I was expecting more out of my headers when I got them. I dont know why though, but now I am back on my quest to obtain 400rwhp before 6000 rpm. I dyno at 350 now and was at 327 hp before headers and tune. I dont drive this daily but still like to be decent on street but dont mind a little shacking! nothing extreme. So someone recommended this cam spec for my setup. I dont plan on getting heads at all. I just want to at least hit 400rwhp. I know I need a ls6 oil pump, ls2 timing chain, springs and retainers. Do I need anything else, like push rods, lifters or anything else? Or does anyone have a better choice of a CAM or know where the best place to get everything I need? Also, I want to make sure that this will not tear up my motor any sooner. I plan on keeping it like this for awhile and dont want to throw and rod or sppin a bearing or something. BTW i have 98,000 miles on the clock I'v heard that install should be around $700?? Sorry for all questions but thanks for any insight.

 

23 hp from headers is a good gain.

Yes you will need pushrods.

You will most likely also need a larger cam and all the bolt ons to hit 400whp on a cam only car.

 

What size do you have in mind that will not make my car go nuts at every stop light? Or is that what its going to take to hit 400? And will this also reduce the longevity of my motor? Thanks

 

Buy a Push Rod Length Checker to save a LOT of time and headaches.. -TRUST ME!

Also, for insurance sake, buy a thicker Oil Pump O ring for the ported pump. It will eliminate lifter knock/valve train knocking.. Read BOTH of these threads. These are the problems we went thru on an MS4 cam swap. BAD valve train knocking BEFORE LS7 lifters and the O ring. But on that cam you shouldn't have a lifter issue at all..
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...r+knock+SOLVED
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...ght=valve+tick
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...ght=valve+tick
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=109

Comp Cams PN# 7702-1 (Pushrod Length Checker)
Thicker oil pump o-ring GM# 12557752

Invest in a new crank pulley bolt too.

That 228 cam is quite streetable, you'll love it!

 

Thanks for the replay and very good info to keep from doing things again. I am also wondering, if this a good streetable cam, is there a cam I can go to that might be a little more aggressive and make more HP. This cam, from what i'v seen, makes about 380-390 Hp with LT's and most minor bolt ons. I can handle a little lope, but want to make sure I can hit the 400 mark. I meet a lot of hot rods a on the highway and I want to pull from anyone from a roll and not from a stop so much. (cant really stop completely on a highway) From what I'v seen the 228/228 112 is great for an A4 with a good stall, but would there be something better for a M6?? Thanks and once again, good info on what else to replace while I am there...

 

The Futral f13 or some of the smaller 230 duration grinds if you must hit 400 whp. That 228 will get you close. Say in the 375-390 whp range, depending on your engine.

Or, you could take the Aussie cam spec route and go with a short duration, high lift, tight LSA grind.

 

Texas speed torquer V2

 

i second the torquer 2 or the F13

both are very streetable with a good tune, and both should yeild 400rwhp.

but in all likelyhood you'll have to spin to 6500 to get the power. not may cams will make 400rwhp by 6000. just the nature of the beast.

 

The F13 would be a great choice. Power peaks at 6000 rpm and it has the capacity to make over 400rwhp with supporting mods such as an LS6 intake, ported throttlebody, longtube headers, etc.

Mike