Advice buying an 88' IROC
Registered User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 344
From: Fort Atkinson, WI
Re: Advice buying an 88' IROC
If the car was say 2-5 years old there may have been common problems to talk about. Since the car is 22 going on 23 years old, almost every thing seems to be a problem as things get old.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2
Re: Advice buying an 88' IROC
Um....yeah....well I figured that would probably be the answer. I was just wondering if there were any major things I should look for. Well, I guess quite a few normal things with a car this age are pretty major.
BBOMG Organizer
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 520
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Re: Advice buying an 88' IROC
I have a couple and have had many so this is from experience:
Valve seals - start the car when the engine has been sitting for 48 hrs. The valve seals used in these cars were prone to becoming brittle with age, causing it to break off the valve stem. What happens is you get a big puff of blue smoke when you start it when it has been sitting for a while. It's an easy fix but will cost you money.
Dash - Both the instrument panel and dash pad are very prone to cracking. More of a cosmetic thing than anything.
Drivers seat - Finding an Iroc with the drivers seat material not worn is like finding a 4 leaf clover.
Rust - the underneath of the car will tell you everything you need to know.
T-roof leaking - 50/50 chance. Take the car through a touchless car wash to see if it passes the "water blast" test.
Switches - They are all pretty cheap and I have had to change at least one in every 3rd (and 4th) gen I've ever owned. Test them all, including the rear hatch.
Rear hatch pull down - open up the hatch using the key and then make sure the auto pull-down comes up. Close the hatch and make sure it pulls it down.
Drivetrain/exhaust - if not messed with, it's very reliable. Only issues I've had is with clogged catalytic converters, failed fuel pumps, clogged fuel filters and ignition control modules. Most of this stuff was due to poor maintenance or the car sitting around forever.
They are not the fastest cars out there but boy are they fun!
Valve seals - start the car when the engine has been sitting for 48 hrs. The valve seals used in these cars were prone to becoming brittle with age, causing it to break off the valve stem. What happens is you get a big puff of blue smoke when you start it when it has been sitting for a while. It's an easy fix but will cost you money.
Dash - Both the instrument panel and dash pad are very prone to cracking. More of a cosmetic thing than anything.
Drivers seat - Finding an Iroc with the drivers seat material not worn is like finding a 4 leaf clover.
Rust - the underneath of the car will tell you everything you need to know.
T-roof leaking - 50/50 chance. Take the car through a touchless car wash to see if it passes the "water blast" test.
Switches - They are all pretty cheap and I have had to change at least one in every 3rd (and 4th) gen I've ever owned. Test them all, including the rear hatch.
Rear hatch pull down - open up the hatch using the key and then make sure the auto pull-down comes up. Close the hatch and make sure it pulls it down.
Drivetrain/exhaust - if not messed with, it's very reliable. Only issues I've had is with clogged catalytic converters, failed fuel pumps, clogged fuel filters and ignition control modules. Most of this stuff was due to poor maintenance or the car sitting around forever.
They are not the fastest cars out there but boy are they fun!
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,768
From: Friendswood, TX, USA
Re: Advice buying an 88' IROC
I have a couple and have had many so this is from experience:
Valve seals - start the car when the engine has been sitting for 48 hrs. The valve seals used in these cars were prone to becoming brittle with age, causing it to break off the valve stem. What happens is you get a big puff of blue smoke when you start it when it has been sitting for a while. It's an easy fix but will cost you money.
Dash - Both the instrument panel and dash pad are very prone to cracking. More of a cosmetic thing than anything.
Drivers seat - Finding an Iroc with the drivers seat material not worn is like finding a 4 leaf clover.
Rust - the underneath of the car will tell you everything you need to know.
T-roof leaking - 50/50 chance. Take the car through a touchless car wash to see if it passes the "water blast" test.
Switches - They are all pretty cheap and I have had to change at least one in every 3rd (and 4th) gen I've ever owned. Test them all, including the rear hatch.
Rear hatch pull down - open up the hatch using the key and then make sure the auto pull-down comes up. Close the hatch and make sure it pulls it down.
