How to troubleshoot dead cruise control?
#1
How to troubleshoot dead cruise control?
D4mnit, going on a 2800 mile roadtrip in three days, and I find that my cruise control isn't working tonight. It was too dark outside to really look at anything in detail
I did confirm the cruise control cable was attached to the TB, but the cable has literally no free play in it.
Anyone know which fuse controls CC? I just had the master cylinder/clutch/tranny rebuilt and will wait if it's the CC control box...but if it's something as simple as a fuse or crimped cable, I want this to work for the trip!
I did confirm the cruise control cable was attached to the TB, but the cable has literally no free play in it.
Anyone know which fuse controls CC? I just had the master cylinder/clutch/tranny rebuilt and will wait if it's the CC control box...but if it's something as simple as a fuse or crimped cable, I want this to work for the trip!
#2
Did you check to make sure you don't have a brake light out? The CC circuit uses the break light assembly wiring.
Check it and lemme know
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1994 Polo Green F-1 Camaro M6 ~ Sold, now residing in Minnesota
1998 BG Chameleon Firebird Formula A4 - 2.73s, lid, filter, cutout
314 rwhp, 327 rwtq / 13.24@106.45, full weight and a 2.05 60'
President & Webmaster, Central Ohio F-Body Association: www.cofba.org
Check it and lemme know
------------------
1994 Polo Green F-1 Camaro M6 ~ Sold, now residing in Minnesota
1998 BG Chameleon Firebird Formula A4 - 2.73s, lid, filter, cutout
314 rwhp, 327 rwtq / 13.24@106.45, full weight and a 2.05 60'
President & Webmaster, Central Ohio F-Body Association: www.cofba.org
#4
Think I found it. There is a white cylindrical switch which gets depressed when the clutch pedal is at the top of it's travel. However, at the top of my current pedal's travel, it's merely resting on the top of that switch, and not depressing it.
With the clutch pedal in, that switch is spring-loaded. I presume it's just a matter of tweaking the position of that switch closer to the pedal? I wonder how far that switch needs to depressed for the CC system to consider the clutch pedal out?
With the clutch pedal in, that switch is spring-loaded. I presume it's just a matter of tweaking the position of that switch closer to the pedal? I wonder how far that switch needs to depressed for the CC system to consider the clutch pedal out?
#5
OK, disconnected the electrical clip, then rotated the threaded part of this switch clockwise until the square edge caught and locked. That fully depressed the switch with the pedal out. Wonder if this what was causing my intermittent CC cutout on previous roadtrips?
Will test tomorrow as I'll have to park in BFE if someone grabs my spot.
Will test tomorrow as I'll have to park in BFE if someone grabs my spot.
#6
Have have an auto. and my cruis control just went out as well. The fuse is good and the CC wire is conected to the TB. Any other ideas?
Jason~
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'98 Z28. Artic White. Sports appearance pkg. T-tops, loaded. Flowmaster Exhaust,Custom Stainless tips, SS Hood.
Jason~
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'98 Z28. Artic White. Sports appearance pkg. T-tops, loaded. Flowmaster Exhaust,Custom Stainless tips, SS Hood.
#7
You found it. That switch above the clutch pedal is there to turn the cruise control off if you press the clutch... same way pressing the brake will disable the cruise. Your adjustment should fix it.
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- Chris
2000 Formula Firehawk #095
Pewter Metallic, M6, T-Top, Ebony Cloth Interior
SLP Options: Chrome Wheels, Bilstein Suspension, Lubricant Package, Custom Car Cover, Floor Mats
Mods: Direct Flo Lid, K&N, GMS MAF, SLP ATM, SLP Tuned-Length Headers, Random Tech Cats, SLP "Loud Mouth" Exhaust w/ dual 3.5" tips, Magnecor 8.5mm Wires, NGK TR55 Plugs, B&M Ripper, !CAGS, Hurst Line Lock w/ Thunder Racing install kit, Nitto 245/50R16 NT-555R on 16x8 Z-28 Wheels (for drag racing only), SLP STB, Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm
335 rwhp, 343 rwtq (before headers)
Best 1/4 mile: 13.160 @ 108.30 (2.126 60') (11/15/00 @ Speedworld Motorplex) (before headers)
------------------
- Chris
2000 Formula Firehawk #095
Pewter Metallic, M6, T-Top, Ebony Cloth Interior
SLP Options: Chrome Wheels, Bilstein Suspension, Lubricant Package, Custom Car Cover, Floor Mats
Mods: Direct Flo Lid, K&N, GMS MAF, SLP ATM, SLP Tuned-Length Headers, Random Tech Cats, SLP "Loud Mouth" Exhaust w/ dual 3.5" tips, Magnecor 8.5mm Wires, NGK TR55 Plugs, B&M Ripper, !CAGS, Hurst Line Lock w/ Thunder Racing install kit, Nitto 245/50R16 NT-555R on 16x8 Z-28 Wheels (for drag racing only), SLP STB, Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm
335 rwhp, 343 rwtq (before headers)
Best 1/4 mile: 13.160 @ 108.30 (2.126 60') (11/15/00 @ Speedworld Motorplex) (before headers)
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