Just a few questions about aftermarket gauges. Whats the difference between electrical and mechanical? Also are the Ultra-lite's backlit or just the ultra-nites?? As far as which gauges im wanting, fuel pres, trans temp, n20 press, a/f ratio. I wanna put two on the pillar and two down in the cubby by the shifter. I also need a f/p isloator in order to run the gauge inside of the car correct?

 

Mechanical gauges do not require 12V power to operate. They make direct physical contact with the item they are reading through tubing or lines. Electrical gauges, with the obvious factor being they need electrical power to operate, have some advantages which are: no large connections coming out the back, become easier to route greater distances away from the source being measured, easier to install in tight areas, and stop fluids from entering the interior cabin of the vehicle.

 

the ultra-lite (1) has a bulb behind it which shines around the edges
the ultra lite II has a LED behind it which shines-through the dial

 

You do NOT want to attempt to install a mechanical fuel pressure gauge inside the passenger compartment, even if you get the high pressure isolator. From personal experience, the isolators are not reliable. AutoMeter has made several revisions to their design, because they simply are not reliable.

I had an early model isolator, it failed, and AutoMeter gave me full credit for all the stuff I had bought against a more reliable electronic gauge. Eventually they recalled the model. You do not want to risk getting fuel inside the car.

Additionally, the isolator only works if you can keep the interior side of the system filled with glycol, an almost impossible task. Without the glycol being full, the pressure gauge will not be accurate.

Mechanical is fine for N2O pressure, but requires the installation of a special fitting with a flow restriction orifice in it, to prevent the interior of the car from filling up with a nitrous cloud if the gauge breaks.

You don't want a mechanical trans temp gauge, because they require the use of a bulb connected to a capillary tube, and you would have to route the capillary tube through the firewall and into the interior. Electric wire is a lot easier to run.

The A/F gauge is of very limited value, unless you get one that works with a wide-band sensor (or sensors).

 

Will the A/F still read accurately or not if its one that doesnt work with sensors? When you say one that works with sensors you mean this...
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...60201_-1_10625

 

yes, that is what he means

 

All A/F gauges need to be attached to a sensor. The most common ones are the low $$$ units that attach to the stock, narrow-band O2 sensors. They are not useful, because the stock O2 sensors are only accurate at stoichiometric ratios ("normal", part throttle/part load driving). They are not accurate at the A/F ratios required for peak torque and HP. Using an add-on wide-band sensor (and gauge intended to work with the wide-band) solves the problem.

With the stock O2 sensors, you also end up with the LED's simply flashing an annoying psychedelic light show, because of the way the PCM controls A/F in closed loop.

 

Definately understand what you mean with the A/F gauge. On a side note ive seen a plate that goes across the cubby down by the shifter that will hold gauges, anyone know where I can find this?

 

they do not make them anymore, so you will have to find one on the forums
I just picked one up, and it was kind of pricey.
They were made by RK Sports and are designed to hold 2x 2 - 1/16" gauges

 

Thanks, ill keep an eye out