I can say the TB bypass is a worthless mod because I have it on my car and it showed zero gain. Your results may vary, but it did nothing for me. The principle is sound about a cooler intake charge, but the results didn't back it up. The throttle body must hold much less heat than the manifold (even though it is composite) because icing the manifold works (even on a dyno). I would also be a little concerned about having the bypass in cold weather, but I am in Florida and don't worry about it. If it makes you feel good, by all means try it...I was just sharing my experience.

 

True, it certainly wouldn't show noticeable power gains. Nothing a dyno would pick up, heck those things have an almost 10 HP margin of error.
I will note that it took the bypass with a lower temp stat and fan switch to get rid of my KR after I ported my MAF. The cooler intake charge aids in cooling the combustion chamber which reduces detonation and even allows the potential for the PCM to add timing.
Dave

 

Dave,
Glad it helped you with the KR. For the money (less than $10), I guess it can't hurt, but ehhh. Mods that have worked well for me have been the FTRA (used&cheap), MACS (used&cheap), BMR LCAs and PH rod (LCAs new), TNT F1 kit with ProPurge (used&cheap) and Nittos (new). If you shop around you can go fast without spending much. Regards! Ben

 

headwork, cam, hooker lt's, cat-back
you'll be in the 12's easy

 

I have one thing to add...replace the pcv valve and do some sort of the pcv mod..there are a few ways to do that. Once that is done, you almost have to run at least one can of GM topend cleaner through the car.

I just did that to my 98 with 57k on it and it cured my hesitation and lack of power in the upper rpm range.

The car feels like it gained 40 horsepower. Due to knock retard and such that I know (no autotap, but I just know) it had.

 

Great point.
Just a light mist of oil in the fuel mixture can lower your fuel octane by ungodly amounts. Then after combustion, it leaves carbon buildup in the chamber which raises compression ratios even more... compounding the problem.
Dave

 

Lid and K and N with low temp thermo stat and lower fans....13.6 @104 with a 2.3 60Ft

75 dry NOS...12.9 @113 with a 2.3 60ft...


If I get some tires..... I figure 13.2 and 12.2 with NOS.

all that for under a 1K on a 2000 SS with slp mods.

 

So you guys that are removing the PCV, are you using a catch-can, or what? Sounds like something I'd be interesed in doing...

 

I'm looking to buy a black 98 Z28 myself also and if you bought yours for $9,950? Is there something wrong with it or ? The ones I've been looking at cost at least $15k. LMK

 

I haven't come up with a complete solution yet. I am thinking about a catch can, but I don't know which one to get. I am also thinking of a good air compressor filter or something like that.

Right now I have a cheap clear spectre fuel filter I ran down by the battery and then back up to the manifold. I thought this would be good so I could see how much oil I am getting in the line. I am getting some to the filter but it doesn't seem to be making it to the intake, but I am sure some probably is.

Any suggestions would be good, especially ones that are cheap

 

am no LS1 expert, but running a dry shot is some dangerous **** crap... if u gunna run nawwzzzzzzz i'd reccomend a Wet kit, and more then 1 noid for n2o, cuz, my engine went boom after my noid got stuck open from

but I have alot of friends that do pretty low 13s in LS1, so with some more mods, 12s are very reachable.

good luck reaching 12s man! Hopefully i'll be around there one day with my **** v6