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02 LS1 questions

Old Jan 3, 2009 | 05:13 PM
  #1  
Sunset_Z's Avatar
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02 LS1 questions

After a quick search I didn't find what I was looking for - sorry if this has been beat to heck. My last post was in 05 so I forgot all my links to info etc.....anyways thanks in advance.

EDIT: ok found the answer to question 1 on fbody.com. Wonder is this as good as getting it flushed professionally.....?

1) I'm going to change my coolant in my 02 Ls1 z28 (~ 53k miles). Are there any other "bleed" holes that I need to open up in order to flush it all out and remove air when I refill. My Haynes model talks about a bolt on the block near the exhaust manifold but that is for a 97 model. Do I have anything like that - I look briefly today while changing the oil and didn't really see anything. I was going to drain using lower valve at radiator flush well with garden hose, drain and then re-fill with DI H20/Prestone (for aluminum) coolant (50:50). I will flush the reorvoir as well. FigureI should put in anew cap and order the SLP 160 deg. thermostat too.

2) Are there any lube points on the suspension for this car - as far as I can tell it has lubeless fixtures. Other than door/hood hinge etc. is there anything that needs to be lubed? u-joint? Guys at the local chevy shop say there are a few but they won't say where.

Thanks

Sunset_z

Last edited by Sunset_Z; Jan 3, 2009 at 06:44 PM.
Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:54 AM
  #2  
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a 160 thermostat is not a bad mod, but a 180 is a little better for cooling and not changing to much thermodynamically.

On all the LS1s I've changed/watched changed coolant on, you drain and refill and let the air migrate out. Just keep an eye on it.
Old Jan 5, 2009 | 01:18 AM
  #3  
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Smile coolant drain?

So are you saying don't even bother with the drain plugs on the block? Just flush and refill and top off? Would certainly make it easier. Didn't get to it yet on account of some snow.....
Old Jan 5, 2009 | 05:44 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Sunset_Z
So are you saying don't even bother with the drain plugs on the block? Just flush and refill and top off? Would certainly make it easier. Didn't get to it yet on account of some snow.....
There is only one plug in the block that I can think of and it is the huge one on the front of the drivers side. I don't even think you could fill if it was open. I usually watch for the throttle body lines to start pissing fluid into the radiator, that means most of the air is out.

-Geoff
Old Jan 5, 2009 | 09:35 AM
  #5  
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The air bubbles should be pushed out after about two weeks.
Old Jan 5, 2009 | 09:27 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Sunset_Z
After a quick search I didn't find what I was looking for - sorry if this has been beat to heck. My last post was in 05 so I forgot all my links to info etc.....anyways thanks in advance.

EDIT: ok found the answer to question 1 on fbody.com. Wonder is this as good as getting it flushed professionally.....?

1) I'm going to change my coolant in my 02 Ls1 z28 (~ 53k miles). Are there any other "bleed" holes that I need to open up in order to flush it all out and remove air when I refill. My Haynes model talks about a bolt on the block near the exhaust manifold but that is for a 97 model. Do I have anything like that - I look briefly today while changing the oil and didn't really see anything. I was going to drain using lower valve at radiator flush well with garden hose, drain and then re-fill with DI H20/Prestone (for aluminum) coolant (50:50). I will flush the reorvoir as well. FigureI should put in anew cap and order the SLP 160 deg. thermostat too.

2) Are there any lube points on the suspension for this car - as far as I can tell it has lubeless fixtures. Other than door/hood hinge etc. is there anything that needs to be lubed? u-joint? Guys at the local chevy shop say there are a few but they won't say where.

Thanks

Sunset_z
I think the outer tie rod ends have greese fittings on them and the ball joints too .
Old Jan 6, 2009 | 02:25 AM
  #7  
Sunset_Z's Avatar
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grease fittings

Ok, thanks I'll look again this weekend when I'm under the car.
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