i understand the basic concepts but not sure exactly how to set my timing initially given my ignition components.

400 small block destroked 377, approx 11.5:1 compression, fairly mild build

it WAS running good but apparently the distributor hold down screw came loose, timing got way off and i fouled all my plugs. all new plugs are in now.

i did not pull the distributor out, i'm assuming it is setting in the approximate right position. I am setting at top dead center. I am pretty sure I am not 180 degrees out b/c the rotor is pointing straight forward.

I don't really know what base timing should be but I'm going to try 10*. Here is the variable: the distributor doesn't have a vacuum advance hookup, I have a MSD adjustable timing control device mounted in the glovebox. It has a dial that reads from 1-15. I guess I should set that to 7.5 so I can advance it up or down. I guess this degree is factored into my initial setup? So should I first turn the motor so it is approx 2.5 degrees BTDC to give me a total initial advance of 10*... AND THEN I put the cap on the distributor and try pointing it straight to the No. 1 plug? lock it down and see if she'll fire and check timing with light?

Does that sound right? I don't know if the adjustable timing control device affects your initial timing or if it just comes into play for advancing it when my rpm goes up?? If the latter is the case, do I put my crank at 10* BTDC and lock down the distributor with the rotor pointing directly at No. 1 plug ? I really don't want to foul any more plugs so trying to get a good close baseline! THANKS.

some pics of where I"m at right now:

 

I don't know if this helps cause it may be a little late...what you have above sounds good. the best thing to do when setting timing after the engine is runing is hook up a vaccum gauge and slowly turn the distributor (remembering to grab it from the side and not the top) until you have max vaccum at idle.

 

thanks. this distributor doesn't have a vacuum hookup to it but i guess you can still check the vacuum. it figured out that the adjustable timing control should be turned to max advance (15) for the default setting... if you dial it back it will retard the timing. so for a baseline I just set it all the way up. i went with about 13 degrees initial and she fired up and idled, going to check some stuff out shortly with the light. did talk to engine builder and he said about 12-14* initial would be pretty close.

 

I would probably set it at about 36* advanced at 3000 rpms.

 

That would be my advice as well. Screw initial timming. Put a timming light on it and rev it until it stops advancing timming. Then set total timming to 32-36 deg.

 

thanks all. i initially set it for 13 degrees, and it was advancing to 31* and was all in by 2500. i've decided not to put this car on the highway so am going to lock the timing out at the sweet spot wherever that is, 35-36.

 

That rotor is currently pointed at what's commonly firing position for cylinder # 8, rather than cylinder # 1. It looks as if you are two teeth too far advanced on your distributor. Of course, you can probably just switch spark plug wires on the loom but typically cylinder #1 firing position is when the rotor is pointed at the oil pressure port on the top of the shortblock.

 

LOL had to do that in my 3rd gen when i had timing 180 off much eaiser than pulling the dist. back out!


Don

 

nah, it was pointing at #1. thanks though.

 

your total timing is altered by the heads you are running. effecient newer heads like less timing and older cast iron(no matter how good they are ported)heads like more timing. 10-14 initial with 30-32 with newer head and 36 on older heads. this is general but what i see most on the dyno

 

hmmm... interesting. these are World Products Motown 220 cast iron heads. what category would you put them in byron ? thx