Code Scanner advice
Code Scanner advice
Can any of you guys recommend a decent code scanner that will work for a '95 z28? I really dont want to spend too much on one, but I do need one to see what code(s) it's throwing.
I'm not aware of any code-only scanners. Only aware of various OBD-I scanners (read codes PLUS sensors, PCM parameters) that will work on your 95, with the correct adapter plug to connect the scanners 12-pin OBD-I pin to your 95's 16-pin OBD-II style plug. If it doeasn't come with an adapter plug, there is a photo on Shoebox's site showing how to jumper the pins from one connector to the other.
http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg
Look around for a used Auto Xray OBD-I scanner. They had an adapter available. Or, if you have other vehicles that are OBD-II, get a scanner with both OBD-I and OBD-II capabilities. Expensive, but useful.
Finally, you can scan and datalog your 95 with the correct cable from AKM, a laptop, and free scan software like FreeScan or DataMaster.
http://www.akmcables.com/
http://www.andywhittaker.com/
http://www.ttspowersystems.com/
http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg
Look around for a used Auto Xray OBD-I scanner. They had an adapter available. Or, if you have other vehicles that are OBD-II, get a scanner with both OBD-I and OBD-II capabilities. Expensive, but useful.
Finally, you can scan and datalog your 95 with the correct cable from AKM, a laptop, and free scan software like FreeScan or DataMaster.
http://www.akmcables.com/
http://www.andywhittaker.com/
http://www.ttspowersystems.com/
Well, I got a got a scanner with both OBD-I and OBD-II, got it to work and check for codes, but there are none present?
, car still runs like crap when its warmed up, hesitation mainly, new plugs and wires, new coil, fairly new cap and rotor. I dont know what to do now...
, car still runs like crap when its warmed up, hesitation mainly, new plugs and wires, new coil, fairly new cap and rotor. I dont know what to do now...
Your 95 won't set codes for misfires (added with 96 OBD-II) and there is nothing set for problems with the high voltage section of the Opti. There are no codes set by things like leaking or plugged injectors. Exhaust leaks and misfires can screw up the A/F ratio, and not set codes.
Now that you can scan it, you might want to read my online scanner guide, and see how some of the data matches up to what its supposed to be:
http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/ScanMast.htm
Now that you can scan it, you might want to read my online scanner guide, and see how some of the data matches up to what its supposed to be:
http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/ScanMast.htm
Thanks, I looked at the link, alot of great info on there. Had a question about the knock reading. It says your supposed to read zero, but with the engine warmed up, I'm getting like 22*,(at idle) and with a quick rev on the throttle, it goes up to about 32*
I did have a couple things that I didnt know what they were...
LT Fuel TR CL, got a reading of 16
Lt Fuel TRM L, 118
Lt Fuel TRM R, 120
It leads me to think because of the high knock reading, it might be the knock sensor?
I did have a couple things that I didnt know what they were...
LT Fuel TR CL, got a reading of 16
Lt Fuel TRM L, 118
Lt Fuel TRM R, 120
It leads me to think because of the high knock reading, it might be the knock sensor?
Last edited by droptop z; Jun 17, 2007 at 10:46 PM.
There's nothing wrong with your knock sensor.
You didn't read far enough. When you see 22* at idle and 32* when you blip the throttle, that is the ignition advance, not the knock retard. It may have a minus sign in front of it, because that is the advance referenced to TDC.
The Cell and long terms (BLM's) are also explained in the second 1/2 of the writeup. Cell 16 is where the long term fuel corrections are stored for idle. You want the long terms to be as close to 128 as possible, and very close to each other. "0" correction is 128. Your PCM is sensing a slight rich condition at idle, and pulling out 7.8% fuel on the drivers bank of the engine, and 6.3% on the passenger bank. Could be any number of things causing it, like high fuel pressure, miscalibrated or dirty MAF, saturated EVAP canister, EGR stuck open, etc.
