should I remove my egr ??
should I remove my egr ??
Need little advice from you folks, wanna know if it's worth getting rid of the egr pipin, tubing or whatever you wanna call it. Or is it just a waiste of time and money ???
The reason why I would wanna do it is so that I can get a set of nicey coated hookers. would you guys say it's worth the trouble ???
The reason why I would wanna do it is so that I can get a set of nicey coated hookers. would you guys say it's worth the trouble ???
Re: should I remove my egr ??
The only "piping" involved with the EGR is the flex-tube that connects #8 primary to the rear of the intake manifold. The EGR system serves a useful purpose, and does not hurt performance in any way. If your headers don't have the connection on #8, its sort of a non-issue, since you will need at least one blanking plate for the back of the intake.
Are you possibly confusing the EGR system with the AIR system?
Are you possibly confusing the EGR system with the AIR system?
Re: should I remove my egr ??
Originally Posted by Injuneer
The only "piping" involved with the EGR is the flex-tube that connects #8 primary to the rear of the intake manifold. The EGR system serves a useful purpose, and does not hurt performance in any way. If your headers don't have the connection on #8, its sort of a non-issue, since you will need at least one blanking plate for the back of the intake.
Are you possibly confusing the EGR system with the AIR system?
Are you possibly confusing the EGR system with the AIR system?
Yes I am, those little piping tubes that connect to the manifold !!
so if I want to get hookers with out the air thing, what steps should I take ???
Re: should I remove my egr ??
I completely understand there is no performance gain by doing this.
Here is are my reasons to get rid of the EGR if emmissions are not an issue.
1. I have gone through 3 EGR valves at $60 a pop which throws code 32.
2.The infamous LT1 intake rear oil leak is caused by the EGR. The expansion and contraction of the metal from the exhaust air inside and outside the metal flexible tube is the culprit. It can also cause the intake bolts to loosen a bit.
This happens to many LT1 guys and requires removing, gasketing and siliconing and reinstalling the intake. This is not fun. If you have oil on the back of the engine look at the intake.
3.If the EGR is in the process of dying it can stick open, this actually happened to me. Upon starting the engine it coughs and chokes and wont run right due to the huge vaccum leak.
I did a header install and I blocked off the EGR with the three aluminum plates and had the function disabled in my tune and have not looked back.
This cant be all that bad cause the LT4 did not have an EGR a a result of the bigger cam.
If I could have counted on the thing to work and last I would have left it intact.
Regarding the AIR, I still have all that system still intact.
Here is are my reasons to get rid of the EGR if emmissions are not an issue.
1. I have gone through 3 EGR valves at $60 a pop which throws code 32.
2.The infamous LT1 intake rear oil leak is caused by the EGR. The expansion and contraction of the metal from the exhaust air inside and outside the metal flexible tube is the culprit. It can also cause the intake bolts to loosen a bit.
This happens to many LT1 guys and requires removing, gasketing and siliconing and reinstalling the intake. This is not fun. If you have oil on the back of the engine look at the intake.
3.If the EGR is in the process of dying it can stick open, this actually happened to me. Upon starting the engine it coughs and chokes and wont run right due to the huge vaccum leak.
I did a header install and I blocked off the EGR with the three aluminum plates and had the function disabled in my tune and have not looked back.
This cant be all that bad cause the LT4 did not have an EGR a a result of the bigger cam.
If I could have counted on the thing to work and last I would have left it intact.
Regarding the AIR, I still have all that system still intact.
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