I have had an LT1 one before, liked it. Now I have a project 1980 Z28 that I have decided to put into storage for a few years and get a LS1 F-body. I want the LS1 Trans Am with the big "Nostrils" and WS6. What should I look for...........problems........I know the opti-spark was a big deal on the LT1, but what about LS1s........anything I should look for? I want an auto, tired of shifting.........haven't had an auto in YEARS..........

What can I get for $10K?

Thanks, and looking forward to being a new LS1 owner

 

I'm going to move this to General Tech as the discussion could get technical. Also, there will be a good deal of comparison going on (LT1 vs LS1).

However, this thread is not LS1 Engine Tech specific and any posts not "engine" specific will be moved from now on.

Thanks for your understanding.

-Mindgame

 

Thanks, I forgot about this section

 

No problem.... to forget is human.

-Mindgame

 

piston slap (noisy on startup usually if it has it- sounds like a diesel from what i've heard which might be an exaggeration)
that and they burn a little bit of oil
i guess 2 more things to toss in is that they have aluminum blocks that some say aren't as strong as the iron blocks like in the lt1 you had (don't ask me, just posting what i heard)
lastly, their torque curve is much different
they are sorta low on it til about 3k and then they rip

you might've already known most of that but...just checking

 

Is the piston slap bad enough to have the dealers recall them? I have heard also that the power is mostly higher RPM's as opposed to the torqy LT1

 

hmm, i think some have been able to get the dealer to fix it...i'm not sure that happens to everybody or not
yea, most say the lt1 feels more powerful...til that ls1 screams past you

 

Most guys that have gotten the engine replaced were because their piston slap was so excessive the cylinder bores were out of spec. I have never ridden in a stock lt1 so I have nothing to compare it to, but I know when I was in FL my car pulled super hard. Now that I'm in Idaho it seemed slower, but still managed to pull a 13.4@104 (at an elevation of 3500ft) with a lid and cutouts. Which by the way are some of the cheapest most effective mods you can do to an ls1 for the money. Next would be a cam and headers or since you are going to get an auto a stall. As far as what you can afford I would say you shouldn't have too hard of a time finding a 98 at or below 10k. One other thing you should know is pinion seal leaking is a very common problem, as well as warped rotors. As far as the piston slap goes, if it goes away once the motor is warmed up it isn't a big deal, but if it doesn't stay away. If you manage to get something that is still covered under GM's waranty and it has piston slap several people have called GM and gotten their factory warranties extended. Hope that answers some of your questions.

 

Thanks keeps 'em coming!!!

 

Yes, the LS1 uses an aluminum block, but they're a deep skirt block, with 6-bolt mains, so I don't think there's any concern about strength. Hey, there are engine builders turning LS1's into ~382's, 395's, 408's, 422's, 427's all the time!

I don't know a whole lot about it, but I think that SOME of the earlier LS1's (~98's? ) had a slight oil consumption problem, due to rings I think, and that probably contributes to more excessive piston slap? I don't think I'd let that steer me away from one though.

Otherwise, the LS1 WS6 Trans-Ams are sweet cars. The "ram-air" is somewhat functional, and they just look cool as hell! Also, a WS6 w/automatic transmission should have the upgraded 3.23 rear axle, instead of the standard 2.73's (that's a plus ). With not too much work, you can be chasing low 13's (like me \/ ) or even hit 12's........and still get decent fuel mileage!