JBF94SC

Ok guys i use to have a 94 Trans Am that went 12.8's that i did all the work to. Now i'm crossing over to the LS1 i will have about $1000 to drop into this car from the start what would make it the fastest for the least money? I was thinking get a Lid, Short shifter, and Catback to start then once i get some money together get a set of long tubes. Iam open to options but i would really like to get this car close to 110 mph before LTs tell me how to get there and what company of parts have worked for you. The car is a 1999 SS 6spd with 42k, T-tops, and Traction Control if that matters at all on this model. What kind of MPH should this car turn stock? Driven well of coarse i know alot of 6spd owners dont drive there car even close to there potential any info or advice would be great.

Thanks
Justin Falla

JBF94SC

For instance my friend has a 2002 SS that has SLP LT headers with no cats and SLP DUAL DUAL exhaust and it is very quiet and still runs low 11s on the spray and low/mid 12s n/a i dont have to go that exact setup but i do like the way that one sounds. Also what short shifter works the best since the SS iam getting jsut has the stock shifter no hurst i would like the height and throw to be reduced what the best all around for this?

99snkklr

As a rule of thumb the LS1 clutch 98-99 SUCKS! If I were you and you plan on doing any serious racing upgrade the clutch if it's still stock. In my opinion the RAM VDS clutch kit is the best LS1 clutch out there. There are several clutches on the market for the LS1 f-bodies. The best ones out there are : RAM, MCLOUD, CLUTCHMASTERS, CARTEK, SPEC/STAR9I hear their new design is good, but the old one blows). Here is what I would do for $1000.00:
Texas Speed &Performance air lid $95.00
Fast Toys Ram Air $169.95
Bauer ported throttle body $140.00
Summit 3 inch exhaust cutout $26.95
Lou's short stick for factory Hurst $50.00
BMr tubular rear lower control arms $109.95
BMr tubular subframe connectors $139.95
Edelbrock torque arm $169.00
Used Diablo or Hypertech Power Programmer Plus $100.00
160 thermostat

I have heard the Lou's short stick on a factory Hurst is as good or pretty damn close to a Pro 5.0 and $120.00 less too. Try the cutout before you spend the cash on a complete catback. I have a cutout on my 00 WS6 and I love it. You could also gut your cats but you will get a lot of nasty rasp in the exhaust. A Ls6 intake would net you about 8-10RWHP but will set you back about $400-$450 for a new one. If you upgrade the suspension you will transfer that power much more efficiently. The stock suspension is weak and flexible, causing horsepower to be absorbed into the chassis rather then put to the ground. Subframe connectors should be the first mods for a f-body, especially for a t-tops car. Use the tuner to increase the rev limiter, turn fans on earlier, ang you can try a power tuning(some guys gain power and some lose but it doesn't hurt to try and see what happens). With some more cash you should get a clutch, 12 bolt and at least 4.10s(you could have 4.10s installed in the 10 bolt, that would give you 2-3 techths and 1-3 mph, but the 10 bolt will become VERY weak with the 4.10s), and you should get some skinny wheels and tires up front. You would gain 1-2 tenths and 1-2 mph with the skinny tires/rims. You will need some good tires. I would recommend BFG drag radials. After you get the 12 bolt get yourself some Bogart rims(15x10) with 26-11.5-15 slicks. With all of that you can be in the low 12s easily(with a GREAT TRACK and skill), add headers and 12.0-12.1 is there man!

GOOD LUCK! Welcome to the world of LS1s!

JBF94SC

Texas Speed &Performance air lid $95.00
THIS THE LID I WANTED SO I'M ON TRACK.

Fast Toys Ram Air $169.95
DOES THIS MAKE THAT BIG A DIFFERENCE OVER THE FRA?

Bauer ported throttle body $140.00
WHO IS BAUER AND ISNT THIS GOOD FOR MAYBE 3-5RWHP?

Summit 3 inch exhaust cutout $26.95
CUTOUT MOST POWER FOR MONEY YOUR RIGHT BUT I LIKE QUIET LIKE THE SLP DUAL DUAL SYSTEM ANY SYSTEMS CHEAPER AND THAT QUIET AND MAKE POWER?

Lou's short stick for factory Hurst $50.00
DONT HAVE FACTORY HURST SO LOOKS LIKE I NEED TO BUY A PRO 5.0

BMr tubular rear lower control arms $109.95
BMr tubular subframe connectors $139.95

Edelbrock torque arm $169.00
HOW IS THIS TQ ARM ANYGOOD AND DOES IT MOUNT UP EASY OR IS IT A HACK JOB TO GET IT IN HAVENT HEARD ANYTHING ABOUT THIS ONE

Used Diablo or Hypertech Power Programmer Plus $100.00
160 thermostat
AS FOR THIS I HAVE A 99 HYPERTECH WHICH DOESNT DO MUCH ITS OFF MY FRIEND OLD 99 Z28, AND AS FAR AS I KNOW ONCE A DIABLO IS INSTALL ON ONE CAR IT CANT BE PUT ON ANOTHER ONE EVER CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG


Thanks for the post!

99snkklr

The TSP lid is a high quality lid that will offer probably the highest flow of all the lids. You really can't go wrong with any lid on the market, they all are about the same but I think the TSP is just a pinch better.


The Fast Toys Ram Air will make a pretty large difference. I have the SLP ram air unit on my SS(at the time the FTRA was backordered) and I noticed a huge difference in pull at speeds above 50mph.

The Bauer ported throttle body may give you 3-5RWHP but with the induction opened up you may possibly see even more. Down the road you may decide to do a LS6 intake or even ported heads/cam, if you do the sotck TB may become a bottle neck on your motor.

