Basic Performance Upgrades ?
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2
Basic Performance Upgrades ?
Hey Guys, im new here. How are yall doing ? I just purchased or is in the works atleast, dealers gotta tie up some paper work and ill be getting delievery of a 2001 ss camaro (used) . It a Manual 6 speed Ls1. I got some money left over that i wouldnt mind dumping under the hood. What would you guys suggest i look into. Im looking for more hp for the $. I dont think im ready for Nitrous setups yet. Other than that what would you guys suggest for basic performance upgrades. Any thoughts or info on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and have a great day 
P.S ..which brands do you guys prefer on your rides? Im looking to see which brands I should go with for aftermarket performance and which not to go with aswell
P.S ..which brands do you guys prefer on your rides? Im looking to see which brands I should go with for aftermarket performance and which not to go with aswell
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 614
From: Auburn, California
Air lid and a cat-back system are the must first mods. I K&N filter is also good. Other good ones to do are headers, cutout. Don't forget suspension and chassis mods like sub-frame connectors and a strut tower brace, etc.....
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,713
From: Orlando, Florida, USA
It all depends on just how much money you want to spend.
Go to www.installuniversity.com and read about the "free mods". The only one I've done is the FRA (Free Ram Air) mod. I might try the Throttle Bump Stop mod someday. But I'm not too concerned about that .5 horsepower gain.
Air lid - The first mod should be the air lid if it hasn't already been changed. They're all about the same performance wise. Just get a cheap one for around $100. DMS sells one. That's where I got mine.
Cat Back Exhaust - The car will probably already have an SLP Cat Back. They flow pretty good already. I'd consider just replacing the muffler rather than the entire setup if you decide to upgrade. It'll be much cheaper, look stock and will still flow just as good as any complete aftermarket catback system.
Air Filter - Here's the big debate topic around here. Oiled foam filters or stock paper? Do what you want. I have a K&N. I didn't notice any difference in performance. I'll probably change it back to the original paper filter if I can ever remember to do it. The oil can gum up your MAF sensor if there is too much on the filter. Not enough and it will allow small dirt and dust particles to run through the engine. PsychoCabbage has even shown dyno evidence that he lost hp with the K&N vs the stock paper filter.
ECM Reprogramming - Lots of different options here. You can take it to a dyno shop. You can do it via mailorder. You can do it yourself with easy to use handheld programmers. Or even go all out with LS1Edit and AutoTap systems. Lets start with handhelds. They run about $350 -$425. Hypertech is probably the easiest but has the least amount of features. The Diablosport Predator works the same but also incorporates a scanner into the tool that lets you monitor sensors throughout the car in real time as well as read and clear trouble codes and adjust gear ratios, speed limiters, fan temps, rev limiters.... It also lets you adjust spark advance and a/f ratios along with lots of other things too. It is supposed to disable the CAGS (Computer Aided Gear Selection) system. Mine didn't disable it. Everything else worked as advertised though and they will send me a custom made tuning setup as soon as I fax them a copy of my dyno sheet. From TByrne it comes with a 160 or 180 degree thermostat free. Good deal. I think Superchips has finally come out with one too but I haven't heard any reviews on it. LS1Edit allows you to dig right into all of the tables and settings for EVERYTHING that is controlled by the computer. It is definately an advanced user tool. It also requires some kind of sensor monitoring device such as Autotap software that runs through a laptop and a special cord that plugs into the OBDII port. All of the programmers access via this port BTW.
CAGS Removal/adjustment - You can buy an adapter that plugs into the harness by the transmission and lets you hit 2nd gear anytime. No more CAGS. But it can also be disabled with the programmers listed above. I've also heard of people using LS1Edit to tweak the settings of the CAGS system to prevent shifting from 3rd to second at speeds over 65mph. The 3 to 2 shift is a frequent problem that bends pushrods and valves and damages pistons especially on cars taken to the dragstrip a lot. I've done it once and hope to never do it again. The rev limiter won't help you when you dowshift from 3rd to 2nd at 95mph.
