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Gears and the 1/4th.

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Old Jul 9, 2003 | 07:57 PM
  #1  
tailwindxr7's Avatar
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Gears and the 1/4th.

Since I'm having rear-end troubles I may be looking at new gears. I could always stick with 3.42s, but if I have a choice I want to research other options (don't want 4.10s, though.)

My main question is if I upgrade to a 3.73 ratio will I have to shift to 4th in a quarter mile run? That, along with traction problems and lowered mileage are the reasons I don't want 4.10s.
Old Jul 9, 2003 | 08:20 PM
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Yeah, you'll have to go into 4th...hell, you should be going into 4th with the stock 3.42s (I have to and everyone else I know does too).

Did you mean 5th? If not, weird...I'm going into 4th at like the 1000' mark so it's not like it's even close to the 1/4.

Last edited by 96SFLZ; Jul 9, 2003 at 08:22 PM.
Old Jul 9, 2003 | 08:22 PM
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Man Iam not sure if you have run at the track (1/4mile) are not but with 3.42's and a M6 you will shift into 4th. I know I did, just before crossing the traps.

I have 4.10's and get 16mpg in the city! And when I shift into 4th Iam crossing the traps around 6300 or so...give or take.....wright were you want to be.
Old Jul 9, 2003 | 09:54 PM
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Agreed, this does sound a little odd. Your goal should be to finish in 4th. You do not want to finish in 5th, because of the lack of torque ... which by the way you wont with 3.73s
Old Jul 9, 2003 | 09:58 PM
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I like my 3.42's, i am still running the stock F1's and cant afford new tires so more gear would make me loose more traction. Plus They are a good ballence of off the line speed and high end pull(ie from a 60 roll)
Old Jul 9, 2003 | 10:04 PM
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tailwindxr7's Avatar
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My bad. I actually haven't run at a 1/4th track, but I should've caught that typo regardless. Let's word it a different way.

Should I have to shift an extra time with 3.73s like I would with 4.10s? I think someone above caught was I was trying to say and said no, but I just want to make sure.
Old Jul 9, 2003 | 10:20 PM
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No, you won't have to shift a 4th time ( ), into 5th gear, with 3.73s unless you put some significant mods on that car...and at that point, you'll want a 12-bolt and perhaps some 4.10s to get the 60' and ET that others are getting.

I encourage people to get 3.73s for their M6s, because I had some for a bit and they felt very natural in the car (as if it should have come with them to begin with). I'll bet you'll like 'em.
Old Jul 9, 2003 | 10:29 PM
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Originally posted by tailwindxr7
Should I have to shift an extra time with 3.73s like I would with 4.10s? I think someone above caught was I was trying to say and said no, but I just want to make sure.

No, you will not have to go into 5th w/ 3.73s.

Even with 4.10s, you *may not* have to shift into 5th. I know someone that does tap the rev-limiter going thru the traps with 4.10s but all they have to do is bump up the limiter a couple hundred RPMs or run a little bigger (taller) tire out back...and I've seen quite a few people say that they do not go into 5th and they do not touch the rev-limiter with 4.10s.
Old Jul 9, 2003 | 10:39 PM
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Thanks for the info. I may be upgrading to a stronger rear as my 10-bolt has committed suicide (assisted suicide, maybe ) and if I do, I'll have a gear choice ahead of me.

3.73s it'll be if the choice occurs. I didn't want the 4.10s just because of the slight decrease in mileage, the larger decrease of traction, and that extra shift (don't want to mess or bounce off of the rev limiter on a stock engine, like to keep my pushrods straight.)
Old Jul 10, 2003 | 03:58 PM
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OK, the 3.73's are a good choice....but the 4.10's pull harder from 60mph in 3rd.....and the most people just bend push rods missing the 3-4 shift by pulling down to 2nd gear and over reving "mechanicly" which is different!! I don't bump the rev limiter in 4th crossing the traps but my rev limiter is set at 6400rpm.....the stock valves float around 6550/6600rpm.

If you are going with a power adder (goals must be set) then 3.42's are a good choice or 3.73's. 4.10's for LT's cam ect....naturally aspirated set up.
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