cheapest way to hit 410rwhp?
cheapest way to hit 410rwhp?
I was thinking in selling my A4 and getting a 01/02 M6 and I'm just talking about engine mods for the cheapest way without resulting to heads and still able to pass inspection. I'll figure out the 12 bolt ect after. Thanks.
Hopefully there's a way to stay under $3000. (Not counting labor)
I was thinking a TR224, fast90/90, intake/exhaust, dyno tune, Lt's w/ cats, underdrive. But will that be enough to hit 410?
EDIT:I could take the underdrive/intake off my car now so don't count that $500.00.
Hopefully there's a way to stay under $3000. (Not counting labor)
I was thinking a TR224, fast90/90, intake/exhaust, dyno tune, Lt's w/ cats, underdrive. But will that be enough to hit 410?
EDIT:I could take the underdrive/intake off my car now so don't count that $500.00.
1. Airbox lid.
2. LT headers and Y pipe with cats.
3. Custom true duals
4. Cam
5. Dyno tune
With the right cam, that will do it. You don't need the FAST intake -- the stock LS6 intake on the '01-02 cars is enough for that power level. The underdrive pulleys will help a little, and you already have them, so that's cool.
Take the money you're not spending on the intake manifold and spend it on a high-quality set of stainless steel, tuned-primary headers from Kooks or QTP. It's worth it. The difference in power you'll see compared to cheap headers will be bigger than the difference you'd see between the LS6 intake and the FAST.
The most important step here is to make sure that you go to someone with lots of experience tuning LSx engines.
IIRC, Kraest got 414rwhp in his cam+full exhaust C5 on a Futral F14 high lift cam.
I just had my car dynoed 3 days ago with the mods in my sig . The car was tuned with a mustang dyno not a dynojet . 95 Degree heat and 65% humidity .
NA - 400.3 HP @6039 RPMS
378.4 ft #'s @ 4780 RPMS
NA - 400.3 HP @6039 RPMS
378.4 ft #'s @ 4780 RPMS
I've never seen so many abbreviations in one place in my entire life. What is an SLP FS? Your heads are by PP -- who is that?
Which brings up an important point. To the OP, do you want that 410 on a Dynojet, Dynapack, or Mustang dyno?
Dyno numbers are usually corrected using an SAE formula to cancel out variations in temperature and humidity.
Which brings up an important point. To the OP, do you want that 410 on a Dynojet, Dynapack, or Mustang dyno?
Dyno numbers are usually corrected using an SAE formula to cancel out variations in temperature and humidity.
[QUOTE=JakeRobb;5591964]I've never seen so many abbreviations in one place in my entire life. What is an SLP FS? Your heads are by PP -- who is that ?
Which brings up an important point. To the OP, do you want that 410 on a Dynojet, Dynapack, or Mustang dyno?
Dyno numbers are usually corrected using an SAE formula to cancel out variations in temperature and humidity.[/QUOTE
SLP FS = Street legal performance fan switch
PP = Patriot performance heads
Which brings up an important point. To the OP, do you want that 410 on a Dynojet, Dynapack, or Mustang dyno?
Dyno numbers are usually corrected using an SAE formula to cancel out variations in temperature and humidity.[/QUOTE
SLP FS = Street legal performance fan switch
PP = Patriot performance heads
Last edited by Zitty'sZ; Sep 20, 2008 at 04:19 PM.

This current car has the F14 HL and put down 415. My Vette had the F15 on a 112+2 and put down 4-teens. The F-14 HL is 10x more driveable than the F-15 and makes a ton more low-end IMO.
For cheap fun, I'd do:
RAM Powergrip HD clutch - $425
Pacesetter Coated LTs - $369
Texas-Speed Tru-Duals $439
Futral F13 or F14 high-lift w/springs, retainers, oil pump, LS2 timing set - $800
Used LS6 intake - $300-325
4.10s - $225
But some of that might not pass "inspections." What kind of inspection are you talking about?
nice vid kraest, I was talking a dynojet and I could get vettedoctors to do the tuning and they're real good with any LS. Inspection would probally just be just a plug in. This guy won't really check for cat position. Thanks for the help.
I was also looking at procharger dynos at about 5psi with the P-1SC head unit and is it true that the dynos typically show only 430-440rwhp. 6-7grand seems like a big waste when you can break 410 maybe 425 with only 3000 in mods.
Would you guys think the stock rear would hold up at 410-425 without slicks or a racetrack compound. Maybe just try to get by with stronger gears and a stud girdle.
Looks like I will go with a Tr224 cam with a 114LSA and some higher quality headers than the origonal pacesetters I was looking at.
Would you guys think the stock rear would hold up at 410-425 without slicks or a racetrack compound. Maybe just try to get by with stronger gears and a stud girdle.
Looks like I will go with a Tr224 cam with a 114LSA and some higher quality headers than the origonal pacesetters I was looking at.
while i don't disagree with you Al...
for me...and my car....i have the most fun between the speeds of 25mph and 125mph.
for the most part, i could care less what it does off the line.
i've never been to a track and never had a stoplight street race. but i've done a couple rolling races. not to mention having fun passing
for me...and my car....i have the most fun between the speeds of 25mph and 125mph.
for the most part, i could care less what it does off the line.
i've never been to a track and never had a stoplight street race. but i've done a couple rolling races. not to mention having fun passing