Long Tube Headers - Hookers are good quality, moderately priced and have minimal clearance issues compared to other brands. You can pick up a set with JetHot coating and an offroad Y Pipe (no catalytic converters) for around $800. But then you'll have to disable a parameter in the computer that monitors the cats for proper functionality. If you don't, you'll always have the SES light shining away on the instrument cluster. You can disable with LS1Edit or by intsalling O2 Simulators (~$100) into the wire harness where the (now missing) rear oxygen sensors were located. You can also get Y Pipes that have cats but what's the point? (Unless you have strict emmission inspections in your state)
After that you get into high flow cylinder heads and cam shafts. I'm not going that far with mine anytime soon so I don't know too much about it. Rather than possibly give you bad information I'll leave that alone. The same goes for Nitrous, superchargers and turbos. All are available. But you've got to be really serious to go that far. Any of the three can blow a motor in no time flat if you don't do it right.
You said you wanted info on hp mods. But consider a few suspension mods too. You can spend around $400 to $1,000 and increase the cars fun factor a ton.
DMS springs - $150.
Suspension Technologies solid 35mm front sway bar - $150.
Bilstein HD shocks - $350 - $450 depending on which ones. Sam Strano (www.stranoparts.com)can get them revalved to work with your car's suspension. He knows his stuff. He'll tell you it's almost impossible to revalve shocks to respond right with progressive rate springs (such as DMS, LG Motorsports, some Eibachs...). But it'll at least be better than the stock Decarbons or the Bilstein HD's with stock valving.
BMR STB (Strut Tower Brace) - $100. Stiffens the front chassis during cornering.
SFC's (Subframe Connectors) - $150 - $500 Stiffens the entire chassis. Helps to avoid rattles and noises as well as misaligned TTops and doors.
Decide what you want the car to do. Make a plan. Go for it.
Go to www.installuniversity.com and read about the "free mods". The only one I've done is the FRA (Free Ram Air) mod. I might try the Throttle Bump Stop mod someday. But I'm not too concerned about that .5 horsepower gain.
Air lid - The first mod should be the air lid if it hasn't already been changed. They're all about the same performance wise. Just get a cheap one for around $100. DMS sells one. That's where I got mine.
Cat Back Exhaust - The car will probably already have an SLP Cat Back. They flow pretty good already. I'd consider just replacing the muffler rather than the entire setup if you decide to upgrade. It'll be much cheaper, look stock and will still flow just as good as any complete aftermarket catback system.
Air Filter - Here's the big debate topic around here. Oiled foam filters or stock paper? Do what you want. I have a K&N. I didn't notice any difference in performance. I'll probably change it back to the original paper filter if I can ever remember to do it. The oil can gum up your MAF sensor if there is too much on the filter. Not enough and it will allow small dirt and dust particles to run through the engine. PsychoCabbage has even shown dyno evidence that he lost hp with the K&N vs the stock paper filter.
ECM Reprogramming - Lots of different options here. You can take it to a dyno shop. You can do it via mailorder. You can do it yourself with easy to use handheld programmers. Or even go all out with LS1Edit and AutoTap systems. Lets start with handhelds. They run about $350 -$425. Hypertech is probably the easiest but has the least amount of features. The Diablosport Predator works the same but also incorporates a scanner into the tool that lets you monitor sensors throughout the car in real time as well as read and clear trouble codes and adjust gear ratios, speed limiters, fan temps, rev limiters.... It also lets you adjust spark advance and a/f ratios along with lots of other things too. It is supposed to disable the CAGS (Computer Aided Gear Selection) system. Mine didn't disable it. Everything else worked as advertised though and they will send me a custom made tuning setup as soon as I fax them a copy of my dyno sheet. From TByrne it comes with a 160 or 180 degree thermostat free. Good deal. I think Superchips has finally come out with one too but I haven't heard any reviews on it. LS1Edit allows you to dig right into all of the tables and settings for EVERYTHING that is controlled by the computer. It is definately an advanced user tool. It also requires some kind of sensor monitoring device such as Autotap software that runs through a laptop and a special cord that plugs into the OBDII port. All of the programmers access via this port BTW.
CAGS Removal/adjustment - You can buy an adapter that plugs into the harness by the transmission and lets you hit 2nd gear anytime. No more CAGS. But it can also be disabled with the programmers listed above. I've also heard of people using LS1Edit to tweak the settings of the CAGS system to prevent shifting from 3rd to second at speeds over 65mph. The 3 to 2 shift is a frequent problem that bends pushrods and valves and damages pistons especially on cars taken to the dragstrip a lot. I've done it once and hope to never do it again. The rev limiter won't help you when you dowshift from 3rd to 2nd at 95mph.
