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air from vents is only luke-warm instead of hot - any ideas?

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Old Apr 27, 2004 | 10:00 AM
  #1  
Brundle's Avatar
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From: Whitby, Ontario, Canada
air from vents is only luke-warm instead of hot - any ideas?

well, as the description says, my dashboard vents are only putting out luke warm air when the fans are turned up to make and temperature control is on the full hot setting. b4 any one suggests, i know that my blower motor is good, and almost positive my heater core is fine.

i did some work on the cooling system over the winter when it was stored: rad was taken out, new inlet tank put on, tb bypass, and coolant refilled. everthing though would indicate my coolin system is fine though: comes up to proper running temp and never overheats.

would any of this cooling system stuff have anything to do with it? if not, any other suggestions? there was a lot of other things done to it during the winter, but it was mostly all work in the rear end. so i dont see how i could have messed something up with the heater. it was working fine last summer.

TIA,
Ryan
Old Apr 27, 2004 | 11:04 AM
  #2  
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From: PA
Normal operating temp being ~ 170 with the 160 degree stat versus 190 with the 180 stat right. Did you just put the 160 stat in? If it is cool outside(canada) that 20 degrees of coolant temp difference has a significant impact on what will actually blow into the cabin. What your describing to me sounds like it may be within the normal range for someone running a 160 degree stat.

-brent
Old Apr 27, 2004 | 04:12 PM
  #3  
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From: North Augusta, S.C.
A fairly common problem amongst our cars is that the heater core has a tendency to get clogged. Pull the inlet and outlet hoses to the heater core and flush with a garden hose. Make sure to flush and backflush.
Old Apr 27, 2004 | 10:30 PM
  #4  
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Originally posted by RENE95Z
A fairly common problem amongst our cars is that the heater core has a tendency to get clogged. Pull the inlet and outlet hoses to the heater core and flush with a garden hose. Make sure to flush and backflush.
Thats exactly what mine was doing, luke warm air with temp all the way hot and fan on all the way...blower motor was fine. I did a heater core flush and now it blows HOT!

Check out the thread about it that I started here...good info on flushing.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=191218
Old Apr 28, 2004 | 01:20 AM
  #5  
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From: Valdosta, GA
also check the water level in your car. when i first got my car the heat never got hot, and the water level was down on the car. filled it up and it works fine. although i have noticed that my car only runs about 160-170 degress w/ the normal thermostat in it. i dont' believe thats normal but i'm not sure. l8tr
Old Apr 28, 2004 | 09:42 AM
  #6  
Brundle's Avatar
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From: Whitby, Ontario, Canada
First of all, thanks for all the input guys.

94formulabz - yes, i did think of the possiblity of the hypertech stat being a prob and had already put my stock one back in, just in case. cause as you stated the daily temp up here isnt that high yet

sick94 - i had been keeping an eye on the water level since i had put my car back on the road and it was sittin right where its supposed to.

I think i'm gonna try the flush the heater core this weekend cause it does sound like the likely culprit. My dad actually did suggest this to me cause he works for a heating and air conditioning company and said that it was possible that it was clogged. Guess i shoulda listened to him. i'll never hear the end of that now. haha

I think the reason why it did get clogged is cause when i drained the coolant during the winter, only the rad was drained and not the block, so i have half new/half old coolant in it. unfortunately i wasnt able to get the block plug or knock sensor off to drain the block and i was limited on time so i had to just fill the coolant up and get it outta storage.

I just have a few last questions about the flushing method that AsianSensation described in the linked post below. Hope these dont sound too stupid but i just need some things clarified:

1. Does this push the coolant out through the block? (cause i'll need to know how much coolant to have on hand if it does) i'm pretty sure the total capacity is something like 14.5L)
2. Does the stat housing top have to be off as well to do this or is that optional?
3. in the final step of his procedure, he said fill rad, heat and bleed? i assume by bleed, he was referring to bleeding the air out via the vent nozzles?

Sorry if the questions seem kinda silly, just this is my first f-body with reverse cooling and i'm still a little unsure on these things.

Thanks again,
Ryan
Old Apr 28, 2004 | 11:33 PM
  #7  
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From: North Augusta, S.C.
Originally posted by Brundle
1. Does this push the coolant out through the block? (cause i'll need to know how much coolant to have on hand if it does) i'm pretty sure the total capacity is something like 14.5L)
2. Does the stat housing top have to be off as well to do this or is that optional?
3. in the final step of his procedure, he said fill rad, heat and bleed? i assume by bleed, he was referring to bleeding the air out via the vent nozzles?
1. No. Actually, disconnect the hoses at the firewall where it actually connects to the heater core. Shouldn't lose that much coolant at all.

2. No. Follow number one above.

3. Yes.
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