Well heres my problem my battery seems to be dying as soon as I turn the key to start it. it cranks for maybe 2-3 seconds and then it dies out. but as soon as I turn the key to crank over everything dims. I don't know what it could be. any ideas guys?? thanks

Freddie

 

Are you sure it's the battery? Do you lights and other accessories still work fine, or do they die quickly as well? Could maybe be your starter, or something else ignition-wise failing, unless your sure it's the battery.

If it is the battery, try charging it or just get a new one.

 

everything dies. even something as simple as pressing my door lock my lights dim. I have a red top optima and charged it quite a bit to try and get it going. I took it to pep boys where I bought it thinking sometihng was wrong with it but they put it on three different testers and they say its good.

 

70% of batteries fail load tests in the last few minutes of the test. Walmart tested mine and it failed a couple of seconds before the test was over. If it isn't your battery then it's most likely your alternator and/ or starter.

 

I don't think its my alternator because it still drains it wen its unplugged. I really think its my battery but they wont give me another one because it didn't fail the test and I don't feel like spending the money on a new one unless I know its the battery wat else can drain my battery?

 

Mine was doing the same, it was losing the charge just couldnt hold it. Turned out to be the battery, it had bad cells

 

How did they test it? If they just hook up a volt meter and say it has 12 volts then that may be the problem. It isn't a load test.

You'll need to do a VAT-40 type of load test that has a carbon pile resistor. This will load the battery and check recovery.

Also, make sure your battery clamps are clean and tight.

If you are handy with a Voltmeter then connect one end to the negative battery post and the other end to the other end of the negative cable that leads to the battery. Secure it with a clamp or similar device so it is secure and crank the engine. You should have 0 Volts... this is called a voltage drop.

Do the same for the positive side, connect the Voltmeter to the Positive Post and the other end to the starter motor (hot cable). Crank the engine and you should have 0 Volts.

From Negative to Negative AND Positive to Positive you should have 0 Volts while cranking.

This will eliminate any bad cable or connection. I'd also check the Positive Post on the battery to the positive on the alternator for 0 Volts just to make sure there is no resistance in the line.

An Ohm test will test continuity, but there won't be a load so you can have a deceptive reading.

 

thanks for the replies guys i appreciate all of the help. wild1 i will try that tomorrow when i have some day light. i was so excited to crank her over today and the first couple times it was cranking for longer than it does now and the last time it cranked she started to fire so thats something to look forward to when i figure out the problem. i will put my battery on the charger tonight and see what it does tomorrow thanks again guys

 

AGM batteries like your Optima can NOT be charged with a conventional battery charger. A trickle charger is ok but anything above a trickle requires a special charger.

Severe battery damage will be the result of using the wrong charger.

don't forget the connections from the battery to the engine and frame and all those inbetween can sap the current from the battery if they are loose or corroded. Remove them, clean and retighten even if they appear ok.

 

There is a very common problem being caused by Delco side mount batteries.
They leak into, inside, the pos. and neg. bat. cables and corrode the wires. Some people have had almost the entire lenth of the pos. cable corroded with NO indiction of it from the outside.

 

Dude! Are you an idiot? Yes, what your saying will work but it will fry ANY voltmeter he trys it with. The starter draws WAY too much power to attempt this.

DON'T DO THIS

Re'

 

Who's the idiot for giving bad advice. The meter will not be damaged!!!! And the test won't work either!!!!! You were wrong on both.

What is described is the hook up of the meter for measuring current NOT VOLTAGE. And any hand held meter will only go to 10AMPS maximum. If you did leave the meter set to voltage and did this test, no current will flow since the meter has infinite resistance when set to voltage. So if you set the meter to voltage and hook it up as you describe, nothing will happen. The engine will not crank and the meter will show 12 (actually 12.6V) once the key is turned on.

If you hook it up and set it to read current in the maximum scale of 10AMPS, it will only blow the fuse inside the meter that is used to protect the meter in current mode. The reason the 10AMP fuse blows is the starter will pull OVER 60 AMPS.

If you wish to read current, there are several ways to accomplish it. Use a known resistor in the circuit and measure the voltage across it. Then calculate the current from there. OR, use clamp on am-meter. There are some available to plug into the hand held meter to read much higher currents.

Most people don't realize the fuse is blown and when they attempt to read leakage current (which should be 0 with the key off) it does indeed read 0 and the unsuspecting person thinks the circuit is ok when it may actually be a problem.

The voltage drop he should have eluded to is across the battery (meter set to voltage, leads on the positive and negative terminals). See what the voltage drops to when the starter is cranking.

So if he sets the meter to voltage and tries to read voltage in series with either battery cable, he will read battery voltage and the engine will not crank. No harm to the meter.

If he sets the meter to current measurement and puts the meter in series with either battery cable, he will blow the fuse, the meter will read 0, and again the engine will not crank over. No harm to the meter except the fuse which I bet 1/2 the peeps on this board currently have at this time and don't even realize it.

In either case, the test will NOT work nor will the meter be damaged.

He did get started on the right direction to finding his leakage problem or should I say his drain on the battery. If he leaves the meter in series and sets it to current mode, it will (if the fuse is intact) read the amount of current being drawn from the battery when the key is off. With the computer and radio, this draw will not be 0 but should not be any more than about 10 mA. If it is, there is something drawing current when it should not. At this point check anything that is connected directly to the battery that is not factory. Then if need be, start pulling fuses one at a time until the draw on the battery is gone.

Please think before you call someone an idiot.