Drivetrain/exhaust - if not messed with, it's very reliable. Only issues I've had is with clogged catalytic converters, failed fuel pumps, clogged fuel filters and ignition control modules. Most of this stuff was due to poor maintenance or the car sitting around forever.
They are not the fastest cars out there but boy are they fun!
Valve seals - start the car when the engine has been sitting for 48 hrs. The valve seals used in these cars were prone to becoming brittle with age, causing it to break off the valve stem. What happens is you get a big puff of blue smoke when you start it when it has been sitting for a while. It's an easy fix but will cost you money.
Dash - Both the instrument panel and dash pad are very prone to cracking. More of a cosmetic thing than anything.
Drivers seat - Finding an Iroc with the drivers seat material not worn is like finding a 4 leaf clover.
Rust - the underneath of the car will tell you everything you need to know.
T-roof leaking - 50/50 chance. Take the car through a touchless car wash to see if it passes the "water blast" test.
Switches - They are all pretty cheap and I have had to change at least one in every 3rd (and 4th) gen I've ever owned. Test them all, including the rear hatch.
Rear hatch pull down - open up the hatch using the key and then make sure the auto pull-down comes up. Close the hatch and make sure it pulls it down.
Drivetrain/exhaust - if not messed with, it's very reliable. Only issues I've had is with clogged catalytic converters, failed fuel pumps, clogged fuel filters and ignition control modules. Most of this stuff was due to poor maintenance or the car sitting around forever.
They are not the fastest cars out there but boy are they fun!
Registered User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 344
From: Fort Atkinson, WI
Re: Advice buying an 88' IROC
I have a couple and have had many so this is from experience:
Valve seals - start the car when the engine has been sitting for 48 hrs. The valve seals used in these cars were prone to becoming brittle with age, causing it to break off the valve stem. What happens is you get a big puff of blue smoke when you start it when it has been sitting for a while. It's an easy fix but will cost you money.
Dash - Both the instrument panel and dash pad are very prone to cracking. More of a cosmetic thing than anything.
Drivers seat - Finding an Iroc with the drivers seat material not worn is like finding a 4 leaf clover.
Rust - the underneath of the car will tell you everything you need to know.
T-roof leaking - 50/50 chance. Take the car through a touchless car wash to see if it passes the "water blast" test.
Switches - They are all pretty cheap and I have had to change at least one in every 3rd (and 4th) gen I've ever owned. Test them all, including the rear hatch.
Rear hatch pull down - open up the hatch using the key and then make sure the auto pull-down comes up. Close the hatch and make sure it pulls it down.
Drivetrain/exhaust - if not messed with, it's very reliable. Only issues I've had is with clogged catalytic converters, failed fuel pumps, clogged fuel filters and ignition control modules. Most of this stuff was due to poor maintenance or the car sitting around forever.
They are not the fastest cars out there but boy are they fun!
Valve seals - start the car when the engine has been sitting for 48 hrs. The valve seals used in these cars were prone to becoming brittle with age, causing it to break off the valve stem. What happens is you get a big puff of blue smoke when you start it when it has been sitting for a while. It's an easy fix but will cost you money.
Dash - Both the instrument panel and dash pad are very prone to cracking. More of a cosmetic thing than anything.
Drivers seat - Finding an Iroc with the drivers seat material not worn is like finding a 4 leaf clover.
Rust - the underneath of the car will tell you everything you need to know.
T-roof leaking - 50/50 chance. Take the car through a touchless car wash to see if it passes the "water blast" test.
Switches - They are all pretty cheap and I have had to change at least one in every 3rd (and 4th) gen I've ever owned. Test them all, including the rear hatch.
Rear hatch pull down - open up the hatch using the key and then make sure the auto pull-down comes up. Close the hatch and make sure it pulls it down.
Drivetrain/exhaust - if not messed with, it's very reliable. Only issues I've had is with clogged catalytic converters, failed fuel pumps, clogged fuel filters and ignition control modules. Most of this stuff was due to poor maintenance or the car sitting around forever.
They are not the fastest cars out there but boy are they fun!
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