An asinine refrigerant question...
04-07-2004, 09:27 PM
#17
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Statesville NC
Posts: 1,109
usualy... they do not ahve oil. leak stop usulay has oil.
the oil are usulay 2 ounce cans that also contain freon. unless you removed the oil from the system it's still there. it didnt go anywhere. but if you feel better go ahead and add the oil charge first then the rest of the freon.
the oil are usulay 2 ounce cans that also contain freon. unless you removed the oil from the system it's still there. it didnt go anywhere. but if you feel better go ahead and add the oil charge first then the rest of the freon.
04-07-2004, 09:36 PM
#18
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 102
Don't forget the 2oz oil charge, no oil in the system equals dead compressor. Especially on the 134 systems.
As for will the kits work from Autozone/Advance, yes, if you don't have the can tap with the low pressure hose you'll need to get one, which is supplied in the kits.
Now if the system has been opened to the air its best to vacuum it down to 20in and see if it will hold the vacuum for at least an hour or two. You can do this with a real vacuum pump if you have it or get yourself a air compressor powered one from a place like Harbor Freight tools (under $20). Drawback of the compressor operated one is that your compressor is going to run the entire time your using it. And it takes quite a while to really suck down a system, at least a good 20 minutes. Also you'll need to make adapters to go from the old R12 connection on the Harbor Freight tool.
Also if the system was opened its best to change the orifice tube. I have no idea where they hid it on the F cars, but it will be somewhere in the high pressure side of the system. Look for a connection with about a 4" straight length right after it, its probably in there.
The little gage supplied with the kits will get you in the ball park if everything else is working OK, but if the dryer, condensor, compressor, evaporator or the expansion tube is screwed you'll never be able to tell without being able to view what's going on on the high and low side simultaniously.
Good luck.
As for will the kits work from Autozone/Advance, yes, if you don't have the can tap with the low pressure hose you'll need to get one, which is supplied in the kits.
Now if the system has been opened to the air its best to vacuum it down to 20in and see if it will hold the vacuum for at least an hour or two. You can do this with a real vacuum pump if you have it or get yourself a air compressor powered one from a place like Harbor Freight tools (under $20). Drawback of the compressor operated one is that your compressor is going to run the entire time your using it. And it takes quite a while to really suck down a system, at least a good 20 minutes. Also you'll need to make adapters to go from the old R12 connection on the Harbor Freight tool.
Also if the system was opened its best to change the orifice tube. I have no idea where they hid it on the F cars, but it will be somewhere in the high pressure side of the system. Look for a connection with about a 4" straight length right after it, its probably in there.
The little gage supplied with the kits will get you in the ball park if everything else is working OK, but if the dryer, condensor, compressor, evaporator or the expansion tube is screwed you'll never be able to tell without being able to view what's going on on the high and low side simultaniously.
Good luck.
04-07-2004, 10:01 PM
#19
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Statesville NC
Posts: 1,109
the 2 once oil charge is optional IF the oil was not emptied before. it;s more of peace of mind. 2 ounces isn;t gonna make a big difference esp considering that an empty compressor needs about 9 ounces.
I say go ahead and do it. it;s not gonna hurt.
and as for vacuuming the system I agree. it;s very very important. I would SERIOSLY consider changing the reciver drier since it has been open to moisture and the pouch is probablt saturated.
how ever you manage to vacuum the system is worth it. we charge 40 bucks for a vac recharge plus teh cost of freon but you can ahve a shop just put it on a vac for you.
also. the fbodys are an expantion system so no need to look for an orifise (sp) tube. I sometimes rather work on an oriface system then an expantion system but oh well.
I say go ahead and do it. it;s not gonna hurt.
and as for vacuuming the system I agree. it;s very very important. I would SERIOSLY consider changing the reciver drier since it has been open to moisture and the pouch is probablt saturated.
how ever you manage to vacuum the system is worth it. we charge 40 bucks for a vac recharge plus teh cost of freon but you can ahve a shop just put it on a vac for you.
also. the fbodys are an expantion system so no need to look for an orifise (sp) tube. I sometimes rather work on an oriface system then an expantion system but oh well.