You didn't read far enough. When you see 22* at idle and 32* when you blip the throttle, that is the ignition advance, not the knock retard. It may have a minus sign in front of it, because that is the advance referenced to TDC.
The Cell and long terms (BLM's) are also explained in the second 1/2 of the writeup. Cell 16 is where the long term fuel corrections are stored for idle. You want the long terms to be as close to 128 as possible, and very close to each other. "0" correction is 128. Your PCM is sensing a slight rich condition at idle, and pulling out 7.8% fuel on the drivers bank of the engine, and 6.3% on the passenger bank. Could be any number of things causing it, like high fuel pressure, miscalibrated or dirty MAF, saturated EVAP canister, EGR stuck open, etc.
I guess I was headed in the wrong direction, I cleaned my MAF today, saturated EVAP canister sounds right because it has been smelling like fuel at the back drivers side. I"ll probably check the canister next, and I got to find out how to check the EGR valve. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction.
I'm not aware of any code-only scanners. Only aware of various OBD-I scanners (read codes PLUS sensors, PCM parameters) that will work on your 95, with the correct adapter plug to connect the scanners 12-pin OBD-I pin to your 95's 16-pin OBD-II style plug. If it doeasn't come with an adapter plug, there is a photo on Shoebox's site showing how to jumper the pins from one connector to the other.
http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg
Look around for a used Auto Xray OBD-I scanner. They had an adapter available. Or, if you have other vehicles that are OBD-II, get a scanner with both OBD-I and OBD-II capabilities. Expensive, but useful.
Finally, you can scan and datalog your 95 with the correct cable from AKM, a laptop, and free scan software like FreeScan or DataMaster.
http://www.akmcables.com/
http://www.andywhittaker.com/
http://www.ttspowersystems.com/
http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg
Look around for a used Auto Xray OBD-I scanner. They had an adapter available. Or, if you have other vehicles that are OBD-II, get a scanner with both OBD-I and OBD-II capabilities. Expensive, but useful.
Finally, you can scan and datalog your 95 with the correct cable from AKM, a laptop, and free scan software like FreeScan or DataMaster.
http://www.akmcables.com/
http://www.andywhittaker.com/
http://www.ttspowersystems.com/
Hi Guys I have a 1999 Stock Camaro 5.7L and was looking for some advice about these OBD-II Scanners. Down here in Australia we as you know have Holdens that have the same (I think) Motors LS1 in them, my question is can I get the Dealers to scan my car using there units or is the pin configuration different ??? 
I found this info which put the doubt in my mind.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/aldl8192/8192hw.htm
Regards Graeme

I found this info which put the doubt in my mind.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/aldl8192/8192hw.htm
Regards Graeme
The serial data, ground and +12V pins appear to be the same as the US. The unidentified/shaded pins are in different locations than shown on a US connector. Best/safest thing to do would simply be to contact the manufacturer of the scanner or software/cable you are looking at, and ask them about compatibility with an Australian ALDL connector.
Down here in Australia I found out Holden (GM down under) do not have the software to read my 1999 Camaro's codes, found a company in Sydney who can do it but wants $150 AU to download the codes ! Bit rich I thought. As I can buy one on eBay for about the same price !.
Could someone tell me if these are any good or where I should be looking.
O yes I checked the plate in the engine bay and it is OBD11 compliant.
The eBay item is from the US, are these OK, I do not want to buy one that is rubbish or will not work as I think I would be stuck with it and no chance to return it
.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA:IT&ih=010
item No- 200179981204
OR http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unive...QQcmdZViewItem
Item number: 190177510510
Could someone tell me if these are any good or where I should be looking.
O yes I checked the plate in the engine bay and it is OBD11 compliant.
The eBay item is from the US, are these OK, I do not want to buy one that is rubbish or will not work as I think I would be stuck with it and no chance to return it
.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA:IT&ih=010
item No- 200179981204
OR http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unive...QQcmdZViewItem
Item number: 190177510510
Last edited by graeme; Dec 1, 2007 at 03:54 AM. Reason: add another item for review