Long Tube Headers - Hookers are good quality, moderately priced and have minimal clearance issues compared to other brands. You can pick up a set with JetHot coating and an offroad Y Pipe (no catalytic converters) for around $800. But then you'll have to disable a parameter in the computer that monitors the cats for proper functionality. If you don't, you'll always have the SES light shining away on the instrument cluster. You can disable with LS1Edit or by intsalling O2 Simulators (~$100) into the wire harness where the (now missing) rear oxygen sensors were located. You can also get Y Pipes that have cats but what's the point? (Unless you have strict emmission inspections in your state)
After that you get into high flow cylinder heads and cam shafts. I'm not going that far with mine anytime soon so I don't know too much about it. Rather than possibly give you bad information I'll leave that alone. The same goes for Nitrous, superchargers and turbos. All are available. But you've got to be really serious to go that far. Any of the three can blow a motor in no time flat if you don't do it right.
You said you wanted info on hp mods. But consider a few suspension mods too. You can spend around $400 to $1,000 and increase the cars fun factor a ton.
DMS springs - $150.
Suspension Technologies solid 35mm front sway bar - $150.
Bilstein HD shocks - $350 - $450 depending on which ones. Sam Strano (www.stranoparts.com)can get them revalved to work with your car's suspension. He knows his stuff. He'll tell you it's almost impossible to revalve shocks to respond right with progressive rate springs (such as DMS, LG Motorsports, some Eibachs...). But it'll at least be better than the stock Decarbons or the Bilstein HD's with stock valving.
BMR STB (Strut Tower Brace) - $100. Stiffens the front chassis during cornering.
SFC's (Subframe Connectors) - $150 - $500 Stiffens the entire chassis. Helps to avoid rattles and noises as well as misaligned TTops and doors.
Decide what you want the car to do. Make a plan. Go for it.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 96
A lid is the first thing to do. I went with the SLP lid. As far as a cat back goes, how old are you, if you want to be noticed go with one of these because there usually quite a bit louder. Unfortunately the cops will notice you also. If you want to open up the exhaust, do it right with a set of headers. I'd recommend the Jet Hots or Hookers. There's other nicer ones out there like QTP's, but who wants to spend $1800 for headers. You can get the Jet Hots or Hookers for around $600-$700. you also need a cold air induction(CAI) kit. Many people like the Super Sucker Ram Air(SSRA). I've seen this website for it. www.austinperformanceinc.com
I'd avoid MAF ends, throttle bodies, wires, and the HyperTech power programmer.
Hope this helps.
I'd avoid MAF ends, throttle bodies, wires, and the HyperTech power programmer.
Hope this helps.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,713
From: Orlando, Florida, USA
Avoid the SSRA and the FTRA induction scoops. It's way to easy to suck water into the motor with these. The FRA mod is almost as good without attaching a super straw to the bottom of the air box.
I'm currently working on my buddy's 99 Firehawk. He sucked up water. Hydrolocked the motor. Then tried to start it. The starter ripped itself apart ($200) and busted of a vital portion of the block where the starter bolts up. It's not worth it.Hopefully he doesn't have any internal damage. Only one way to find out though. Remove the plugs, fix the starter/block, spin the motor, run compression test, reassemble, pray, pray, pray...
I'm currently working on my buddy's 99 Firehawk. He sucked up water. Hydrolocked the motor. Then tried to start it. The starter ripped itself apart ($200) and busted of a vital portion of the block where the starter bolts up. It's not worth it.Hopefully he doesn't have any internal damage. Only one way to find out though. Remove the plugs, fix the starter/block, spin the motor, run compression test, reassemble, pray, pray, pray...
Last edited by 2002Z28SSConv; Jul 3, 2003 at 02:58 AM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2
Hey thanks a lot for all the info guys, im 23 right now, i really dont have much money for the MODS(mommy and daddy arent helping me any on this one and i have plans to move out as well soon)..(i have around 6000 saved up) but im thinking of keeping this money for future expenses just in case. You know all cars have wearable parts and i have no clue how this cars tranny breaks tires are gonna perform like on the road not to mention suspension(its used afterall who knows how the previous owner treated it ). Out of that 6000 i might put 3000-4000 for mods and keep the rest of it for expenses just in case.
