Its 30 bucks and like 20 bucks to weld it. Thats like 50 bucks, if it gives you 3hp it is a worthwhile modification. That comes out to 16dollars/HP.

Plus it sounds bad ***.

I say go for it.

- Z28WAnnab

 

you must be talking about the price and cost of a cut out. i am not so sure i am going to go with a cut out any more afetr doing some reading and rereading. if anything i will do ltheadrers and thats about it. i have a couple buddies that will be blowing their mustangs this summer and of course i dont want to get passed up by the pony, but i also have to keep in mind that my 94 z only has 17,000 mi on it. so i really do not want to dig into the motor or anything that cannot be changed back to complete original.

 

WOW so many stupid posts in here...

First off: No! the cutout itself doesn't cause a decrease in torque when placed behind the cat. It acts the exact same way as a high flow exhaust. What do you think a Loud Mouth is(not aimed at thread starter... just using as an example since it is basically straight through)? The muffler itself in no way increases performance. It is meant to QUIET the car!

Secondly: If you place a cutout right after the headers, it will NOT lose torque due to "lack of backpressure." It is the SCAVENGING effect! Not backpressure that matters! Look up in the Advanced Forum for more info about this. Now, if you place the cutout right behind the collectors(basically the exact same thing as open headers), it will cause a decrease in torque on the bottom end, but NOT because of backpressure. It is because at lower speeds/loads(when the exhaust output is low), outside air will make it's way back into the headers, touching the O2 sensors, telling the computer that it is too lean, and to dump more fuel in. Running rich... causing a loss in power. This won't happen at higher rpms since the exhaust output can overcome the atmospheric air. That is why for some strange reason this never happens to carbed cars

Last: burning your valves from cooling from the air? Oh brother. I'm not even gonna touch this one. Won't happen.

Also... anything that is intake or exhaust related, if it flows more it will make it more efficient. I guess the best way to explain it is this: take as big of a breath in as you possibly can, then blow out through a coffee stirring stick(midget *** straw). Now do the same thing again but through a regular straw. You moved (about) the same amount of air each time, but which produced more force at the end/did the work faster?

Now there is a limit to this, you can't just run open valved on your engine, the headers are needed because with every exhaust pulse, as it exits the pipes, it leaves a very small vacuum behind it, which in turn sucks the next exhaust pulse out. That is why equal-length headers are detrimental to making the most power possible.

::takes big breath::

 

thanks for the input flatlander. i did list thread as a stupid one. i am pretty new to h.o. cars and that is why i asked i do searches all the time and if i do not find what i am looking for i post a question. but now after doing some more reading and watching some vodeos i have been thinking of going to a supercharger. i would consider that bolt on. i would want a self contained unti. maybe ati or powerdyne. the only thing is that i do not want to change anything with the motor. beside of course ltheaders. i think i would like to be between the 400-450 range of hp and tq. i will probably be posting in the induction forum to see what they have to say. of course i am completely in the air with this because i do not know if i am going to do anything at all.

 

Well no matter what you do, if 400hp is what you want then you will need to free the flow for the intake and the exhaust, so that means a CAI, LTs(or mids), and a catback/cutout.

Superchargers will put enormous strain on a stock block. The stock internals won't take more than about 5psi, and even then don't count on it lasting more than to about 100k miles(which is a lot... but then again I'm sitting on 196k now).

They should also not be considered a bolt-on. You will definitely need a GREAT computer tune(preferably dyno tune... I wouldn't risk my engine with a mail order tune if I went for FI), which means you need(I THINK?) wideband O2 sensors(something like $700 I believe), and you would need bigger injectors, probably a faster fuel pump(MAJOR pain to drop your tank!), and depending on the system you buy, you gotta route oil lines to the SCer.

I know you mentioned this is your first high horsepower car... I dunno if I would go from bone stock to 450whp so soon... may end up like this guy:
http://videos.streetfire.net/Player....20%20crash&p=0

Do intake/exhaust first, basic bolt-ons, then see where you wanna go.

