Install of autometer single pillar pod and gauge.
Install of autometer single pillar pod and gauge.
I have a 93 Z-28. I am about to install a single Autometer pillar pod with a Autometer Electric fuel press gauge (ATM 2663). Several questions. How do I get the very long factory "A" pillar plastic cover off with out destroying it? It goes from up under windshield to the rear "C'" pillar. Second, How and where will I be able to get the large electric connection through firewall and keep everything out of sight at "A" pillar and dash? This Autometer wiring and connector harness needs about a 1" hole in firewall to hook up to the screw in pressure sender unit in the fuel line around engine. Any ideas would be very helpful.
Is your car a fixed-roof coupe or a T-top? The A-pillars are different. Sounds like its a coupe. I can help you with a T-top, but don't know the details of the coupe.
There's a large rubber grommet behind the ECM that will fit the AutoMeter harness. Shoebox has a photo of the grommet on his website.
http://shbox.com/fw/Firewall_wire_feed.html
There's a large rubber grommet behind the ECM that will fit the AutoMeter harness. Shoebox has a photo of the grommet on his website.
http://shbox.com/fw/Firewall_wire_feed.html
Pillar pod on 93 Z-28
Thanks Injunner. My 93 is a coupe. T tops were not available at the very first run of 4 th Gen Z's. I ordered mine before they were even out in dealerships. The Plastic "A" pillar is very long . From windshield to by my head to the "C" pilar. I know about the Grommet behind ECM. But it is all the way over on the pass side. I need to get through firewall close to drivers side so Autometer wiring harness and connector can hook up to Press sending unit that will be screwed into a fitting in my -6 AN fuel line behind engine on drivers side. At the front end of this factory plastic pillar cover,do you run the wires behind dash or can you drill a hole through firewall? Thanks for your help.
I guess I have an earlier model AutoMeter electronic gauge... the sensor is screwed into a bung we welded to the fuel rail, the harness plugs into the sensor and runs through the grommet behind the PCM, and there is an interface box velcro'd to the A/C duct, then another harness that runs behind the dash, up into the A/C duct and the gauge is mounted in the center vent.... plenty of wire.
The wiring for my electronic oil and trans temp gauges runs through a hole I drilled in the firewall, behind and below the brake booster, near the factory harness plug. The -3AN line for my oil pressure gauge goes through the hole where the clutch master cylinder used to be (good place to drill a hole if you have an A4) and into the center vent mounted gauge. The -3AN line for my nitrous pressure gauge runs from the solenoids through the grommet behind the PCM and to one of the center vents.
The hole under the brake booster can be drilled from inside the car.
For the T-top cars, the pillar cover is held on by a single screw at the end, accessed by removing the T-top. Then there are at least two stiff spring clips that push into slots in the pillar. After you get the screw out, you pull the cover straight out away from the pillar, being careful not to break the part of the cover that holds the clips.
I epoxied the pod to the pillar, filled the edges and ends with Bondo, sanded it down and painted the whole thing with matching interior paint, so it didn't look "stuck on".
The wiring for my electronic oil and trans temp gauges runs through a hole I drilled in the firewall, behind and below the brake booster, near the factory harness plug. The -3AN line for my oil pressure gauge goes through the hole where the clutch master cylinder used to be (good place to drill a hole if you have an A4) and into the center vent mounted gauge. The -3AN line for my nitrous pressure gauge runs from the solenoids through the grommet behind the PCM and to one of the center vents.
The hole under the brake booster can be drilled from inside the car.
For the T-top cars, the pillar cover is held on by a single screw at the end, accessed by removing the T-top. Then there are at least two stiff spring clips that push into slots in the pillar. After you get the screw out, you pull the cover straight out away from the pillar, being careful not to break the part of the cover that holds the clips.
I epoxied the pod to the pillar, filled the edges and ends with Bondo, sanded it down and painted the whole thing with matching interior paint, so it didn't look "stuck on".
Injuneer, thanks for your info. I do believe my newer model of the fuel press gauge has a different box as the transducer. I would think I could do something like you suggested oh. I will get into it soon. Jared , your 93 is probaby a later production number. Last 6 numbers in your VIN number is the cars production sequence. Thanks .
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