Ferocity02, zoomjrl, 2002Z28SSConv, XTZ I appreciate the wealth of information you guy have provided me with. Im still very new at this and having trouble understanding some of it..i used to own an old GM a-body until i had enough of dumping money into it and see it hardly break 15.5. And i have a lot of competition in my area. Guys in their swapped Civics/ built stangs/ Acuras/ Toyotas you name it we got it here. Well i guess now im gonna get picked on more. But as i spend time with this car my knowledge of it will grow and i might be able to show tail lights to all of the above competitors at the track.
2002Z28SSconv...my plans for the car are as such. I want it basically drag ready. Now im not hoping for this to happen over night. I know im in for some looooooong nights and sweat breaking days ahead, but if i can look back at it and feel happy about it ..all i can say is ..MISSION ACCOMPLISHED.
I really dont see myself taking it to a road course or anything else to take on with my current schedule. In my area almost everyone drags either at the track or on isolated roads when no ones around. (i know street racing is bad). Still i wouldnt mind looking into some of those suspension mods you suggested.
so by priority of mods i should go with the following : (im still newbie at this so bear with me here )
1) Lid with filter (k & N)
2) Free flow mufflers. (basically looking to reduce the resistance down the exhaust flow. Ill keep my cats for now just for emission reasons plus i need to learn more about this methond you have said 2002z28ssconv.
3) headers (hookers / jet hot ) ..what makes qtp so expensive ?
4) 80mm throttle body/ tune ECM / upgrade injectors ( i might need to play with the ecm for this one right ? increased input of air need increased fuel input as well..to create the right compression ? )
5) Suspension mods
Think i can do this all for about 4gs ?
..if i can id love to. But im gonna first get used to the car and way it is stock. And then move on from there
Ps : i didnt forget bout you either mr. Bone maro. Nice to see you have your mods all planned out and set to go or already going..lol...is that your car in your avatar ? looks good sir
Thanks again guys for all the info...i appreciate it
NOTE: just a side note here the K&N filter did make a difference on the old a-body i guess its not really worth it on the f-bodies eh ? but i think i might go for it and get the charger kit for it
Ferocity02, zoomjrl, 2002Z28SSConv, XTZ I appreciate the wealth of information you guy have provided me with. Im still very new at this and having trouble understanding some of it..i used to own an old GM a-body until i had enough of dumping money into it and see it hardly break 15.5. And i have a lot of competition in my area. Guys in their swapped Civics/ built stangs/ Acuras/ Toyotas you name it we got it here. Well i guess now im gonna get picked on more. But as i spend time with this car my knowledge of it will grow and i might be able to show tail lights to all of the above competitors at the track.
2002Z28SSconv...my plans for the car are as such. I want it basically drag ready. Now im not hoping for this to happen over night. I know im in for some looooooong nights and sweat breaking days ahead, but if i can look back at it and feel happy about it ..all i can say is ..MISSION ACCOMPLISHED.
I really dont see myself taking it to a road course or anything else to take on with my current schedule. In my area almost everyone drags either at the track or on isolated roads when no ones around. (i know street racing is bad). Still i wouldnt mind looking into some of those suspension mods you suggested
. so by priority of mods i should go with the following : (im still newbie at this so bear with me here
) 1) Lid with filter (k & N)
2) Free flow mufflers. (basically looking to reduce the resistance down the exhaust flow. Ill keep my cats for now just for emission reasons plus i need to learn more about this methond you have said 2002z28ssconv.
3) headers (hookers / jet hot ) ..what makes qtp so expensive ?
4) 80mm throttle body/ tune ECM / upgrade injectors ( i might need to play with the ecm for this one right ? increased input of air need increased fuel input as well..to create the right compression ? )
5) Suspension mods
Think i can do this all for about 4gs ?
