View Poll Results: Go BOOOSTED or go BUILT!! Which one?
SUPERCHARGED (procharger or Vortech



5
35.71%
BUILT (heads/cam/pulleys/manifold



9
64.29%
Voters: 14. You may not vote on this poll
Either boooosted, or BUILT...which one?
Either boooosted, or BUILT...which one?
I can't decide which to do, go boosted or go BIG!! I have the option here of getting a supercharger or heads/cam/pulleys/intake manifold with my 2000SS six-speed
But which to do? Need your help in deciding for me
But which to do? Need your help in deciding for me
BUILT
.
It's just way more "personalized" and shows more thought and originality (even though everyone goes for the TR224/224 cam!!!............j/k!
). IMO, there are a lot more options when it comes to building an engine:
Well, that's my $.02
.
.It's just way more "personalized" and shows more thought and originality (even though everyone goes for the TR224/224 cam!!!............j/k!
). IMO, there are a lot more options when it comes to building an engine:- different head combos: P&P stock, LS6, aftermarket
- lots of different cam choices
- stroker kits to increase cubes: "there's no replacement for displacement"


Well, that's my $.02
Where's the option for both?
If you're going to run a supercharger you're going to want a lot of stronger forged internals to compliment it, along with lower compression, and a cam that'll work well with it. Bolting one to a stock engine will work, but not nearly as well as it could.
I like N/A, but you can make just as much power in a more streetable application with a built motor on mild boost as opposed to a built motor that needs to run a radical cam.
If you're going to run a supercharger you're going to want a lot of stronger forged internals to compliment it, along with lower compression, and a cam that'll work well with it. Bolting one to a stock engine will work, but not nearly as well as it could.
I like N/A, but you can make just as much power in a more streetable application with a built motor on mild boost as opposed to a built motor that needs to run a radical cam.
I tend to agree with those who favor N/A as well. Making a strong engine stronger will set it up better for power adders at a later date..BUT..I am 3 years into a six-year warranty, and I'm afraid that altering some of the components, no matter how good the install, will void that warranty.
Opinions?
Opinions?
Well. If you are not looking for bang for your buck SPEND 5K on a NICE NA rebuild and then super charge it.... and make sure you get good suspension stuff....OH don't forget a NEW rear (12 bolt or 9 in) Well you might need a cage to make it LEgal on the track... Dam why not squeeze a 75-100 shot of NOS to cool the intake charge.... Well some new rims and tires would be nice to MAKE this BEAST HOOK......etc etc etc....
See my point.
N/A is a great option but hard to change...plus going with a different cam means computer tuning....possible gas and drivability problems without tuning.
YOU could always just run a LS-6 intake and stage 2 heads with headers....that would be a easy swap same you about a 1000.00 and not worry about tuning and drivability.... I knoww a guy with a 99 SS M6 setup this way running SLP heads/headers/intake...makes 360 to the wheels that is about 450-475 flywheel enough that you could take a ZO6 and run mid 12 with out any other mods... stock drivability.....
But like a said before it is hard to remove that stuff if you sell....you are selling a MODDED car with a possible abusive history....to the average guy.
See my point.
N/A is a great option but hard to change...plus going with a different cam means computer tuning....possible gas and drivability problems without tuning.
YOU could always just run a LS-6 intake and stage 2 heads with headers....that would be a easy swap same you about a 1000.00 and not worry about tuning and drivability.... I knoww a guy with a 99 SS M6 setup this way running SLP heads/headers/intake...makes 360 to the wheels that is about 450-475 flywheel enough that you could take a ZO6 and run mid 12 with out any other mods... stock drivability.....
But like a said before it is hard to remove that stuff if you sell....you are selling a MODDED car with a possible abusive history....to the average guy.
Cheaper, if you compare heads & cam (installed) vs. a supercharger.
Potentially more reliable - no way to be tempted to "tweak the boost just a bit" for a few more HP's only to hear a kaboom !
FWIW, I'm not a nitrous fan, either.
I'm skeered !!
Britt
Potentially more reliable - no way to be tempted to "tweak the boost just a bit" for a few more HP's only to hear a kaboom !
FWIW, I'm not a nitrous fan, either.
I'm skeered !!
Britt
Originally posted by S. Holley
I know a guy with a 99 SS M6 setup this way running SLP heads/headers/intake...makes 360 to the wheels that is about 450-475 flywheel
I know a guy with a 99 SS M6 setup this way running SLP heads/headers/intake...makes 360 to the wheels that is about 450-475 flywheel
That's like 20 - 25% drivetrain loss?!
If this is in an M6 car, I don't think it would be that high
. Maybe somewhere between 400 - 420 flywheel HP, based on a 10 - 15% drivetrain loss through the M6.
Originally posted by Capn Pete
"once and for all solution to stop getting beat by all your buddies!!"
Well, that's my $.02
.
"once and for all solution to stop getting beat by all your buddies!!"

Well, that's my $.02
Now with nitorous I am even more untouchable, well once my car gets out of the garage in the spring.
In that case, adding in forced induction or heads and cam will definantly void all of your power and drivetrain warantee.. You might as well see if you can end your warantee and get a prorated refund..
Anyways, my choice would be a healthy heads/cam setup picked and installed by a experienced shop.
Anyways, my choice would be a healthy heads/cam setup picked and installed by a experienced shop.
Originally posted by Camaro00_ss
I tend to agree with those who favor N/A as well. Making a strong engine stronger will set it up better for power adders at a later date..BUT..I am 3 years into a six-year warranty, and I'm afraid that altering some of the components, no matter how good the install, will void that warranty.
Opinions?
I tend to agree with those who favor N/A as well. Making a strong engine stronger will set it up better for power adders at a later date..BUT..I am 3 years into a six-year warranty, and I'm afraid that altering some of the components, no matter how good the install, will void that warranty.
Opinions?
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