I'm having some problems with my new Z28. Here are two that are kicking my butt.

1.) power door locks do not work. The key that came with the car does not open either door (drivers door is from a 99 camaro). It also has keyless entry but I don't have the "fob". I've troubleshooted via shorting terminal 4 and 8 on the DLC. Instead of the locks cycling, the transmitter just made a noise. I've checked all wiring and fuses that I could. I'm clueless what to do know.

2.) the motor in the car is from a caprice. When the PO installed it, he never hooked up the oil pressure sensor or water temp sensor in the cylinder head. He went farther than that by cutting the connectors and hiding the wiring in the loom. I got connectors off a roadmaster and the coolant temp sensor works. Oil pressure before the sensor was installed would peg high as soon as I turn the key. With the sensor installed it will read 0 when the key is in the accessories on position. As soon as the car is on, it pegs high too. There is an aftermarket oil pressure gauge installed and usually reads in the 50psig area. I'm also clueless here.


any help would be great, even if its not a direct answer.

 

am I hopeless?

 

There is a single conductor wire to the temp sensor in the head. There is a single wire conductor to the oil pressure sensor. Shoebox has a labeled photo of the harness:

http://shbox.com/1/harness.htm

See if this helps.

"0" oil pressure indicates a circuit shorted to ground (0 resistance), "max" oil pressure indicates an open circuit.

He also has the power lock schematic:

http://shbox.com/1/pwr_dr_lock_schematic.jpg

and keyless entry:

http://shbox.com/1/keyless_schematic.jpg

 

in the accessory position, should oil pressure read 0 (car not running)?

 

When the engine is not running, the oil pressure is "0".

 

I understand that. I'm trying to get this all put together as to what is wrong

 

You've completely lost me. You asked a question, I answered the specific question, and now you seem upset that I told you the answer.

Maybe someone else can understand you and offer better help than I can.

Good luck.

 

Why the hell would he have put a engine from a Caprice in a Z28 WTF?

 

Why not, if that was what the PO had to work with?

 

I believe what he is asking is specific positions of gauge needles with the key in accessory as opposed to run. Like my tach that rests on the pin, well below zero with the key off, then reset back to 0 when the key goes back to run.

Why he's concerned about where the gauge positions are in accessory is beyond me, unless he's confusing accessory with run. With the key in accessory (turned counter clockwise past the lock position), the gauge panel doesn't receive power, so gauge positions are irrelevant. With the key in the on position, engine not running, oil pressure should be on zero.

The particular issue at hand here is that It sounds like either the Caprice/Roadmaster oil pressure sender is different than an F-body unit (I really don't know on that..just venturing a guess), or perhaps a short to ground on the circuit? Is the oil sender a 2 wire unit, or single wire? If two wire, could the wires be reversed in the connector, causing this behavior? The fact that it reads zero at key on engine off would seem to imply that the connections are good. May want to try a different sender as well, perhaps one made for the F-body.

 

+1 w/above post. If your gauge is pegged when running your sender may have a resistance higher than 90 ohms when running. You can test for correct sensor/or operation, it's a single wire connector. Pull connector off sensor and meter the sensor to chassis ground for resistance. Engine off s/b 10 ohms or less, engine running resistance should increase to 90 ohms at full pressure (80 lbs). If you aftermarket gauge is at 50 lbs then I would guess you should see 40-50 ohms with engine running at 50 lbs. By the way 50 lbs at idle is high for an LT1, min spec is 10 lbs per 1K RPM, mine is at 20lbs at 700 RPM..

 

OP has not been back to the site in 4 weeks.

 

On that, bugs me to no end when I attempt to search for a problem, find 200 related threads, and only one or two with even some troubleshooting ideas, much less solutions.

Even if the OP doesn't come back, these threads can still prove useful to someone else who may come across it in a search, since that's always one of the first things tossed out to the new guys..."would have solved this in five seconds with a search!".

Either that, or just delete the thread if it's open ended and the OP doesn't return in a timely fashion so that future searches are more efficient.