I personally like the cutout's sound, some people don't. It is really cheap power and if you like a louder exhaust without a lot of cash, then the cutout is your number. I really like the SLP dual dual, but it is really heavy. It's weight may hinder any hp gains you may see. Look into the Hooker catback. It sounds really good and the rear section(muffler/tailpipes) is flanged and can be dropped at the track for better flow and loss of weight. The Corsa unit is good too.

I have the factory Hurst in my SS and my WS6 and I think they are good shifters. The problem lies in the shifter's stick. It has rubber insolators around the bolts that hold it to the shifter assembly. The LSS basically removes those and makes the shifter much more solid. I see several guys selling their OEM Hursts in the classifieds on ls1 tech, check there.

The Edelbrock torque arm is the least expensive torque arm out there and I haven't heard any bad reviews on it yet. It uses the factory mounting positions; therefore, should install easily. I believe it comes with a polyurethane mount(expect some added vibration and transmission of road noise with upgraded suspension/chassis components). The torque arm will certainly help transfer the power to the tires rather then bend and twists, which in a way "eats" your horsepower rather then transfer it.

I thought with the Diablo you can return to the car's stock programming if you wish to, just like the Hypertech unit. The tuners can only be used for one car at a time, because what they do is swap one program for another. The changes you make get stored in the car's computer and the stock programs is stored in the handheld tuner's chip. This is why you can't tune for then one car at a time. You could always go in with several other LS1 owners and purchase a LS1 EDIT set-up for multiple cars but that will cost about $1000.00, I think(but say you get 10 people to go in on it, then it's $100 or so a piece and you can change anyhting you want). I see the diablos and HPP3s for sale all the time too on LS1 tech.

If you are on a budget watch the classified sections of www.ls1tech.com , www.ls1.com , and www.camaroz28.com . MEmbers are always changing their set-ups and selling old parts for usually about 1/2 of the new value maybe less.

Trapping 110 is to difficult to be honest with you. Most 1998-2000 Ls1 M6s trap 103-108mph completely stock. My 00 WS6 trapped a best of 108mph and I only have a cutout, SPEC clutch(old clutch from my 99 SS, I don't like this clutch but I already had it as a spare) and I removed the WS6 hood baffles. I think if you get a bit more flow through the exhaust via a cutout/catback, get more air in via lid/airfilter/ported tb/ram air, shift like a pro, get good traction on a good track with good weather conditions you could easily trap 110.

2002Z28SSConv

Don't ever buy a used Predator. Yes you can return your car to the stock programming. But the programmer is PERMENANTLY married to that vehicle via the VIN number. You can pull trouble codes and watch sensor readings on another car at any time though. Having said that, I really do like the programmer though. And my dealings with Diablosport concerning a few little issues were handled better than I expected.

I say

Lid $95~
Box your own control arms $20~
FRA - free
B&M Ripper Shifter (or Pro5.0) $200~
Just replace the muffler not the whole cat back. $100~
Pacesetter LT & ORY are only $500~ but some guys have clearance issues.
Otherwise, there's always NOS.

I love spending other people's money.

96SFLZ

You're on the right track. I'd go with:

1: Lid (TSP)
2: Shifter (Pro 5.0 would be my choice but the B&M is nice too)
3: SFCs (BMR tubular or boxed...or if you want to go with a little overkill: KB DDs)

After that, it's really up to you but exhaust would be next on my list. If you want bang-for-the-buck, you'll go with a cutout...if you want something that sounds good, go with a catback (which one, is again, up to you).

If you're looking for good track times, you're going to want to get a pair of DRs. Your car will never see it's full potential w/o tires that hook. Only problem is, unless you need some new tires (and you don't mind only getting about 8-15k miles out of them), you're going to need a couple extra wheels to mount them on (those will run you at least $100).


The Predator is married to the first vehicle it's used on. It will not work on another vehicle (for tuning) regardless of whether it's programmed back to stock or not.


In pretty good weather earlier this year, I ran 110.8 with an MTI lid, FRA (not FTRA), DS Predator and a Pro 5.0. Every car is different though...so you could go 111+ with the same mods I had or you may only go 107-108, who knows...

93 LT1

Can someone post a picture of this Texas Speed & Performance lid? I want to see if they are a plain black plastic and not goofy lettering on it.

JBF94SC

Thanks alot guys the suggestions have been more then great! This is the starting setup i think iam going to do to get me started.

Cosmetic:
-SLP front SS grille with silver SS letters $179
-Clear Corners $45
-SLP SS black ramair insert $20

Performance:
-TSP LID $95
-FTRA $169 or just the FRA depending on what else i read about it
-Pro 5.0 Shifter $180
-BMR Subframe Connectors tubular $139
-TB bypass $Free
-Some Exhaust that isnt too too much money would like to find Dual Dual used! or somthing with simular sounds how is the Dynomax system? $200-300used

So that puts me at $1027 right at what i want to spend then i will do the TB mod that you speak of if you could send me a link to this Bauer so i could look into it and how much is it? As for the cosmetics i need to make the car my own look and this that will do it right to set it apart.

What clutch would you reccomend for the money as well i plan of goign with a set of long tubes, ory, TNT 150shot, and 12 bolt in the near future and finishing the suspension just will wait till summer time up here to drop that $4000!

Also i have owned an LT1 F body and done all the work on it myself to get it into the 12s so i'm just new to LS1's. I can install my own LTs, Clutches ETC... So install will not be a problem and as for DR's iw ould love to put them on my new car but its a 6spd and dont want to risk the rearend till i can afford a 12bolt and good clutch. One last thing most the racing i will be doing will be from at speed nothing around here is from a stop it seems thats why i went 6spd this time.


Thanks Alot
Justin Falla
keep suggestion comming