door lock mechanism
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 663
From: Clarksville, TN
door lock mechanism
Is it possible to replace the door lock mechanism? I believe this is the problem behind the fact that my doors won’t unlock any more. I think the housing may have broke or something because they are both loose.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,139
From: Aiken, Sc
are you talking about the lock cylender? If so then yes just go to a junk yard and get some new ones and take them and your key to a locksmith to be rekeyd. If your talking about the rods just get new ones from a junkyard. If your talking about the electric actuators that unlock the doors then you can get them through the dealer. If your talking about the plastic clips that hold the rods in they sell them at most parts stores for about 2 bucks for 5
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 663
From: Clarksville, TN
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 663
From: Clarksville, TN
Nope. They are connected by a rod. The actuators are on the backside of the door right above the latch. I'm not even sure how they are attached to the door yet. The only thing I'm sure off is it will be a PITA to fix.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 663
From: Clarksville, TN
I did another search today and found this:
My driver-side door lock recently failed. It would get stuck in the locked position. My remote wouldn't unlock it, and the key didn't seem to work either. The manual lock in the door panel worked fine, however.
After pulling of the door panel, and ultimately removing the latch assy (three torx heads at the door jam) I found the problem.
1. The latch assy was dirty and the grease had dried out, and was a bit sticky, making it difficult for the key and the power solenoid to move.
2. As a result of above, the small white rubber "bushing"? between the solenoid arm and the latch ripped, and the arm poped out of the bushing.
I cleaned everything up and lubed it. Then I removed the white bushing, flipped it 180, then applied a dab of RTVto keep it from popping out.
Its a real shame that this problem was caused by a little rubber part that probably cost about 1 penny. It seems that most of the problems I've had with my Z are a result of GM not paying attention to details. I really hope things have changed for the better on newer GM products.
After pulling of the door panel, and ultimately removing the latch assy (three torx heads at the door jam) I found the problem.
1. The latch assy was dirty and the grease had dried out, and was a bit sticky, making it difficult for the key and the power solenoid to move.
2. As a result of above, the small white rubber "bushing"? between the solenoid arm and the latch ripped, and the arm poped out of the bushing.
I cleaned everything up and lubed it. Then I removed the white bushing, flipped it 180, then applied a dab of RTVto keep it from popping out.
Its a real shame that this problem was caused by a little rubber part that probably cost about 1 penny. It seems that most of the problems I've had with my Z are a result of GM not paying attention to details. I really hope things have changed for the better on newer GM products.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 663
From: Clarksville, TN
Fixed it. Pull it apart and it was just as described in the quote I posted above. Cleaned it up real good and put in some Gorilla Glue, the some RTV around that. Working good...at least for now.
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