I've got a '98 6-speed Z28, American Thunder flowmasters, aftermarket ram air, K&N filter, LS1 air lid, SLP MAF and smooth bellows, SPEC stage 111 clutch. At 65,000mi. it slung a #6 rod bearing, not sure why-oil pump seemed to be ok. Motors out of car and at the shop,

NOW, Callies rotating assembly? Lunati's? Or are there some cheaper ways to go and still retain the reliability and integrity?
So far, research tells me that stroking it compared to keeping it stock isn't that much more expensive, yes?

All suggestions appreciated-

 

As I become even further confused, now I understand that if I put a stroker rotating assembly in, and a new cam(both of which I have to have anyway), I will need to upgrade valve springs and retainers plus have it re-tuned for the chip(does that mean a new chip also?) One guy tells me, "with license access and tune, it will cost $700 just to re-tune." Is that about right or what?

If I don't put the stroker kit in, will it still need a re-tune with the chip?

I'm asking this in hopes of having a total bill type figure to work with. Seems like everytime I talk to somebody new, they tell me about some additional work that's going to have to be performed.

On a stroked motor, what all has to be completed? And is it worth it?


I'm begining to think the old motors of the sixties were definately better to have; easier to work on and simplier to modify and maintain.

Still waiting to hear,

 

Me again,

one more thing to add to the equation- I would like to supercharge it in about 2-3 yrs-

Hey, we can all dream, can't we-

Buzz

 

Since nobody else is posting I'll thro my 2 cents in. I don't now anything about price. You'll have to talk to a shop about that. I assume the shop is doing the whole engine build for you. With a stroker you will definantely need a tune. You're going with a heads and cam package also, correct? Anyway, you will need tuning. You have two options here that I can think of. You could buy LS1 edit for like $550 (it may be a bit more when all is said and done). This would allow you to do the tuning. Only problem here is you'll have to learn how to use it. It is the best and only (that I know of) way to tune yourself. The predator and Hpp3 won't even begin to cut it. This also means it takes a lot of knowledge to use it properly. I think just about anybody could do it but you need to educate yourself on what you are doing. Not exactly easy but doable. You need time to fart with it. Of course you will need a laptop if you get ls1 edit. The other option is to have somebody tune it. This costs money (not sure how much - kinda depends on who does it) and you need to find somebody who knows what they are doing, somebody who will take their time and do it right. I know people with 383s. It seams like they all have problems with trying to get it to run perfect. Most people get it to run well but when they thro it on a dyno they are running way too rich or have some other problem and its just not running to its full potential.

Now you also want to supercharge it. This puts a bit of a kink in things. Naturally aspirated you should run around a 10:1 copression ratio. Supercharged you should run around 8:1. From what I know you should not exceed about 6lbs of boost on a 10:1 ratio engine. So if it were me I would either deicide to go all engine and no boost or if you get boost you need to lower the compression. Just seems like a waist to be rebuilding the engine knowing you will supercharge and not be able to put like 10 to 15lbs on it when you do. I may be wrong but I think ideally the whole engine build specs for a naturally aspirated versus supercharged are different (cams maybe heads, etc, etc).

Having said all this, I'm by no means an expert. The best thing is to find a shop that does REALLY good work and have a talk with them. They will know all of the specifics. and if you do go with a 383 stroker and blower you are going to have one hellova ride. Of course you'll need to start thinking about that rear end if you plan on running slicks (and youre gonna need slicks to get all that power to the ground)

 

If you want to run a blower you setup is going to change. The compression will have to be between 9.5.1and 8.5.1 depending on the amount of boost. The cam choice will be very different between na. Last the heads would be worked much more on the exhaust side. You need to figure out what before you go and build your motor. Unless you want to do it twice.

 

Suggestions depend on your wallet and how deep it is. No need to waste anyone's time. Give and idea as to how far ($) you wish to go.

Steve

 

Thanks, Steve. The ugly truth? My last quote was $9,553.
That includes:
Callies crank
I-beam rods
diamond pistons
federal mogul bearings
rollmaster billet double timing chain
comp cam
camatic gaskets
upgraded rocker-arm assembly-lifters, push rods, rocker-arms
202 valves
valve springs
titanium retainers
port & polish heads
valve job
includes rebuild
hone
tune
Dyno

So, what da ya think?

 

mmannss,

>>>You're going with a heads and cam package also, correct?<<<

No, at least I don't want to get into the heads yet. I don't know enough about the heads yet, whether or not to go to the "truck" heads.

>>>Now you also want to supercharge it. This puts a bit of a kink in things. Naturally aspirated you should run around a 10:1 copression ratio. Supercharged you should run around 8:1<<<

from what I'm seeing, when I get ready to blow it, I'll just need to go to the "truck" heads: which will lower my compression to 8:1 or so, putting me in the desireable range needed.

So, build now for naturally aspirated and then in 2-3yrs when you supercharge, change out the heads?!! Yes?

Buzz

 

the truck heads raise compression

ever thought about the bottle? its very much loved in ls1's

 

The Bottle!? Couple of squirts and it's gone-
Not really sure, not really sure about much at this point other than stroke or no stroke- engine's in pieces and the man wants to know which way ta go-

Back to my original question, no matter what I do in the future, is it a sound move to stroke it now, if so, what's a reasonable cost and will stroking it allow me to drive daily without having to twist wrenches on it every hundred miles?

Buzz

 

5.3 truck heads raise comp ratio but
Forced induction guys use the 6.0 truck heads because they lower comp ratio and have the LS6 D shaped exhaust ports.

 

Reference the truck heads, 6.0, that's the info that I had received also, that the 6.0 truck heads could be used when going to a supercharger.
Right now, I'm looking at port & polishing the original heads whether I go stock or stroked. Sound thinking? or a waste of money if I stay stock?

Buzz

 

<<<Now you also want to supercharge it. This puts a bit of a kink in things. Naturally aspirated you should run around a 10:1 copression ratio. Supercharged you should run around 8:1. From what I know you should not exceed about 6lbs of boost on a 10:1 ratio engine. So if it were me I would either deicide to go all engine and no boost or if you get boost you need to lower the compression. Just seems like a waist to be rebuilding the engine knowing you will supercharge and not be able to put like 10 to 15lbs on it when you do. I may be wrong but I think ideally the whole engine build specs for a naturally aspirated versus supercharged are different (cams maybe heads, etc, etc). >>>

Here's my real dilemma:
1. motor's broke, must be fixed or replaced
2. would like to supercharge some day, not now, (I first want to go through the drivetrain and suspension to upgrade, preparing the way for the "beast"
3. can I at least prepare for the supercharger, by beefing up parts and or setting it up whereby when I do blow it, as little as possible will have to be changed out. ei. ... I know pistons will have to be changed. What else? If I port & polish the heads, can I use them with the 'charger until I replace the heads?
4. am I better off buying a crate engine?

Being a daily driver, I don't want to go "crazy" on this thing, but being a guy, I want a car that you can't mash the pedal all the way to the floor!

Buzz

 

Just toss that engine and buy a 427 crate motor. Nothings more intemidating then pulling up next to a car that says 427 on the side.

 

i agree with ls1 maniac...If you're gonna be spending all this cash, you can get a brand new engine!!! I say dont stroke it, my friend did it to his LT1 by a camaro/corvette shop and they still didnt do it right. i PROMISE YOU WILL BE SPENDING A LOT MORE THAN YOURE PLANNING IF YOU STROKE IT!!