Has anyone replaced the heater hose, the one with the metal tubing and valve?? I just went to lunch I my car starting misfiring and got the check engine light, so I opened the hood and that hose has a hole in and it's shooting water like crazy.

 

Anyone 's Got An Idea On The Part # Or Price ??

Thanks.

 

You can bypass the heater by looping a chunk of heater hose from one side of the water pump to the other...

Is the hole in a rubber part of the heater hose, or is it in the metal tubing that runs along the passenger side wheel well?

I think to pull the metal tubing off you'll need a t-50 torx bit...

 

gm part #10261147

about $60 plus shipping from gmparts direct...

 

Yeah the hole is in the rubber on the right side of the metal.
http://shbox.com/1/bleeders.jpg
so the hole is right next to the metal, so you're saying I dont have to replace the whole thing??? I'm not quite following you. elaborate pls..

thanks.

 

We may be having a communication breakdown here.... I looked at the link to shoebox's site and that shows the bleeder valve assembly in the heater hose...

I was referring to the parallel metal tubing that runs along the engine compartment side of the passenger wheel well.....

If you have a leak next to the bleeder valve assembly, you can take a dremel or hack saw and CAREFULLY cut through the aluminum crimp fittings on the ends of the metal tubing... and replace the rubber hose and use a hose clamp to replace the crimp fitting... The crimp fitting is around the hose which is around the metal tubing...

This is way easier than what I thought you were talking about...

 

The bad news is that it may have dumped water on the Optispark which would have caused the misfires... If that's the case, you could be in for a bigger repair job...

Hopefully not...

 

YEAH I'VE HAD PROBLEMS WITH THIS PARTICULAR HOSE IN THE PASS.. INFACT 2 MONTHS AGO A HAD ANOTHER HOLE ON THAT SAME SIDE, WHICH WHAT I DID WAS BASICALLY CUT THE HOSE AND BOUGHT A SMALL TUBE AND 2 CLAMS AND OF COURSE I REPLACED THE SMALL HOSE THAT I CUT WITH A NEW PIECE.

BUT THIS HOLE IS TOO CLOSE TO THE METAL, SO I WASN'T SURE IF I COULD CUT THRU THE METAL OR NOT.

YEAH I GOTTA WATCH THE OPTI. I'VE GOTTEN IT WEB BEFORE AND I 'VE HAD TO SET FOR AN HOUR OR SO, TIL IT DRYS OFF
SO JUST CUT THRU THE METAL?

 

Yes, just cut the crimp fitting off... Cut it the direction that the pipe runs. Not across the pipe... It is soft aluminum and cuts easily... It's less than 1 mm thick, but the waves (crimp) make it a little more difficult... Just don't cut through the pipe... Once you have a slice through the crimp fitting, you can use a screw driver to pry it open and remove it from the pipe that is within...

I'd replace the hose coming from the water pump to the bleeder valve... Especially if you've repaired it previously... You should be able to get that at any auto parts store...

 

yeah I'd probably just replace the hose as well. now I have a 45 min drive back home, I now if it start shooting water it might get the opti and I'll be in throuble. any temporary solutions?? put some gum or a band aid ??

 

If you have a couple feet of heater hose and 2 clamps, you can bypass the heater system all together.. I know people here in Florida that have done this and have no intention of ever running heat again...

I wouldn't drive it with water/coolant shooting toward the opti... That's just begging for a $500 repair...

 

also if you have a barb fitting or splicer and 2 clamps, you can just cut the bleeder valve out of the hose and then use the splice and clamps to join the 2 hoses together till you can make a more permanent repair...