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Right Signal Won't Flash

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Old 09-11-2009, 06:02 AM
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Right Signal Won't Flash

My right turn signal intermittently does not flash, it just stays on when the lever is moved to turn right. I have replaced the bulbs with the proper ones on all four corners. I have also put two new sockets in the back. The flasher is also new. Now I am thinking it is in the right front. The marker lights work, as do the emergency flashers. Any thoughts on what I should try next? Any one know where this circuit grounds?
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Old 09-11-2009, 01:45 PM
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sleeper, what are the actual symptoms when it does not work. Are front and rear turn lamp conditions the same, both on steady or off, what about the dash indicator on or off. The hazard switch takes control of the turn signals... You said hazard works OK, if the front and back turn signals are all flashing OK in hazard, and the parking lamp filaments are off ,not glowing or on (bad ground), then the circuitry and grounds for the turn signal filaments should be good. Each turn lamp left/right front/back has a separate contact point and wiring coming out of the turn/hazard switch , a defective switch could cause one lamp not to work, why do you suspect the R-Front ? As far as grounds the black wire on the turn/parking lamp socket goes to a common ground for r-headlamps, parking lamps, and r-foglight. It's terminal G105 near the top RH side of the radiator, on top of the T-Bar. Also try flicking and vibrating the hazard switch button turn signals voltage go through it when it's in off position.

Last edited by bobdec; 09-11-2009 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 09-11-2009, 02:29 PM
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Lol, I'm having the same problem with my left one. Hazards work but when i flick on the left signal it just stays on. The dash light indicator stays on as well as the bulbs. All my bulbs are new also. Mine's been like this for a few months now..haha I just gave up on it.
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Old 09-12-2009, 09:49 AM
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Assuming the turn signal switch is not defective.... The flasher is a Thermal switch that requires full current from both (front and rear) bulbs to switch on/off. The way a dual element bulb (turn element and park lamp element in one bulb) is designed, if the ground is bad the current will flow from the turn element to the park lamp element. This will look like the turn signal is on, but it will not draw enough current to activate the flasher. I know it's a PITA but you have to pull the bulb and look at both elements when failing and make sure the parking lamp element is not glowing. A voltage multimeter should be put between the park +12 V and ground it should read 0V. The black wire ground should read 0V and the turn element wire should read +12V for both front and back.
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Old 09-12-2009, 12:08 PM
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If the bulbs are good, it oftens ends up being a corroded socket/poor connection at/near the bulb.
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bobdec
Assuming the turn signal switch is not defective.... The flasher is a Thermal switch that requires full current from both (front and rear) bulbs to switch on/off. The way a dual element bulb (turn element and park lamp element in one bulb) is designed, if the ground is bad the current will flow from the turn element to the park lamp element. This will look like the turn signal is on, but it will not draw enough current to activate the flasher. I know it's a PITA but you have to pull the bulb and look at both elements when failing and make sure the parking lamp element is not glowing. A voltage multimeter should be put between the park +12 V and ground it should read 0V. The black wire ground should read 0V and the turn element wire should read +12V for both front and back.
Thank you for the helpful response. I suspect the right front is the problem because I had the socket out with the bulb in. There was also someone in the car working the lights when I was playing with the bulb. I noticed that sometimes when the signal element would flash, the park element would momentarily turn on. Wiggling the bulb in the socket would usually fix the stuck-on issue, but not the jumping from park to turn problem. Is this a grounding problem? Since my car is a 93, it has the old school round socket, not the newer flat socket, just an FYI.
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Old 09-14-2009, 10:10 AM
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Looks like a bad ground ref Rob's post #5, make sure all is clean (no corrosion) in the socket and the ground terminal in the socket meters 0 ohms to ground with a meter if you have one.

Last edited by bobdec; 09-14-2009 at 10:21 AM.
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Old 09-14-2009, 01:15 PM
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For all those having problems with the flashers on 4th gens, THIS is the solution:

There is a flasher unit that in under the dash on the driver side of the vehicle. You will have to remove the lower dash panal(s) right below the steering column. There is a silver colored flasher unit there up in the dash, it's about half the size of a C or D cell battery. Trust me, it's there! Unplug it, replace it with a new one, and prolem is solved. Trust me, I had the same issues that you all said above, turnsignal just stays on solid, but the hazards flash correctly. It's not the bulbs, it's not the grounds!
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Old 09-14-2009, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by speeding2fast2c
For all those having problems with the flashers on 4th gens, THIS is the solution:

There is a flasher unit that in under the dash on the driver side of the vehicle. You will have to remove the lower dash panal(s) right below the steering column. There is a silver colored flasher unit there up in the dash, it's about half the size of a C or D cell battery. Trust me, it's there! Unplug it, replace it with a new one, and prolem is solved. Trust me, I had the same issues that you all said above, turnsignal just stays on solid, but the hazards flash correctly. It's not the bulbs, it's not the grounds!
It's one possible solution. 4th gens have lots of socket problems and is much more common than the flasher. The flasher is easy to change, though.
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:52 AM
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UPDATE: I found the solution to my problem last night. I pulled the socket and checked resistance from the bulb ground to the ground wire on the core support, and it was well over 1000 ohms. After tracing the wire all the way back to the socket, I found that the connection between the wire and metal ring that accepts the round metal portion of the bulb was bad. The fix for me was to remove the wire retainer, and then pull out the ground wire slightly. This restored the connection, and the resistance dropped to 0.3 ohms. I then packed that wire passage with dielectric grease and zip tied it to the plastic case of the connector. It now flashes brighter than the left side! I guess I will do the same to that side now too! Thanks for all the input and help with this problem everyone!! Check your grounds, they are more than likely the cause of most electrical problems!
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