hey guys just needed some feed back on reaching to 390rwhp. as for the mods so far i have lid, filter, flowmaster, and lt headers on a 00 ls1, a4. i heard that u lose power from the flowmaster so i'll be changing that into another cat back may be a hooker cat back? i've ordered the ls6 intake manifold already towards my mod so that should definenetly help me. im not planning to go on the tracks, just street racing. i dont want any force induction either, just bolt ons! any suggestion or advice will help. thanx.

 

get a cam

 

I don't think that is possible, really not through an A4.

TONY

 

Ported/aftermarket heads use bolts, right? I mean...since you do "bolt" them on I guess you could still have a "bolt on" car.

Zach

 

From what I've heard on here, that RWHP number isn't possible with just bolt-ons, you'll need bolt-ons AND a cam.

I'll be honest with you (and I'm in no way being harsh, so please don't take it that way), people won't be impressed at what your car can do simply due to the fact that it's just a "bolt-on" car. The fact of the matter is you can rant and rave about it all you want in the staging lanes on the street or whereever you race, but it's really whoever crosses the finish line first. Most people won't judge your car based on the parameters you've stayed within in order to get the most out of it, all they see is that is/isn't one bad ***, fast car. So I say modify it all you want, it's how fast it goes that counts, not what you did/didn't do to get it there.

 

if you plan to stick with stock heads...you'll need a decent size cam to hit your mark...specially with the A4

realize that HP isn't everything. putting it to the ground has a major affect on the car.
since you have an auto, you'll need to get a bigger torque converter and probably gears.

call up one of the site sponsors like texas speed or thunder and see what they say.

 

buy an LS2?

 

that made me laugh, nice one

 

the wife's car is at 365 rwhp with heads and stock cam. still have the LS1 intake and stock crank pulley i can change out. so, boltons only, really hard.

 

Unless you are "bolting-on" a power adder, you won't get close to 390RWHP internally stock N/A w/ bolt-on's. ESPECIALLY w/ an auto. Unrealistic goal. Add a bigger cam to the mix, and then you are in business.

 

Whats the best he could do rwhp wise with only bolt-ons? I would assume 360-370. Thats with ported throttle body and all small mods too. Plus a tune

 

cam, lid, cutout, headers + tune, will probably put you at 400+

 

I gotta laugh at all these dyno queen wanna be's. Who gives a rats a$$ about peak hp on the dyno? If you are full bolt on that'll include a converter which give you better gains than any other mod that is considered a bolt on, but will lower your hp on the dyno. Then you have your traction based mods than won't do a thing for you on the dyno, but will in the real world.

 

it is kindda funny isn't it...

i think it's the hold over from the "ricer mentality"...it's all about the HP
___400hp
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
____________/ \
3000rpm 6000rpm 9000rpm

"yo dawg....check out my 400hp 1.8L honda...it's mad tight yo!! i'll walk your 300hp camaro"

one of the guys in the florida forum was running consistent 12.5s with not much more than lid, catback and traction mods....

and realize that once you add more hp...traction is even harder to find. the old saying is that 0.1sec in the 1/4mi is about 10hp, but many times guys add a h/c package that picks up 75-100hp but they only drop 0.5sec due to crappy traction.


edit:
awe man....my cute little graph didn't display correctly....booo

 

I'd bet he'd get close with a good set of heads, 1.85 rockers, pullies, SSRA, lid, !cats, hogged tb w/bronze blade, hogged maf (wires and all), tornado air swirly thingy, high-density low temp spark plugs, !pcm....oh and of course headers w/ a cutout welded on backwards for the ram-air effect (don't laugh - a local exhaust shop did that to my friend's car).