what's the best way to go with HP. as you can see in my signature i dont have much gains or upgrades in hp, just handeling n stance. some tell me to go with O-ring 3.45 gears others tell me headers n i've heard of a couple of good computer prog.units. what way do i go . its a daily driver so long tubes r out do to the drop. any tips or advise thanx!

 

WAY too generic, dude!!

Do you have a certain "goal" you'd like to reach? (power wise)

Are you working in a tight budget? Wide budget?

Are you open to forced induction (super/turbo chargers) or nitrous?? (do you want the power sometimes, or always? )

I have no idea what "O-ring 3.45 gears" are?!

Do you have an A4 (automatic 4-speed) or M6 (manual 6-speed) ?? If you ever considered gears, that would help decide which ones (not) to get.

You can do heads/cam and get over ~400 RWHP. The sky is the limit with the LS1. A lot comes down to budget.

A few more specifics may help .

 

Personally im all about all motor cars so id go with either just a cam, or if you want even more power n dont mind the extra dough a good head cam setup. Either one can get you over 400 rwhp with the appropriate bolt ons... Futral and TSP are good places too look. But as previously mentioned your bein way too "generic"... Specifics are very important.

 

my goal is for sure over 400hp! i got an A4 n by o-ring i meant the Ring&pinion gear sets. and it was for a 3.42. my budget right now is 1000 flat. for parts not including instal.fee. i would like HP at all times, dont know if supercharger/turbo kit would be wise for a daily driver?

 

How much did you lower the car? If you can, do LT headers. Looking at what you have that would be youur next power "building block." Then get a tune.

If you can't do that gears and stall will net you a nice gain at the track.

The supercharger/turbo options will blow your budget way out of the water. Depending on how you drive and the condition of your car you could do a low boost FI setup.

 

Ok, well for an example, you could go to Thunder Racing for a cam package, including all the parts you'd need, for ~$600 - $800. The right cam alone will get you pushing ~400+ HP at the flywheel. To complement that, you will need either a ~3500 stall, and/or some lower gears (3.42's aren't bad for an auto ... especially a daily driver that sees some highway ... but you can go to 3.73's or 4.10's if you don't mind running higher revs? ). Gears can be had for around ~$200, so there goes your ~$1000 worth of parts!

Then down the road, a set of heads will be upwards of a couple grand (by the time you factor in the heads, gaskets, etc., and labor if you're paying someone to do it). But the heads will REALLY bring the cam to life. Although if you don't consider headers, you could be sacrificing A LOT of potential power . With the exception of SLP's, MOST headers for the LS1 tuck up fairly tight under the car, and lots of guys run them even on lowered cars . Without them, you'll be leaving a lot of power on the table.

Hopefully that's a little more helpful to you?

 

if at some point in the future you want to make 400rwhp +.....you're gonna need some kind of header.

since you're lowered....mac mid lenghts...

and since it's an auto...i'd say do a stall with trans cooler...and 3.42 or 3.73 gears (depending on highway driving)

that will probably eat up most of your budget...then start researching for h/c.

 

thanks for the tips i'll look into some Heads/cams pakg. i was thinking of some mid headers. im not to sure if i would have problems with long tubes due to the fact that the cats get removed. i droped the car 1.5 all around. stands great!!

 

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=502280

Check your other thread from about post 12 on. I think the have a link to a catted setup in there. You don't have to remove the cats. You can still have converters, they just move back a little. I have Jet hot's that tuck up fairly tight, I think I read somewhere that pacesetters, jet hot, and Hooker headers are all the same design with differences in the mounting flange.

Unless you live in california or another tough emissions state, they'll probably just do a visual check for cats. Do you have to go on a sniffer? That's going to effect a head and cam combo as well.

 

Do you still have the stock intake? If so that would be the first thing to change. Mid lengths or long tubes would be next. Do you have a chance to look at other cars to see what kind of clearance long tubes give you.
If the car is a dedicated daily driver and you are concerned about gas mileage be carfull about how much you mod. Some have great success others not so much. Can be hard to set up a rear gear without noise. Getting 400 rwhp on a cam only is possible but it isn't going to be that street friendly.
Just remeber there is a reason that the car runs so well stock. It is well engineered combination from the factory, when you start changing things you can have serious problems. Try and hook up with a local group that has experience with a tuner in your area. Or look at HP tuners with a wideband if you have the savy.
So far I have done a rebuilt short block, one set of heads, two cam installs, multiple tunes, 2 different sets of headers and a fast90/90 intake, racetronix pump and 42lbs injectors. Along with a multitude of other bits that I don't even want to think about.

 

i stay in LA. that's why the cats r a bit of a concern do to cops n smog issues with dmv proof. but i dont want that to stop me from having fun with my f-body. i still want to push it. so i should start with the manifold, since i still have the stock one in. then with headers i look into going with LT or mids.

 

Sniffer? never heard that term b4!! i also saw the Y-pipe with the cats welded on. that just might work with these smog problems!

 

The machine they hook up on the car to see what your emissions are.

 

oh!! yeah they use one of those!! ha! i was looking at the LT pacesetters with cat/Y-pipe n i dont think i should have any smog problems with those. those anyone know how much HP i will get with that LT set up? i just might get if it worth the bang.

 

Since you don't have 3.42 gears you have an A4. Go with a converter first. It'll actually make you dyno less but you'll run .5sec quicker.

So I'll advise on NOT making your goal HP related but performance related. o