im stumped...anyone?
#1
im stumped...anyone?
ok...if i put the rear defroster on, it goes off after about 2 minutes...and i can not turn it back on for about 10...now heres the real kicker...in that 1o minute window...i can not adjust the power seat...AT ALL! but after a few minutes...the defroster goes on, and the seat moves...anyone ever heard of this?
#3
Re: im stumped...anyone?
Be stumped no more!
I had this happen to my car. The power seat and rear defroster definitely share the same fuse, which in fact is a 30A circuit breaker, not a fuse.
The problem with my car was (apparently) that the defroster grid would draw too much current, and therefore overload that circuit breaker to the point where it would overheat and trip.....until it would cool back down and reset. As a quick fix, the dealer installed a new 30A breaker and it worked for awhile, but then they replaced the entire back glass so that I'd get a new defroster grid, and since then, no problems. I guess there was either too much or too little resistance across the grid?
Fortunately, this happened while my car was under warranty. I don't know what the back glass would cost to replace?? Others have had this problem, and say that using a 30A fuse instead of the breaker will remedy the problem too.....try that before replacing the back glass.
I had this happen to my car. The power seat and rear defroster definitely share the same fuse, which in fact is a 30A circuit breaker, not a fuse.
The problem with my car was (apparently) that the defroster grid would draw too much current, and therefore overload that circuit breaker to the point where it would overheat and trip.....until it would cool back down and reset. As a quick fix, the dealer installed a new 30A breaker and it worked for awhile, but then they replaced the entire back glass so that I'd get a new defroster grid, and since then, no problems. I guess there was either too much or too little resistance across the grid?
Fortunately, this happened while my car was under warranty. I don't know what the back glass would cost to replace?? Others have had this problem, and say that using a 30A fuse instead of the breaker will remedy the problem too.....try that before replacing the back glass.
#4
Re: im stumped...anyone?
Here's a link to a thread with more links. All good reads, because there are some pros and cons to putting a fuse where the circuit breaker used to be.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309741
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309741
#5
Re: im stumped...anyone?
Originally Posted by Capn Pete
Be stumped no more!
I had this happen to my car. The power seat and rear defroster definitely share the same fuse, which in fact is a 30A circuit breaker, not a fuse.
The problem with my car was (apparently) that the defroster grid would draw too much current, and therefore overload that circuit breaker to the point where it would overheat and trip.....until it would cool back down and reset. As a quick fix, the dealer installed a new 30A breaker and it worked for awhile, but then they replaced the entire back glass so that I'd get a new defroster grid, and since then, no problems. I guess there was either too much or too little resistance across the grid?
Fortunately, this happened while my car was under warranty. I don't know what the back glass would cost to replace?? Others have had this problem, and say that using a 30A fuse instead of the breaker will remedy the problem too.....try that before replacing the back glass.
I had this happen to my car. The power seat and rear defroster definitely share the same fuse, which in fact is a 30A circuit breaker, not a fuse.
The problem with my car was (apparently) that the defroster grid would draw too much current, and therefore overload that circuit breaker to the point where it would overheat and trip.....until it would cool back down and reset. As a quick fix, the dealer installed a new 30A breaker and it worked for awhile, but then they replaced the entire back glass so that I'd get a new defroster grid, and since then, no problems. I guess there was either too much or too little resistance across the grid?
Fortunately, this happened while my car was under warranty. I don't know what the back glass would cost to replace?? Others have had this problem, and say that using a 30A fuse instead of the breaker will remedy the problem too.....try that before replacing the back glass.
#8
Re: im stumped...anyone?
My driver's seat won't stop moving with the breaker in. So I just waited til my seat got to where I wanted it and pulled the breaker. Only bad thing is no rear defroster. But then again it stays in the garage.
#9
Re: im stumped...anyone?
Originally Posted by cwaldt
My driver's seat won't stop moving with the breaker in. So I just waited til my seat got to where I wanted it and pulled the breaker. Only bad thing is no rear defroster. But then again it stays in the garage.
Why not replace the seat switch,or just unplug it under the seat,then you can put the breaker back for the window.
#10
Re: im stumped...anyone?
Originally Posted by IROC-T
Why not replace the seat switch,or just unplug it under the seat,then you can put the breaker back for the window.
I'm too lazy. I know I need to fix it, I just don't think about doing it much. I had the switch disconnected a while back but the side of my leather seat was tearing so I had a friend fix it, but when he put the seat back in he hooked everything up. Now that it's starting to get colder I'll probably unplug it just in case I'm out somewhere and the rear window freezes up