..if i can id love to. But im gonna first get used to the car and way it is stock. And then move on from therePs : i didnt forget bout you either mr. Bone maro. Nice to see you have your mods all planned out and set to go or already going..lol...is that your car in your avatar ? looks good sir
Thanks again guys for all the info...i appreciate it
NOTE: just a side note here the K&N filter did make a difference on the old a-body
i guess its not really worth it on the f-bodies eh ? but i think i might go for it and get the charger kit for it
Last edited by SpeedyGonzalez; Jul 3, 2003 at 12:10 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 614
From: Auburn, California
Don't get the BBK TB, its WAY overpriced. Get it when you are making over 450hp. A stock TB works great. Get it ported and you will add a couple HP.
No need for the injectors, again unless you are running big HP or forced induction. Tuning is a great thing to do.
Suspension should be higher on your list, in my opinion. Depeneds on what you want I guess. Sub-frame connectors are a great mod and really stiffen up the car. I drove a friends car with them and the handling is more firm. I have yet to get them but I will soon.
For exhaust there are tons of options for a cat-back system. I have Flowmaster, the previous owner installed it, but it sounds nice. I would have gotten something like the SLP Loudmouth. It's very cheap and sounds great. Hooker, Magnaflow, Dynomouth, Borla, and Corsa are other good ones.
Another suggestion would be a shifter. Look into the B&M Ripper Shifter or the Pro 5.0. Both are great. Speed Inc is having a sale very soon where the Pro 5.0's are being sold for $165! Normally $180.
Good Luck
No need for the injectors, again unless you are running big HP or forced induction. Tuning is a great thing to do.
Suspension should be higher on your list, in my opinion. Depeneds on what you want I guess. Sub-frame connectors are a great mod and really stiffen up the car. I drove a friends car with them and the handling is more firm. I have yet to get them but I will soon.
For exhaust there are tons of options for a cat-back system. I have Flowmaster, the previous owner installed it, but it sounds nice. I would have gotten something like the SLP Loudmouth. It's very cheap and sounds great. Hooker, Magnaflow, Dynomouth, Borla, and Corsa are other good ones.
Another suggestion would be a shifter. Look into the B&M Ripper Shifter or the Pro 5.0. Both are great. Speed Inc is having a sale very soon where the Pro 5.0's are being sold for $165! Normally $180.
Good Luck
Registered User
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 2,368
From: OR
My recepie for a well behaved street car:
AirLid and catback for cool sounds and some easy hp..
shifter and cags removal - get it! i think I got these from ThunderRacing.. more or less all catbacks are equal in performance.. get the one you think sounds the best.. also take note of what material its made of.
SFC's - good insurance........... I have boxed BMR.. also doubles as a jacking point
shocks and front swaybar - no more floaty feeling, better front roll control and front camber control ( got revalved Bilstiens and a sold 35 mm bar from Sam)
T2R diff - putting power down smoothly, especially out of turns is sooooo much nicer now.. No more peglegging when one wheel becomes unloaded with the stock T2.. no clutches to replace (Auburn). I got this from Sam too.
Brakes - Right now i'm running aftermarket rotors and HPS pads.. and soon to be installed, C5 front brake upgrade.. (Bob Bishop)
17" SLP takeoffs - look good and cheap.. Needed for the C5 brakes
----
The beauty of these mods improve performance, while not detracting from value or daily drivability and comfort. Stuff like this could have came from the factory, if they were willing to spend the extra $$$..
AirLid and catback for cool sounds and some easy hp..
shifter and cags removal - get it! i think I got these from ThunderRacing.. more or less all catbacks are equal in performance.. get the one you think sounds the best.. also take note of what material its made of.
SFC's - good insurance........... I have boxed BMR.. also doubles as a jacking point
shocks and front swaybar - no more floaty feeling, better front roll control and front camber control ( got revalved Bilstiens and a sold 35 mm bar from Sam)
T2R diff - putting power down smoothly, especially out of turns is sooooo much nicer now.. No more peglegging when one wheel becomes unloaded with the stock T2.. no clutches to replace (Auburn). I got this from Sam too.
Brakes - Right now i'm running aftermarket rotors and HPS pads.. and soon to be installed, C5 front brake upgrade.. (Bob Bishop)
17" SLP takeoffs - look good and cheap.. Needed for the C5 brakes
----
The beauty of these mods improve performance, while not detracting from value or daily drivability and comfort. Stuff like this could have came from the factory, if they were willing to spend the extra $$$..
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