95VertZ

Good call on the cam idea, i was under the impression i only had the 2 options listed on his website for that package. Lloyd is on vacation till 17th so i will get in touch with him on that then.

36lb injectors it is. Like you mentioned, im sure one day, i will want to do something else to add a little more to it.

Will these upgrades be ok with my stock bottom end and block being 350ci or would i need to upgrade?

Injuneer

You will be OK with the stock bottom end. Specially if you stay away from an aggressive cam that needs 6,000+ RPM to make max power. That assumes your engine is healthy.

95VertZ

Great news! Didn't want to have to go that in-depth just yet. Im assuming that it is in good condition being that it has a fairly recent rebuild on motor. But, i will look over things as i am going through to do the heads, cam, etc. Thanks for all the help!

95VertZ

Ok, I have come across a deal on some rr's and pushrods but have no idea if they will work out not so im asking for help. The rockers are Lunatti Voodoo 1.6 (15315) & rods are Comp Cams 7.9", .105" (8413). Just wondering with the stud sizes, rod lengths and all if these will work in my lt1 that will have le1 stage heads

95VertZ

Anybody?...

Injuneer

Been on the road for 5 days, with limited access. An LT1 head needs self-aligning, narrow body rockers for a 3/8" stud (rocker nut thread - the threads in the head for the stud are 7/16").

The rockers you listed are non-self aligning. To use those, you would have add guide plates, and use hardened push rods.

There is no indication they are narrow body. To me they look wide, but you would have to verify w/ manufacturer. You need narrow body to clear the center bolts on the valve cover. Wide body only works w/ perimeter valve covers. You can get perimeter bolt adapters for the LT1, but they tend to leak, and why complicate things when narrow body rockers are readily available.

I can't look at the link right now, but I think they are for 7/16” studs. That's an easy fix. Replacing the stock studs w/ 7/16" is a good idea with a camshaft upgrade.

Why not ask Lloyd what he recommends? He can provide them with the heads.

LT1 pushrods are generally in the range of 7.1 - 7.2". But you don't buy pushrods until you have everything else finalized, head on the block, and can use a pushrod length checker.

Good article on rockers:

Rocker Arms 101 - Everything You Need To Know - Vette Magazine

95VertZ

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...21&oe=59EEA118

well, she's out! It only took me the course of 2 weeks lol..but I did it at my own pace taking my time to hopefully not miss anything. I now have the motor tore down to the block pretty much. Heads will be sent off this week for the LE1 package with cam and intake porting. I'm excited to get this thing rolling! Injuneer..I was wondering, if I go with a S/A rocker, is it best to change over to a 7/16" stud or can I keep it 3/8" and use same pushrods? I don't mind spending the extra $$ IF it is necessary. The factory ones are hardened I do believe, any help on that? Thanks!

Injuneer

Ask Lloyd. NSA vs self-aligning would seem to depend on the gross lift. The load on the rocker studs is a function on the acceleration of lift, springs loads and probably other things. I have no idea where the break point is between 3/8" and 7/16". I run 7/16", but it's a solid roller camshaft with aggressive lobes, 0.590" lift and beefy spring pressures. The builder said he was using 7/16" and I said "OK".

I don't think it's ever safe to assume you can use stock (length) pushrods if that's what you mean. Has to be measured, unless Lloyd feels he knows the correct length for the components he is supplying, and your lifters. He's got 100X the experience and knowledge.

95VertZ

WOW , you weren't lying when you said Lloyd was experienced with this stuff, my gosh. He was speaking french to me lol. Anyways, here's the deal, he suggested doing the LE1 package and going with a slightly bigger cam and putting higher stall converter in. The cam specs are 223/231 .581/.594 110
Heads are on the way as we speak.

He also said to use 3/8" studs but aftermarket ones and suggested to use S/A rockers 3/8', stud mount...even gave me an item number off his head 15345-16 for Lunatti brand. I looked them up but they are standard body and not listed as narrow body, do I need to search for specific "narrow body" arms?

One more thing that has me 2nd guessing, with putting a higher stall converter in the car cause a huge difference in the way the car drives drastically? I dont know anyone that has a high stall car to ride in to feel/see the effects so I thought maybe someone here could shed some light. I hear it's very important to choose the correct converter per car weight, tire size, etc. specs. Just not wanting to screw anything up.

Thanks!!

JakeRobb

If you have clarifying questions about what Lloyd told you, I think it's best if you ask Lloyd. Like Fred said, 100x the experience of anyone here.

Injuneer

The one review of those on Summit indicates the purchaser used them on his 95 LT1. But it also says he couldn't use stock valve covers, bought "tall valve covers" and used push rod guide plates (which make no sense at all, since the rocker arms are listed by Summit as "self-aligning"), which renders the complete review questionable.

Ask Lloyd, as noted above. He can probably included the rocker arms in the deal.

ecthemc

Glad to see another 95 vert owner is building a lt1.. my current build/tune im running around 400 to the wheels - pretty conservative as I had a header banging causing my knock sensor to go off and my tuner was "PRETTY SURE" i had to get my valves adjusted.... that proved false.. haven't spent the extra $$$ to get it plugged back in to see how much more i can get out of it... Fuel Injector Connection was a pretty good to deal with company.. I had to go bigger in injectors I ordered wrong size and they swapped them out for no added cost even though the bigger ones cost a little bit more... Great company! Post some pictures when you get your stuff figured out.. here is my POS :P