There are days I like not having traction control (ASR),no power seats, having cloth Zebra interior with anniversary , having 4 speakers, having Automatic that is bulletproof and every muscle car guy says its GM's best transmission and they laugh and say its prolly the 4L80E, black plastic roof, and some other things. But there are days I wish I had traction control so when I pass somone is doesn't slide every spinning them under 38MPH and it spins and slides on the highway if I punch it at 55 MPH (Only in the cold weather) (usually when it under 40 degrees out.

People either break my ***** or they say you got a nice track ready car. I mean this car is amazing fast and feels like it gets faster as it ages LOL.

Am I really saving that much weight?? Will the car be worth more bec its mostly stock with no options installed.

Depends on what you use it for the most. track car? or daily driver?
I definatly enjoy my creature comforts of power seats, AC, and subwoofer haha. My brother had a turd of a 1990 mustang with a 5.0 and he removed his AC compressor and junk to "save weight" I never understood it because it was his DD and that thing never saw the track. Then he would complain about how hot it was in the summer at 95 degrees and 100% humidity here in MD. I guess i didnt care because i could still whoop his a$$ in my SS even with my AC blasting!

edit: what else have you done to save weight besides new seats? a true track car is gutted, no stereo, no interior, no AC, no spare ect ect.

Unless you have more mods than are listed in your sig, I think you should buy better tires. You shouldn't be losing traction in the conditions you described.

I got new tires and put the chrome anniversary rims and still bad traction I got the Yokohama with the biggest tire size for the 16 inch chromes. I thought chrome rims were heavier but versus the grey finish they feel the same weight.

I still loose traction! it sucks bec I will punch it if I have to pass a car out it zig zags everywhere spinning

There not new seats there original seats.

Ever since I took off the original heavy rusted stock exhaust which weighed prolly 100 pounds I put the loudmouth which weighs about 15 pounds LOL and ever since then I had traction issues. With stock intake and exhuast it would chirp 2 gear real loud. Now it just spins and fish tails like crazy but I can control without my heart rate changing.

I will either install the asr or buy ZR1 rims LOL

I can see a turbo car having traction problems but a cat-back exhaust car spinning the wheels off at 55mph? common dude.

Tire size means almost nothing, when you're talking about different brands and models.

I went from a $800 set of 245/50ZR16 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 summer tires to a $400 set of 275/40ZR17 BFGoodrich g-Force Super Sport all-seasons (I got new wheels too). Note that the new tires are half the cost of the old ones, but a full 30mm (more than an inch) wider.

Grip with my old tires even when they were bald, was MUCH better. When I wear these out, I'll be going back to something expensive. It's totally worth it.

You need to save up some money and buy some high quality tires, or your car is never going to have traction.

Wow, sounds like you have the same car as my BF (97 white with black top, cloth, ect, ect), he has done some (lol) aftermarket mods, but I do have to same the trans in my 96' is as strong as the day it rolled off the lot and has 208,xxx miles on it! He has had his trans re built a couple of times before ending up with a FLT trans, and now it's solid!, but with all his mods, he had to replace that stock trans! My car (96)(also white with black top) is full opted out and has ASR, on snow days I Love it, but to play in, I turn it off! The thing kicks your foot off the gas the minute it spins!

1997 Chevy Camaro Z28 Has,

Hal Qa1 coilovers on front

Powerstop rotor and Hawk pads

Maizeir Hiflow elec. water pump

Optima red topbattery

Hooker lt headers, Mufflex 3" to off road y-pipe, Slp t.o.t.l. cat back

MSD billet ditrubitor, coil and 6A box, Granitteli wires (one burned)

tune ( 2 changable pcm's).

Morroso C.A.I. proted, polished MAF LT4 52mm throttle body

Home made Nitrous wet kit with single Fogger nozzle

BMR stut tower brace, Lower control arms, Adjustable Pan hard bar

TA rear dif. cover

F.L.T. Level 4 trans Sonnex billet 2nd and 4th gear servos, vacum mod so pcm doesnt control line pressure, Midwest 3000 stall

Two extra factory wheels with BFG drag radials with 25% life left

(Let's just say it stands it's ground at the track and on the street)

edit- I do have brand new Falcon tires on my 96' that are "siped" and handles real well!

I swear it spins them in the the highway, I only did it 3 times out of about 25-50 in my life owning the car for 3 years I owned. The auto's are good if you know there sweet spots. I let it run at 54-58 MPH let go of the gas for about 2-4 seconds punch it and it drops down and the rear end fished tailed strong and to a point that you can't control bec it pulls hard left and right or right to left and you can feel the rubber acting like a cheese grader ripping the pavement and a guy behind saw it and like it and pulled next to me and beep and waved.And one nudge of the steering your screwed. I always change the trans fluild every year with a new filter.

I don't care what you people say but I swear it does it, It won't do it with my friend on the highway, only under 37 MPH and it still squirms and spins them for about 30 ft and my friend is pretty fat. When I showed him he goes well my 351 windsor with afr heads, will do the same, he does admit he hates that I bought the auto but he does brag to people this thing kicks down and its mostly stock. I think GM did a good job with the auto's. And I beat on this tranny everytime I drive it. Sounds stupid but I drive it like a stick and I think its good for the trany, always had since day one.

My point is, is it worth not having any options on the car? I don't plan on racing at the track just around town and once awhile mess around. What is the weight difference??

I don't have those kind of problems with a beefy 383 and 4.11 gears.... Sounds like you have rear suspension problems. Check the LCA's for damaged bushings. Make sure the body hasn't sagged to the point where the body end of the LCA is below the axle end. Consider adding LCA relocation brackets. Take a look at the panhard rod bushings as well.

Mine will spin and chrip them anytime you floor it with the ASR turned off (fun in the showoff kinda way). But I drive both of ours, and besides not having to turn the ASR switch off to have fun, and t-tops/topless, I could care less. Leather has it's pros and cons, compared to cloth, but other then that, weight isn't far off from each other, t-tops weigh more like a convertible would, but you have less support with t-tops. either one is race set up ready or not. whatever you prefer. I found out mine has a missing swaybar bushing on the drivers rear and usually spins out and hooks that way, but other then that, until the tires hook up, it'll just do that.

All good possibilities, but I still think he has cheap tires. Under/overinflation is another possibility.

forgot to mention my 96' has a vette servo in the trans and breaks trans mounts left and right cuz' it shifts so hard. but my new tires hook up real nice!

Yeah mine breaks trans mission mounts also. I went through 3 mounts in 3-4 years. The rear end is ok, doesn't sag, nothing was bent or missing. I notice the rear end went up like almost 2 inches ones the stock exhaust was replaced by the loudmouth.

I might put a battery locater kit in the back so maybe the weight will help grip the tires better.

Tire pressure is at 33 pounds. The sticker from the factory says 35 pounds.

You would have to remove several hundred pounds from the rear for the rear to rise 2". The stock exhaust weight nowhere near 100#. If the back end of your car popped up 2", you have some other suspension problems.

Have you tried lowering the pressure?

It's 0 degrees in CT this time of year, of course you're going to spin. The road and your tires are both hard as bricks.