Will this cable work? It's taking about hunkering wires too so i want to make sure.


ALDL OBD1 OBD cable OBDI OBD2 engine codes

 

That 12-pin one should work. The hard part is getting the software to use. TTI Datamaster would be ideal but is expensive after the first 20 free uses. Freescan may work after installing some USB/serial port driver.

Here is a trick that I used for demo software that expires after a certain time or number of uses. Use an old pc that you have retired that has an original recovery CD. Install the demo software and use it until it expires. Then reinstall everything on the pc using the recovery CD, so that it starts completely from scratch. Typically this takes up to an hour but can be done while you are away from it. Reinstall your demo software and it is reset to zero uses again.

 

Appears Andy Whittaker's FreeScan is now a "paid" item, and you have to go to ECUFix.com to get it. People have had problems accessing Andy's website, and it still seems to take forever to load. When you get there, it directs you as above:

FreeScan Paid For Edition [FreeScan] - %u00A39.99 : ECUFix.com, Affordable Technology

 

All you need is an OBD-I scanner. Simple as that. If you can find an Actron CP9145 that many people use (now discontinued), it will scan I and II (for any newer cars you own).

 

Simple maybe, but expensive for some of us. The only CP9145 I could find is about $125 and does not come with the required OBD1 cable (about $40 more). The replacement for it is the CP9185 which typically sells for well over $200, again minus the OBD1 cable.

 

Thanks guys. I'm checking into both options. I hope to get this figured out soon as its killing my gas mileage and when the service engine light goes off I get an overwhelming smell of oil burning. It stumbles a bit like I'm in the wrong gear then the light will come back on and it smooths out and away goes the smell.

 

Here's a freescan download site, not sure how log it will be around. FreeScan | Free Communications software downloads at SourceForge.net

 

Ok guys just want to make sure of something before I order the cable. My 12 pin connector only has 4 wires. It has the a, b, m, and g terminals but nothing else. Its it supposed to have more?

 

That is normal (4 wires only).

 

Small price to pay for something you must have to be able to work on a modern car. It will pay for itself very quickly by saving you time, you not having to guess and replacing unnecessary parts.

 

The $200 (or whatever it cost - I can't remember) I spent for my ScanMaster LT1 15 years ago was the best investment I ever made. And that only works on a very specific engine. Watching the PCM manage the engine real time, and seeing how various aspects responded to changes or problems, plus a lot of homework with shop manuals, helped me make the quantum leap from carburetors to EFI.

You can teach an old dog new tricks..... with the right tools.

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo.../DCP04287a.jpg

 

Just wondering if you have ever replaced your o2 sensor? I had 180K on mine and the check engine light came on. Advance said he didn't have a reader but to try and replace the O2's. That worked for me. After a while they get old and need replacing I guess. There's was no logic behind Advance Auto tech other than they were old. Performance improved on the car as well. I am no way any expert on this. Just relaying my experience. These other guys on here seem much more experts.

 

OK Guys got my aldl cable today and after messing around with it for about 2 hours was finally able to get pcmcomm software to work. Don't know what I'm doing wrong with the others but oh well. So my codes are DTC 84 3-2 downshift feedback fault (ODM), DTC 91 1-4 shift light fault, DTC 48 mass airflow system failure, and DTC 44 left O² sensor lean. I'm thinking the first two have to do with disconnecting the skip shift and light from the computer which I don't really care about. The others I'm guessing the components are bad. While data logging I was sitting around 7 gm/sec airflow and it was going up and down smoothly while driving. As far as the 0² sensor and data logging the left one was sitting pretty solid at around 49 to 58 mv all the time never moving no matter what. The right was all over the place from 131 to 850+ mv as near as I could tell. So am I reading this right, I need at least one 0² sensor (might as well replace both) and what about this maf sensor?

 

The right O2 sensor is outputting a typical signal in closed loop operation. It should be continuously moving up and down in the range you noted. The left one is stuck for some reason, maybe a defective sensor or something else is wrong in the loop. Check for an exhaust leak or a stuck closed injector on that side as well as a possible damaged wire at the sensor.

The MAF sensor code is a little questionable because you can see the reported air flow change normally. The code indicates it is not working at all. It may have an intermittent connection.

 

I did happen to look at the injectors while data logging and it did say they were operating normally. If everything else is a sign on this car that 0² is OEM probably so is the maf sensor. With 210,000 miles on the car I'm betting the stuff is just worn out. I did do a test on the maf the other day by unplugging it with the car running and it almost killed the car. Very well could be a loose connection though.