Finally Accepting the Sad Fact
Finally Accepting the Sad Fact
Well, after 8 months of trying to think optimistic. Im finally accepting the fact that my '96 Z/28 is in a desperate need of a serious overhaul allround.
I bought the car for very cheap with very high miles (185,XXX). I have many codes yelling at me, the car runs hot etc... So i begin my list of things i must do and would appreciate anyone to point me in the right direction for various things.
Heres my List of things to do/fix/replace:
-Rebuild/Replace Engine= I have already lined up a 383 LT1 longblock rated at 405 HP 445 ft-lbs.
-Engine/Tranny Mounts
-Fix Transmission= Have a performabuilt level 2, but cant use 4th gear because of various issues.
-Steering has WAY too much play in the wheel= Tried realignment, didnt help too much.
-New Rear End = Suggestions anyone i was thinking of 12 bolt but cant seem to find one for my car.
-Fuel system= have a racetronix system sitting in my room
-Front axle/housing repair/replacement= possibly linked to my cars inability to move in a straight line.
-Realign body peices/panels= front end in general is out of line and hood doesnt line up properly
-new paint
-New electrical system= probably a new wiring harness for the dang thing
-Traction Control= i hate this thing any way to get rid of it
-Engine tune= where i live there are no emission laws is it possibly to tune the car to cancel the air pump, and the two O2 sensors after the Cats (i dont have them anymore)
Theres more and ill state it later but as yall can see i have my work cut out for me.
I bought the car for very cheap with very high miles (185,XXX). I have many codes yelling at me, the car runs hot etc... So i begin my list of things i must do and would appreciate anyone to point me in the right direction for various things.
Heres my List of things to do/fix/replace:
-Rebuild/Replace Engine= I have already lined up a 383 LT1 longblock rated at 405 HP 445 ft-lbs.
-Engine/Tranny Mounts
-Fix Transmission= Have a performabuilt level 2, but cant use 4th gear because of various issues.
-Steering has WAY too much play in the wheel= Tried realignment, didnt help too much.
-New Rear End = Suggestions anyone i was thinking of 12 bolt but cant seem to find one for my car.
-Fuel system= have a racetronix system sitting in my room
-Front axle/housing repair/replacement= possibly linked to my cars inability to move in a straight line.
-Realign body peices/panels= front end in general is out of line and hood doesnt line up properly
-new paint
-New electrical system= probably a new wiring harness for the dang thing
-Traction Control= i hate this thing any way to get rid of it
-Engine tune= where i live there are no emission laws is it possibly to tune the car to cancel the air pump, and the two O2 sensors after the Cats (i dont have them anymore)
Theres more and ill state it later but as yall can see i have my work cut out for me.
Last edited by KajunKadillac; Oct 31, 2008 at 12:01 AM.
You can get drop-in 12-bolt rear axle assemblies from Strange or Moser. There's also the Strange (Dana) SD-60 and 9-inch rears available. Several of our Supporting Vendors sell these.
Your PCM can be tuned to eliminate the AIR and after-cat O2 sensors.
There is no "front axle". You need new suspension bushings, ball joints and tie-rod ends. Possibly a new steering rack. Also check the upper spring seat/shock mount assemblies.
Performabuilt is a Supporting Vendor.... have you asked them what needs to be done to the tranny?
Energy Supension makes a polyurethane tranny mount and engine mount fillers. May transmit more vibration than stockers.
Traction control is easilly removed with replacement of the throttle cable required.
Your PCM can be tuned to eliminate the AIR and after-cat O2 sensors.
There is no "front axle". You need new suspension bushings, ball joints and tie-rod ends. Possibly a new steering rack. Also check the upper spring seat/shock mount assemblies.
Performabuilt is a Supporting Vendor.... have you asked them what needs to be done to the tranny?
Energy Supension makes a polyurethane tranny mount and engine mount fillers. May transmit more vibration than stockers.
Traction control is easilly removed with replacement of the throttle cable required.
I noticed on Moser's website that the Ford 9" F Body Bolt in Package is less than half the price than the 12 bolt package, makes want to get the 9" now, anything special i need with the 9 "?
Their website is confusing, the 9" and 12 bolt are about the same price.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=4&pcid=66
You should look into all the pros and cons of 12 bolt vs 9", and you might even consider the S60. Try a search.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=4&pcid=66
You should look into all the pros and cons of 12 bolt vs 9", and you might even consider the S60. Try a search.
replacing the stock steering shaft (peice that connects the column to the rack) with one from a 98+ camaro firebird v6 or v8(they are the same). This will eliminate the rag joint that is most likely causing slop in the wheel. You will have to have an alignment to straiten the wheel as it will be about 40* off.
f cars use a rag joint to lessen excess steering wheel vibration. That is most likely the slack in the steering problem and the cheapest to replace. The lt1 will do quite well without all the pollution pumps and hoses.
Codes:
The temp sensor and 02 sensors as well as all the weak stock bushings in motor mounts, tranny, lower control arms and torque arm mountings are slated to expire at about 100k miles,...it is hard to kill the ABS inop light...
With attention to these planned obsolescence parts you can end up with a sweet running,
fun car that outclasses most and will out run them too.
Codes:
The temp sensor and 02 sensors as well as all the weak stock bushings in motor mounts, tranny, lower control arms and torque arm mountings are slated to expire at about 100k miles,...it is hard to kill the ABS inop light...
With attention to these planned obsolescence parts you can end up with a sweet running,
fun car that outclasses most and will out run them too.
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