track to set my shift points.

 

All this reading is confusing me on my HP, my ET time is a 13.2 @108MPH <-----This is according to Vector FX1 (Little toy that plugs in the cigg. lighter) I havent taken it to the track yet to see what it really is. I know my car is def. fast. Im guessing asfar as RWHP goes 300 HP would be safe to say without Dyno. If anyone knows how bad those Vectors are off, please let me know. Im also using the HPP3 with mine but I left all shift points stock, changed tire sizes and shift firmness (I believe thats all) I had messed with the shift points but when id try to pass someone, itd hit redline and it wasnt funny lol so i changed it back to stock and a 13.2 @ 108MPH is what I ran.

Also what would be the quickest way to get me into the 12's?

 

You should be at 12's.. but if you want to compare apples to apples, get to a track..

Remember what many seem to forget.. Mods dont make the car faster.. A great driver does.. you can add all the mods in the world and the car will still just sit there cause its lacking a driver.. Or you can have a crappy driver behind the wheel and watch him spin his way to a 15 sec pass on a 400HP car.. Or better yet, a very good driver, gets the car to hook and launch and off he goes to repeated consistant times.I suggest you work on learning how to launch YOUR car and how to get it down the 1/4 mile fastest for YOU. Experiment at the track but get many passes in to test theorys and see what works for your car.. You have the gear and motor to get you the times you seek... Your next mod(s) should be stall (I recommend no more than 2800-3000), air bag in the right rear, tires, and a tranny cooler since your gear will have your car spinning more and if you see alot of sustained highway driving, it will help..

G-techs and all other car mounted equipment will all benefit from a perfectly flat road.. The track is flat. .most roads arent.. I would rather get my numbers from the track.. I usually run my G-tech at the track to compare and come up with very similar numbers but I must add that I cannot get the same numbers on the street.

good luck! I am going to the track tonight!