 

yeah i still need to do reading on the sc/pc option. i dont see a problem with it being installed on a stock motor. vortech says they bolt on to stock motor and with lt headers it will produce 400hp/tq. they also said it should be installed on a car with less than 40k mi. most kits come complete.

 

Ask anyone with an engine that is built for forced induction what their compression ratio is. They will NOT tell you 10.8:1 It would ideally be 9.5:1 at the ABSOLUTE most. The stock engine is not built to take boost. It's only a matter of time until you screw up your ringlands.

Now you do have low mileage, but I don't think it's a wise idea to boost a stock motor.

 

He's right, high compression + boost = bad things for street engines. IMO, for these cars as daily drivers, N/A is the way to go.

 

I believe if you're using it as a daily driver, you'd be much more content in making it a jack of all trades, much like I plan on doing.

I'm going to actually get some revalved bilsteins, a 35mm front swaybar, and run it in the F-stock class at the local SCCA auto-x events. I already have a cutout btw, the electric valve is fun to play with

I'll eventually move of on get new wheels, a paintjob, hotcam kit, and upgrade the entire suspension so it can pull a good .90 lateral gs and be a solid 12 second daily driver.

 

^how would the hotcam be for daily driving, gas mileage considered? Also, will you run it on stock unported heads and on an otherwise stock engine (with bolt ons)? Im trying to weigh out internal mods vs. forced induction, goal is about 350 hp. Not trying to hijack or anything, just a quick question

 

i am going to call ati and vortech today and see what they have to say. also thanks dgz sounds like you dont want to touch your motor as well. i did have plans to do rims and tires first, 18''zo6 in black or i may take my salad shooters to a powder coater. not sure i just heard that an old friend of mine does it and may do it for me for next to nothing, maybe some tall boys.
flatlander i am not knocking your advice but i would like to hear form some people with history in sc/pc. i know i have read about it and most cars are already over the hill when they are installed. by over the hill i mean 100k plus. i have started a thread in the iduction forum. i think it would be more appropriate to continue this chat there. i have not done it yet. i am more than like ly going to need somebody to come to my door and tell me its a horrible idea. more than like ly all ill do this year is headers and tires/rims, but usually when i get something in my head i do it. yeah i am a single white male, i hunt, fish, try to race my car, work nights and get off at five and have a few bud heavy with my crew.

 

That's cool, I think it's great that you are taking more than just one person's advice, it's the smart thing to do Though I'll tell you this: You can't just bolt on a supercharger and hope for good times. If you were to do the supporting mods first, it would help get you better gas mileage(CAI and exhaust) in the meantime, refreshen the entire top end(1.6RRs), and you could get a hotcam which won't noticably affect your gas mileage/has a great power curve/and takes VERY well to nitrous Right before buying a blower(later down the road!), I would get the heads ported and polished and get a custom ground blower cam to get the most out of your setup. It will net you more volumetric efficiency. Ported heads lower boost pressure, but it is still moving more air, so it doesn't have to compress as much meaning the air isn't heated as much so more power. Basically the same way an intercooler works(in a way).

You actually sound a bit like me IMO I used to want to build the meanest nastiest Camaro that would lose to NOTHING on the street. Well I got caught racing and I believe I'm going to goa smarter route and set it up for auto-x and make it something to show off driving down the strip at the beach
I don't have a dragstrip any closer than an hour away, but there are bi-weekly autox events not even 3 miles from my house, so I'll do what is closer.

 

well i did talk to vortech today and they said that the v2sq was made for completely bone stock cars. of course i would get the intercooler. i then talked to a hi perf shop and they said they would install with 50#inj., headers and dyno tune for 6100$. id didnt think this was too bad since the vortech kit with intercooler is around 4800$. i didnt ask them about an ati pc but i am sure that would be a little less. i have been doing alot of reading and am still waiting for input from the inductions forum. they just say search. i have had no luck with the search function. always get a cannot find page.