I was thinking of biulding a motor with one but I was told that even after I upgrade the valve springs, they would need to be changed every 20K miles . Is this true? I don't want to biuld something I can't drive reliably and I do ALOT of driving.

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The lift is rated at .642/.612

I was going for springs that could sustain .650 -- I was hoping I wouldnt need to replace them anytime soon?

 

I ran the TPS torquer cam 233/233 .595/.595 112 LSA for 45000 miles using the PRC dual springs and they were still good when I changed them out. That cam is similar to the F14.

 

That cam is not at all similar to the F14 the OP is describing. He actually has the F14HL or whatever that uses a much more aggressive intake lobe. Most springs even when setup properly will not last too long with those lobes.

Either go more conservative with the cam, deal with the maintenance required for that cam, or just get Comps 921 springs and set them up correctly and they will last much longer than the PRC or Patriot offerings.

 

You're describing the F14HL, not the F14.

I ran the F14HL in my car for nearly 2 years (commuting 80 miles a day for a good year+) with no mishaps. The PRC Duals/Patriot Golds are great springs.

Did you call Futral yet and ask them?

Mike

 

No

It's an automatic reflex whenever some technical or life related question should come up to load firefox and type www.camaroz28.com

But I actually really didn't think of calling the retailer because I don't want them to just "try to sell me".

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What would the combo of the F14HL Cam and stage 2.5 ported heads (Texas Speed) do? I was also considering the MS3 cam because Texas Speed offers that with a heads/cam package.

Oh and also if I decide to rebuild the bottom end later with a 383, I was told that the Cam's lift would push my valves into the pistons if I did a 383 stroker. I was seriously thinking of a Forged 383 with a procharger after the heads/cam job. Would shorter pushrods and modified rockers solve the clearance issues or is that something I shouldn't risk?

 

Ask yourself why you want a cam designed for an N/A application only to "throw" a supercharger on later. I am not trying to be mean. You just don't want to have mismatched parts, and leave power on the table if you plan to spend that kind of money.

 

It would probably push your valves into your pistons.

The HL cams are more for cam-only stuff. Any milling to the heads will cause PtV clearance issues when using the HL cams and flat-tops. You'd need to either flycut the pistons for clearance or run non-milled heads.

Once again: Call Futral.

Read the above.

Any NA heads/cam setup is not going to work worth a **** for a FI setup.

Shorter pushrods? Modified rockers? Clearance issues? WTF, dude. That has nothing to do with anything.

 

Call futral, they dont gimmick you. They hooked me up with F-13 that kraest recommended, plus Patriot dual springs. I hear the patriots with something under .600 lift and moderate driving last a good 40k-50k. I have a 408 stroker with the F-13 and I love it, and although you might WANT to add more power later, such a thing doesnt work when modding cars. NO OFFENSE but crap like "faast and the fuuuriously stupid" makes people think parts work like LEGO's.

and i'm not trying to tell you that you don't know what you're doing, but these guys with 2 or 3k posts and cars boasting 10 sec slips, they aren't lying and they know their shiz. *edit: sorry didnt realize you had thousands of posts haha* And I do agree with you that MOST shops just try to sell u things.

The duration and lift in camshafts are all based on millisecond to nanosecond time-scaled fluid dynamics. the combustion chamber flows air radically different with a standard atmospheric pressure intake compared to forced (6-8psi) intake. Things like valve overlap and valve even duration dictate EVERYTHING about how an engine behaves and you need to take ALL aspects of your mods into consideration because it only works one way. You can't build a motor in-between-style or else you end up loosing a ridiculous amount of efficiency. If that happens why did you mod it? you might loose power. I've seen it before.

 

Okay, Heads/Cam for a power adder is radically different than a N/A setup (and presumably a lot milder too.) - I'll call Futral this Monday.

I do alot of stuff external engine wise but when it comes to internals I tend to shy away.

So with this large cam, I don't want to get ported heads or anything of that like, will stock L92 heads be ok?

Also, Im just wondering, what do those numbers on the heads mean? I believe LS1 heads are 241's, are they just a label or do they actually represent anything (I.E. the higher the value the better flowing they are)

 

L92 heads should not be used on anything smaller than a 4.060" bore. What are you working with?

241 is the head casting number. It's just a designation, similar to a part number. Each casting has certain features and characteristics that others may or may not have.

 

If you're building a full motor, you'll want those heads ported/polished/milled, etc.

Yeah.... do yourself a favor and call Futral.

 

Trying to go with a LQ4/LQ9 but I might have to drop down to an LS1 meaning I'll go with stage 2.5 heads/MS3 cam (a combo @ texas speed).

Speaking of LQ4's, I have heard that I would need an 04 and up motor because anything below that will not bolt up to the A4 Transmission due to a spacer on the crank, is this true?