how would i do it that way?

 

'Static' is the 'engine not running' method in shoebox' link in one of the above posts..

 

ok that was my next step. i know im sounding like an idiot with all the questions but i just want to make sure i do it 100% right.

my problem now is that i lifted the car to access the crank and low and behold its a very tight fit between the crank/belt and the fan. i am assuming this is because i had a larger engine put in the car (went from a 350 to 396). would that be the cause of this tight fit or am i just not seeing the easier path to the crank? and if so (lol sorry) does this mean i would have to pull the fan out to reach this?




hmmm looks like i have my saturday planned out for me already haha.

 

Ok, time to tell us what kind of car you have and what engine is in it (small block, big block...). This whole thread just seems too bizarre.

 

74 z28. 396 big block.

 

I guess it begs the question.. solid lifters or hydraulics?[I thought you had a later model F body..]

 

how would i find that info out? i just got the car recently.

 

Perhaps the previous owner can tell you.

This is the problem with people not giving any info up front. I think everyone assumed you had a stock-ish 4th gen. All advice was primarily based on that assumption. Now, we don't know if you even have a hydraulic or solid lifter cam. If it is a solid lifter cam, you will need to know just what it is to find out the lash setting it needs. You would use feeler gauges in that case.

You are going to have to find out what is in it.

 

ok good news. i contacted teh previous owner and it does have hydr lifters in it.

 

ok im about to do this procedure. can anyone outline it for me. i read it over in a few books and on a few websites but i would just feel more confident if i had an actual human being giving me the steps. also, yea another dumb question. the crankhub is on the front of the engine near the fan right? thanks agian everyone.

also the intake valve is on the right and exhaust on the left correct?

 

Follow method 1 from the link originally provided in this thread. The firing order of a 74 big block is still 18436572. I prefer the cold engine method myself.

The crank hub is the lower center pulley. Should be a 5/8"-3/4" socket. Don't try to go back if you over shoot a timing mark, you'll just loosen the crank bolt.

The intake/exhaust valve location (for a small block) is not consistent. I'm not sure for Big blocks, but a good guideline would be to look at the exhaust manifolds/headers. If the center 2 are together, so are the valves. On a small block, it's:
ei ie ei ie
on both sides.

Valve lash adjustment has a feel to it that is best learned from someone firsthand who knows how to do it. If at all possible, try to get someone to help you with this.