Best engine and parts paint ever....Never powder coat again.
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,405
From: Kantuckee Yo'
Best engine and parts paint ever....Never powder coat again.
Just had to do some raving on the POR15 paints and products:
www.por15.com
I have used it many times in the past on my Jeep Wrangler and it does what it promises when it comes to durability and good looks. No spray paint anywhere even comes close to this stuff.
I just got finished using POR15 engine enamel on my brake calipers and brackets as well as many other misc. parts. I will be doing the entire block in a few weeks. This paint can be brushed or sprayed but I think brushing gives the best results. When using throw away brushes or even foam brushes they will not leave any brush strokes at all, truly amazing how the finish just flows so smooth. The finish dries very hard and is impervious to all chemicals and fluids under the hood.
The straight POR15 rust paint is very good too, you can apply it right over rust which is the desirable way to do it. I painted my rusty Jeep leaf springs a year ago and they still look brand new. This paint dries super rock hard and is chip resistant and goes on also very smooth with a brush. This is the only stuff to use when restoring older cars and painting frames.
The POR20 is the super high temp paint which I have used on exhaust pipes and headers. I even painted my catalytic converter and it did not burn off.
The POR15 products are a tad pricey but you will quickly see that a small can can go a very long way plus you will never ever powder coat again. When I was cleaning my powder coated intake with carb cleaner it was etching the paint. When I used the same cleaner on POR15 finished parts not etching period.
Just wanted to pass this along.
www.por15.com
I have used it many times in the past on my Jeep Wrangler and it does what it promises when it comes to durability and good looks. No spray paint anywhere even comes close to this stuff.
I just got finished using POR15 engine enamel on my brake calipers and brackets as well as many other misc. parts. I will be doing the entire block in a few weeks. This paint can be brushed or sprayed but I think brushing gives the best results. When using throw away brushes or even foam brushes they will not leave any brush strokes at all, truly amazing how the finish just flows so smooth. The finish dries very hard and is impervious to all chemicals and fluids under the hood.
The straight POR15 rust paint is very good too, you can apply it right over rust which is the desirable way to do it. I painted my rusty Jeep leaf springs a year ago and they still look brand new. This paint dries super rock hard and is chip resistant and goes on also very smooth with a brush. This is the only stuff to use when restoring older cars and painting frames.
The POR20 is the super high temp paint which I have used on exhaust pipes and headers. I even painted my catalytic converter and it did not burn off.
The POR15 products are a tad pricey but you will quickly see that a small can can go a very long way plus you will never ever powder coat again. When I was cleaning my powder coated intake with carb cleaner it was etching the paint. When I used the same cleaner on POR15 finished parts not etching period.
Just wanted to pass this along.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 746
From: Rochester Hills, MI
I agree - love the stuff and have used it many times. It's amazingly tough and smooth, but it's also very picky about how you apply it. 2-3 coats are needed for uniform color, and the cure time between coats is critical to get a good bond. I haven't used it for rust so much, but more for clean metal.
Surface prep with their recommended products is really important. I rushed the degrease and etch of a few moly chassis tubes and had some paint bubble off in a few areas. And, for visible parts that get hit by sunlight, even indirectly, use one of their UV stabilized topcoats! The regular POR 15 black I used on my homebuilt car chassis has turned a little chalky. Rats. For headers I have used the high temp, and added some 'thermally reflective glass microballoons', with good results. I like theit suggestion to paint the INSISDE of exhaust systems by swabbing it with a rag on a stick, etc, to prevent corrosion.
The only real problem I have had is using their products is with the 'tycoat primer', which is supposed to let you put a non-POR paint on top of the POR. I painted rusted bumpers with POR, then tycoat, then PPG, and the PPG disolved the Tycoat in a few areas where I laid it on a wet coat. Oh, and POR takes about 2 weeks to come off your hands! A few years ago I painted a piece of regular grade plywood with the stuff, and it's been stored outside ever since, edge on the ground. No water soaking in, rotting, etc. Try that with normal paint!
Surface prep with their recommended products is really important. I rushed the degrease and etch of a few moly chassis tubes and had some paint bubble off in a few areas. And, for visible parts that get hit by sunlight, even indirectly, use one of their UV stabilized topcoats! The regular POR 15 black I used on my homebuilt car chassis has turned a little chalky. Rats. For headers I have used the high temp, and added some 'thermally reflective glass microballoons', with good results. I like theit suggestion to paint the INSISDE of exhaust systems by swabbing it with a rag on a stick, etc, to prevent corrosion.
The only real problem I have had is using their products is with the 'tycoat primer', which is supposed to let you put a non-POR paint on top of the POR. I painted rusted bumpers with POR, then tycoat, then PPG, and the PPG disolved the Tycoat in a few areas where I laid it on a wet coat. Oh, and POR takes about 2 weeks to come off your hands! A few years ago I painted a piece of regular grade plywood with the stuff, and it's been stored outside ever since, edge on the ground. No water soaking in, rotting, etc. Try that with normal paint!
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 746
From: Rochester Hills, MI
Just thought of one more issue I have seen. Coolant discolored some Chevy Orange POR engine paint, turning it yellowish. It was a fresh paint job, maybe cured 2 weeks. Not fully cured yet, I think. Now that engine is 2 years old and paint looks great except for the stain.
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