04-07-2004, 10:47 PM
#20
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,026
hmm...yeah i hear it's expensive to get your AC charged. I discharged mine so i could completely remove the AC condensor for my cam install...wow did that make alot more space. lucky for me, i have a connection and get me/friend's AC's charged for free!
make sure all your connections are tight. you may want to get some of that cheap autozone stuff and charge it up a bit. then spray some degreaser on the ac lines. turn on the car and run the AC. find your leaks, fix it, then find someone to charge it for you.
my ex girlfriend's 97 camaro blows warm air too. we charged it last summer but it only worked a couple weeks, never did find the leak but that has to be the problem
make sure all your connections are tight. you may want to get some of that cheap autozone stuff and charge it up a bit. then spray some degreaser on the ac lines. turn on the car and run the AC. find your leaks, fix it, then find someone to charge it for you.
my ex girlfriend's 97 camaro blows warm air too. we charged it last summer but it only worked a couple weeks, never did find the leak but that has to be the problem
04-07-2004, 10:53 PM
#22
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Statesville NC
Posts: 1,109
if everything is ready and you just need a vac recharge figure about 40-50 bucks plus freeon. 143A is usualy about 6-8 bucks a can depending.. so anywhere from about 40-60 bucks to get it done pro
04-07-2004, 10:55 PM
#23
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,026
Originally posted by Serene
Hmm so how much should I expect to pay a pro, total price, for this including the vacuum stuff? Some guy wanted like 100 dollars. I dont need the a/c that bad, ttops work fine.
Hmm so how much should I expect to pay a pro, total price, for this including the vacuum stuff? Some guy wanted like 100 dollars. I dont need the a/c that bad, ttops work fine.
04-08-2004, 05:52 AM
#24
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Point Pleasant, NJ... USA
Posts: 1,955
just do this. if it holds 2 pound.
16 ounces = 1 pound
1 can = 12 ounces (make sure thats the size can you have)
16 oz X 2 pounds = 32 ounces
32oz diveded by 12 ounces gives you 2.6666666 pounds that the system will hold.
adjust the formula as needed
_________________________
I believe that you meant 2.6666 CANS[= 2 pounds] not pounds.. [and yes, it holds 2 pounds]
Also, I got a pretty nice R134a guage set for $50-60 from Harbor Freight..
16 ounces = 1 pound
1 can = 12 ounces (make sure thats the size can you have)
16 oz X 2 pounds = 32 ounces
32oz diveded by 12 ounces gives you 2.6666666 pounds that the system will hold.
adjust the formula as needed
_________________________
I believe that you meant 2.6666 CANS[= 2 pounds] not pounds.. [and yes, it holds 2 pounds]
Also, I got a pretty nice R134a guage set for $50-60 from Harbor Freight..
04-08-2004, 11:22 AM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Statesville NC
Posts: 1,109
Originally posted by Mtrhds94Z
just do this. if it holds 2 pound.
16 ounces = 1 pound
1 can = 12 ounces (make sure thats the size can you have)
16 oz X 2 pounds = 32 ounces
32oz diveded by 12 ounces gives you 2.6666666 pounds that the system will hold.
adjust the formula as needed
_________________________
I believe that you meant 2.6666 CANS[= 2 pounds] not pounds.. [and yes, it holds 2 pounds]
just do this. if it holds 2 pound.
16 ounces = 1 pound
1 can = 12 ounces (make sure thats the size can you have)
16 oz X 2 pounds = 32 ounces
32oz diveded by 12 ounces gives you 2.6666666 pounds that the system will hold.
adjust the formula as needed
_________________________
I believe that you meant 2.6666 CANS[= 2 pounds] not pounds.. [and yes, it holds 2 pounds]
Thats exactly what I ment/ Please excuse my sleeyness at the time of my post
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