It's not a Camaro ,but it is a GM ('86 Olds 5.0)the Alt.went out so I bought a NEW one slapped it on and this is what happened,I'm stumped.

After install...
1) Alt. put out a good charge to the battery.14+volts
2) Idiot light and gauge showed NO charge.
3) If I stepped on the brake the light went out and the gauge went up slightly.
4) Now the Alts. out again,or seems to be. All wires were hooked-up,pluged in and everything appears to be ok,anyone ever have this problem,or know where,or what to check?

Thanks for suggestions.

 

No one has any ideas huh. You would think with all of these wizzs' out there someone would take a stab at it,come on guys a little help please.

 

There was a complete troubleshooting guide in either Car Craft or Chevy HiPerformance a couple of years ago. E-mail me your fax number tcfleagle@sbcglobal.net and I'll fax a copy to you. It may just take a couple of days for me to be able to get it faxed to you, as I'm not always in the office.
You will need a multimeter - try Harbor Freight for a cheap one that will do what you need

 

NovaTodd thanks,but I dont have fax. Ido have a couple of meters though ,can this info be e-mailed?

 

Let me see if I can find my scanner - if not, I'll try to post it here.

 

I'm no wiz but since nobody else has I will take a stab at it. You said you are getting 14plus volts to the battery so I am going to assume the alt is good. I would start by checking any and all connections from battery (terminals included) to wherever the main harness gets it's power from...GM so possibly the starter or just a terminal block on a firewall...and all the ground connections for corrosion or loose connections. I would also put a meter on the battery terminals and watch it while someone steps on the brake since you reported strange things when doing so. Hope this helps in some way, just very basic stuff to check but I have seen many electrical problems fixed by cleaning/tightening or replacing old and corroded wiring and connections.

 

Almost forgot, I would also make sure the battery has a full charge and then take it somewhere that can test it for you.

 

This is from the August 2001 issue of Car Craft

Battery discharges while cruising down the highway:
1) Start the engine and bring RPM up to highway cruise speed. Check voltage across the battery posts. 13.6-14.6 volts: Go to step 2, Under 13 volts: Go to step 3, Over 15 volts: Go to step 6.
2) Turn on all accessories including the heater or air conditioning blower, electric fans, stereo, head lights – including high beams, and turn signals. Immediate under 13 volt reading: Go to step 3. Voltage slowly decreases from step 1: Go to step 4.
3) Connect the voltmeter between the alternator’s output terminal (BAT) and ground. Test like step 2. 13.6-14.6 volts – The alternator is OK. Power from the alternator is not getting to the battery. Go to step 4. Under 13.6 volts: Go to step 5. Over 15 volts: Go to step 6
4) Check the battery cables and alternator charge wire for bad connections, improper wire size, or corrosion. Repair or replace as required. Repeat test from step #2. 13.6-14.6 volts – Stop – the problem is fixed. Initial 13.6-14.6 volt reading but slowly decreases: Go to step 5
5) Check the alternator drivebelt. Adjust tension or replace as needed. Make sure pulley ratio is correct (3:1 – crank pulley = 3 times alternator) Repeat test from step #2::::Steady 13.6-14.6 volts: Stop – the problem is fixed. Initial 13.6-14.6 volts but slowly decreases: Alternator can’t keep up with current demand. Upgrade to a higher output alternator. Immediate under 13.6 volts: Go to step 6
6) Bypass the voltage regulator – Is the regulator internal or external
Internal regulator – Go to step #8
External regulator – Go to step #7
7) Unplug the harness from the voltage regulator. With the engine running, connect a jumper wire from the connectors B+ terminal to the connector’s Field terminal (On GM these are the red and blue wires). DO NOT DO THIS FOR MORE THAN 30 SECONDS AT A TIME
Result: expect to see an arc ( Don’t worry - this is not a short to ground) The alternator should make an audible whir and ramp up to maximum output. Arc: Repair or Replace the regulator- NO ARC –Open field circuit or worn out alternator brushes: Repair as required
8) Late model GM CS alternators o not have serviceable regulators; the entire unit must be replaced. On GM SI alternators, with the voltmeter hooked to the alternator BAT terminal, use a screwdriver or similar tool to ground the small tab inside the D-shaped hole in the back of the alternator
Voltage is higher than before: Repair or replace the regulator
Voltage is lower than before: Repair or replace the alternator.