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testing door switch

Old Apr 20, 2007 | 12:30 PM
  #1  
yournamehere's Avatar
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From: valley of hell
testing door switch

The map/courtesy lights and dome lights have never worked
on my '96 Z28 since I purchased it. I did a search and did
some reading, and it seems either the door switch or hatch
switch is faulty.
Is there a way to test the switch, instead of random replacement ?
Thanks
Old Apr 20, 2007 | 01:27 PM
  #2  
THE_RUCKUS's Avatar
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From: Southgate, Michigan
Firstly, check all of your fuses under the hood and at the interior fuse panel. If that does not solve your problem, check the bulb. I know it sounds stupid, but its a good place to start.

Furthermore, if that is not your solution get out a Digital Multi-Meter. Locate the BCM in the passenger kickpanel. You will have separate door trigger wires. The wire colors are grey/black and black/white. It is a negative door trigger meaning when tested, it should read 12v while the doors are CLOSED. When the appropriate door is opened, the 12v reading will drop to zero.

Should that be operating functionally, i would presume your door trigger switches are faulty. Hope this helps.
Old Apr 20, 2007 | 01:45 PM
  #3  
yournamehere's Avatar
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Thanks for the help. When I first got the car and faced that dark
interior, I knew something was'nt right. I did'nt know if the
lights in the rear view mirror were all I had, so I checked the
fuse on the interior and replaced the bulbs. Which look like
big old style fuses.
No luck. Guess it is time to jump into the electronic age and
get my own digital multi meter.
Old Apr 20, 2007 | 02:51 PM
  #4  
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You can also check it with a test light if you have one laying around or you could just make one.
Old Apr 21, 2007 | 06:07 AM
  #5  
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Actually, NEVER use a test light in ANY modern vehicle. The resistance produced is enough to do irreversible damage to modern vehicle electronics. Take my word for it, i'm MECP certified.. it's much better to be safe than sorry.
Old Apr 22, 2007 | 05:50 PM
  #6  
yournamehere's Avatar
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From: valley of hell
Originally Posted by THE_RUCKUS
Actually, NEVER use a test light in ANY modern vehicle. The resistance produced is enough to do irreversible damage to modern vehicle electronics. Take my word for it, i'm MECP certified.. it's much better to be safe than sorry.

Ok Ruckus, you have my attention.
no test light.
Today is the day I'm poking around, lookin' at stuff. First thing I
notice is from the fuse block under the hood, there is a black
and white wire going from the fuse block to a relay type looking
plug which is attatched to the radiator saddle. There are 2 green
wires that are attatched to the radiator saddle as grounds. One
is plugged into the relay looking thing. The other green one is not,
and there is one plug left open. So, trying to be safe and not sorry,
I did not plug the ground in.
Any ideas what this is for ? I'm sure I'm not lucky enough for this
to be the dome light problem. It's starting to sound like I should
just spend the $7.00 and get a door switch.
Thanks
Old Apr 23, 2007 | 05:02 PM
  #7  
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From: Southgate, Michigan
It's possible that it could. Check the manual to see where the domelight fuse is located (under hood or under dash) I've seen some pretty ghetto installs where a remote turn-on or something of such is jumped from an acc. source where it would cause something to fault.

break out the multi-meter and set it to continuity. test the probes at the exposed metal posts on the tops of the fuses. should it show continuity, you have a complete circuit (ie a good fuse). Whenever i work on a car, the fuse panels are the first thing I always check
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