I just got my car dynoed this last Saturday (12/14/02) and did a lot better then I was expecting to.... Here's the results:

330.7 rwhp and 342.0 rwtq with the cutout cap closed
339.4 rwhp and 349.8 rwtq with the cutout open

I got it done during a Southern California Camaro Connections monthly meeting.. the event was a dyno day... the results were higher than most of the other cars there (a supercharged LT1 and a 67 with a 540ci rat motor kicked my butt). What does a normal '02 LS1 run with my performance mods (filter and exhaust)? Thanks

 

Well I picked up 22 with just and FIPK and another 12 with a cut out, for a total of 34. I assume you're an M6 and 305 to 315 stock isn't uncommon for an M6, a little better than average, but not uncommon.

So give yourself 30-35 from the FIPK and the cutout, you're pretty much in the ballbark

 

Yes, the car is an M6. The guy at the dyno said the car actually has a little more in it, but at around 4500 rpm I start getting some pinging (Thank you 91 octane gas with those stupid additives). And one more thing just for clarity... Several people in the past thought I had headers from the way my sig is phrased... I don't have headers, it's an exhaust system Thorley was looking to sell, they used my car as a prototype. Thorley installed it, but used Jardine parts, it's a cat-back.

Does anybody know how to stop the pinging without using octane boosters? The guy at the dyno shop suggested using Torco brand booster... anybody heard about this product?

 

I have not heard of that octane booster, but i too am having problems with pinging. Thanx to the lovely California 91 octane. There is a 76 station with 100 ocatne unleaded race fuel at the pump. Im gonna run a mix of it and 91 to get about 94-95 octane, (I have the predator and want to advance the timing), I tried an octane booster called clear power which is supposed to be really good, but it didnt help. The amount of octane booster I would have to put in every tank would cost more than mixing in some 100 octane. Im gonna try this mix for the first time tommrow, I hope it works. Good luck with your ping.

jp

 

I don't know what else can be done other than boosters, but one thing for sure is you can retard the timing I believe.

Nate

 

Well I know of one way to get rid of the pinging... and that's to get LS1 Edit ($500) and then get it dyno tuned ($150/hr * 2 hours min). It just seems like there should be an easier way to deal with this correctly. That's a lot of money for an extra couple horsepower. Are there any long term negative effects of leaving it with a little pinging in the higher RPM range?

 

An easier and less expensive way, might be to get a MAFT and just adjust your AF/R at WOT.

Did you get an AF/R reading when you got your dyno?? If so what was it?

 

He had the readings, but I didn't keep them. I didn't know what to do with them and didn't even think to keep them... I can always go get it redone, it was cheap. What do the numbers look like and what do they tell me? I've seen the MAFT's, but how do you use one? Do I need to get ahold of LS1 Edit and get the readings from that to adjust it properly?

 

9 hp due to cutout....im gettin one now

 

You didn't keep the dyno graph sheet and the data sheet?

If you didn't , the shop normally keeps the file in the data base and they will probably print you another one.

You want your AF/R to be about 12.5 to 12.9 across the board, if you can tune it in there. If you were pinging, then you're AF/R may have been pushing 14+ ... too lean.

With the MAFT, Edit is not neccesary or vice versa. Though Edit is certainly more flexible and has a higher level of granularity than a MAFT. But the MAFT is certainly cheaper.

When you tune with the MAFT, though - Edit also, for that matter - you need to be monitoring your AF/R while you make adjsutments. You can either do this while on the dyno ... do run, make an adjustment, then do another to see the effect. Or you can get ATAP or some other OBDII monitor. Then observe the effect on your O2 sensors, while you adjust MAFT for thier optimum. Tuning on the dyno is generally considered the more accurate method.

Good Luck.

 

I kept the dyno graph, but they didn't print out the other info. So all I have is the graph. No extra data sheet... :-( I'll go back tomorrow and see if they can print out the data sheet since it's about 2 blocks from the office. Thanks for the info about the A/F ratio... I'll definately look into it... Is autotap using the stock o2 sensors enough to get this right or do I need to get it on the dyno with some wideband o2 sensors? Is autotap for a single car or would a shop/dyno place have a scan tool of some sort so I don't have to buy it? I'll post more info when/if I can get the data sheet. Thanks a ton for the info and the help!

 

If you have your graph ... there should be a 3rd line at the bottom of the graph that would be you AF/R, if it was included in you dyno run and the dyno had the capabilty.

 

My dyno numbers from last week were as follows to give ya an idea of the LS-1's:

342rwhp 349rwtq - at the rear wheels
398hp 405tq - at the flywheel

 

Those numbers aren't bad! You have a few more mods than me, like the headers, but I'll get there someday!

My dyno graph did not have a third line showing the A/F ratio, so I guess I was mistaken about them actually taking readings on the car. It's a fairly audible ping at the higher rpm's, so I guess that's what he was going from. I guess I'll just have to go get another pull done and get all the readings this time. Thanks for the help.

 

Yeah when they dyno'ed my car the told me I was running rich and that with tuning I could get a definite 10hp additional, I may do that down the road but I was happy with those numbers for now!